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Old 11-13-2011, 12:14 AM
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removing rust from car frame

Hey everyone, I just got done sandblasting underneath my car. I bought a 1972 monte carlo as a low budget build up car. I did the body work myself learning the hard way. I had the car painted real nice for 3000k. I decided i wanted to replace the fuel tank and rebuild the rear end. I decided the underneath didn't look good enough to put new parts on. This is where the low budget turns into the show car. I looked online to figure out if i could use rust remover in a liquid or gel. I decided not to deal with chemical smells. I bought a electric angle grinder and a 60 gritt sander wheel attachment and knock off the surface rust and realized the frame had a good amout of pitts in it. Then i decided to get a small 30 gallon compressor and got a small portable handy blaster i borrowed from a freind. I bought some play sand from home depot.I used a mask and blasted the rearend outside in the driveway with the wind behind my back. It did a ok job for the very light surface rust on the housing,but then i read where play sand is dangerous. I always wanted a 60 gallon compressor and i figured this would push me to get one. I researched online about compressors and hookup plumbing.I started from scratch and struggled to figure alot out. I write to this forum for the next guy who types in google search, removing rust from a car frame. So here it what i did and what i bought to do the job right.It is a one time deal for me, so i tried to save alittle money going with a entry level husky 3.2 60 gallon compressor. I am done with the miserable task now. I will post some pics once i get the media blast out of my garage,eyes, ears,nose,everywhere.Here is the basic procedure i took to do this project. I will break it done to what i bought to do this,First of all take care of the underneath before you paint the top.Secound, if you plan to really restore a car and have the money and space, then take the body off and send the frame out to be blasted and primed and painted.

1) 3.2 husky 60 gallon compressor (439.00), buy bigger if money isnt a problem.Atleast step up to the $799 model if you plan on doing more then one project like this. 10 cfm is the mininum i've seen you need. Mine did the job perfectly.Under a car your only going to want too spend 15 minutes at a time under there anyways.

2)plumbing: you will need to reduce the hole out the compressor from 3/4 to 1/2 or down to 3/8th if that what you want to do. Then you run a 1/2 in dia. piece of black pipe about 2 to 3 inches, from reducer to a 1/2 inch shut off valve. From the shut off valve you run a 1/2 inch dia lead out hose thats 2 foot long or longer. Then you connect that lead out hose to a 1/2 inch air regulator/water fiter. From the air regulator/ water filter exit out, you run 1/2 diameter air house. i used a 50 foot long one.At the end of the 1/2 air hose i used a reducer to 3/8 th size,Then i connected a 3/8th shut off valve for easy on and off at the blaster, after the shut off valve i ran a 2 foot long 3/8 leader hose, sometimes called a whip hose, which allows for more flexablity. i ran a coupler at the end of leader hose and connected to the media blaster.

3) 100 lbs media blaster, i bought a 90 lbs blaster for 89 bucks at habor freight, It was being clearenced and ii had a coupon to get 20 percent off. you can buy online most everything you need.Buy the media locally at a tractor supply company or something like that(save on shipping becuase of weight). Great tip: if no media is coming out of handle, shut off the air supply going from the water filter on the media blaster to the tank, pull deadman handle and directing media into the blast area until a flow of media pours out , then turn the air back on that goes to the blaster tank.Also,If your sound turns from loud to alot louder like a air line breaks on you, then you are out of media in the tank.Also sometimes it will start out as a big flow of media with no pressure at very first, then the pressure kicks in and give you good blasting. I used a small trash can next to me to blast into , when the media was just pouring out with no air behind it.helps with the mess and recovering media.

4) Media, Dont use playsand , it is dangerous. I used 70 gritt aluminum oxcide for 40 bucks for 45 pounds. It more exspensive then what i,ve seen people say they buy coal slag or black diamond for, it was just easy to buy at Habor freight since i was there and got a killer deal on blaster anyways. I bought four containers of it.I went back and got four more containers once i wore out my first deadmans valve handle tip. I bought 3 extra packs of ceramic nozzles too, i used the next to smallest size after i got a hang of it. I ran my compressor alittle more ,but i got alot more done in a shorter time. the smallest nozzle won't run the compressor as much, but it will take longer with a smaller blasting pattern.I paid 30 bucks for 80 pounds of coal slag, but it was course gritt and was clogging up the nozzles, Iwould have had to use big nozzles and a much bigger compressor cfm level. I recycled the first 4 bouckets of media 3 or 4 times, and recovered most all of it.

5) blasting hood, A white hood came with the kit for the media blaster.It works ok if you are doing some outside standing up work. Buy the red one from Northern tool or Eastwood. I got two hoods and 6 extra lenses to make the job easier. Great tip: wrap sarahn wrap on the outside of the lens that get the media on it, slide it into the hood. On the outside only, place duck tape on the edge of the lens where media can get inside of hood also. Don't put masking tape on inside of lens, The masking tape glue destroys the lens.Shake the hood real good after blasting to get media and dust off it. Helps with keeping media getting into eyes when putting hood on.I rinsed my eyes out with contact lens solution. Get the media out of your eyes asap.

6) Gloves and painters suit: I bought some nice ones that fit my slightly larger hand through Northern tool, they were 11 inch long, I also got a 18 inch pair, which worked great for pulling up tarps for media recovery. The blue painters suit at home depot is 9 bucks, I am 6ft1 tall is fitted ok, But if i tried to put the blue suit hood on and get under the car it made the suit too tight. I tucked the blue suit hood inside the suit.After i would blast i would take suit off and shake alot to get media dust off. i went through 4 or more suits.

7) List of parts prices so you know what your getting into.
1) air compressor, entry level 60 gallon 439.00
2) plumbing , reducer for exit hole in compressor 3/4 to 1/2 inch 5.00
2a)1/2 inch dia. black pipe either 2 or 3 inches long 1.00
2b) 1/2 inch shut off valve from depot or habor freight 5.00
2c) 1/2 lead out house around 2 feet long at habor freight 5.00
2d) 1/2 inch air regulator/ water filter combination 29.00
2e) 1/2 inch dia. air hose 50 foot long or whatever u want to do 35.00
2f) 1/2 inch reducer to 3/8 for however you want to hook up 5.00
2g) 3/8th whip hose for flexabilty 29.00
3) 90 lbs media blaster or 110 blaster kit 89.00-129.00
4) extra deadman valve and ceramic nozzles 3 packs 42.00
5) Media( 70 gritt) 45 lbs each times 4 @ 40 each 160.00
6) Northern tool red blasting hood with 4 extra lenses 52.00
7) respirator mask pn 100 filtering 38.00
8) rubber gloves and blue painter suits 4 suits @9 each 50.00
9) tarps and painters drop plastic 3 tarps 9x11 @ 7 each 30.00

8) chemicals for prepping , priming, painting: I bought everything from master series paint products. They seem to be easier to work with then por-15 and half the price. I did my rear end and it turn out super nice.The metal prep solution for use before priming etches the metal and conditions the metal has very toxic fumes, wear a mask. Primer is ok , no mask needed, paint was toxic so wear mask. www.masterseriescoatings.com .Dont bother with anyother stuff really, i have read up on all of them and this is the best price and easy to apply and work with.

9) Paint brushes , rollers ,foam brushes blue rubber gloves ,blue tape,
duck tape.thread tape.

10) patience , dont rush, take a break if you sweat alot or get mad. be creative building a plastic coccoon around the car. One side of the car was parked two feet from the garage wall, I put picture hanger hooks into dry wall and hung the plastic 6 feet tall and drapped it to the roof of car and ducked taped. Drivers side i parked my other 1972 monte carlo two feet away and taped plastic from roof to roof and created a tunnel.A wood frame stucture can be build to get a coccoon built.

11) i do this to save the next guy weeks of reseach and having headaces trying to figure this out from not knowing anything about compressors and media blasting.This is the only website i learned enough to get started. Still there was the basic info that was missing and i feel really relieved i never have to do this again. Everyone else can fill in anything i left out or tips that would help. i covered the basics and spent a hour writing this, Take care all

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Old 11-13-2011, 04:50 PM
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All I can say is wow. My Ranger is all rusted up underneath and I thought I would do it. Now I think too much work .
Great post and I will use it if I get into another project.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:36 PM
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Well i aslo for got to say a 60 gallon compressor has to be hard wired into you panel box, or a 220 outlet needs to be installed.My little house has a small panel and was told i couldn't wire into it. Luckly my washer and dryer are in the garage on the other side of the garage. I ran a 220 wire across through some pvc pipe 25 foot wire was 50 bucks, then i installed a dryer plug onto the 220 wire and plugged it into my dryer outlet.Just can use compressor and dryer at same time. The prep and clean up is what is the worse of the job of the job.I didn't make the coccoon super sealed tight, and i would get a fair amount of dust storm in the garage.I stuffed trash bags in the engine compartment to help from dust exiting. I did want some venting anyways so i could see underneath. This is not a job for someone with little patience lol
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:59 AM
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pictures of end result

Here are a few pictures, Engine area wasn't too bad afterwards.I have seen cars for sale online that have had dirtier engine bays haha. These pictures are after i have primed frame with the silver primer. The frame was the same color before the primer was put on. This frame looked terrible before i blasted. There are pits still left in some areas. it is not a concorse frame off restore. If you have any questions on helping you get this project done, just send me a email, or reply to thread
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob
All I can say is wow. My Ranger is all rusted up underneath and I thought I would do it. Now I think too much work .
Great post and I will use it if I get into another project.
not too mention all the time it'll take getting all the media cleaned up from inside the car, trim mouldings, trunk ,etc... then the expence of replacing the bearings and gears in the rear end a few weeks later and the drums or rotors,motor etc...that media will get into every tiny little hole and wreak havoc.....Oh and dont forget wreaking the car when you turn the defrosters on driving down the road and media blows everywhere blinding you...
You want to think twice on blasting a car that your driving....
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:10 AM
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Yeah media gets everywhere, thats why you have to seal wrap a car that is a frame up restore. Or buy one already frame off, unless you have the money time and space for frame off. Took me about three hours to completley seal my car off every inch with blue tape. i used duck tape on the edges of panels at bottom , where the blasting would be. I plan on completly removing the rest of my old interior and replacing it. Prep for this job is as big as the job itself. If you don't have the time, don't bother with this kind of job. Here is a example of wraping your car completly. I had rewraped my car twice. I was worried about my paint halfway. The paint was perfect. More pictures to come
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:21 AM
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Ok i am done blasting, priming, painting underneath. Took 3 months of my free time on the weekends. It took many many hours just to prime and paint.Atleast my nice paint is still nice on top and the underneath looks as good as the top of the car. Clean up time, that is the winter project.The nightmare is over, your turn , if you dare to enter the dust zone. Only the crazy survive!!!!
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:29 AM
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wow, lots of work, but it looks pretty dang nice under there
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:59 AM
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montecarloman454 great thread.
The Mastercoat Chassis Coating you used is it similar to POR15? I’m getting my frame sandblasted and am wondering if I can use it over bear metal OR do I need to use the silver primer first like you did OR can I just spray my bare sandblasted frame with the Black Chassis Topcoat? I was originally planning to use PLC primer then spray it with Polyurethane paint. It would be a lot simpler to put “mastercoat” right on the frame. Does “mastercoat” give a harder chip free finish? thanks
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamothe1
montecarloman454 great thread.
The Mastercoat Chassis Coating you used is it similar to POR15? I’m getting my frame sandblasted and am wondering if I can use it over bear metal OR do I need to use the silver primer first like you did OR can I just spray my bare sandblasted frame with the Black Chassis Topcoat? I was originally planning to use PLC primer then spray it with Polyurethane paint. It would be a lot simpler to put “mastercoat” right on the frame. Does “mastercoat” give a harder chip free finish? thanks

Use epoxy primer on the bare metal no matter what the topcoat.
I would keep away from the POR 15 type stuff.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:13 PM
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I don't have my data sheet on the black paint in front of me.The website has most all the info on all the products. The black paint data sheet window on the website is messed up. I will tell you what it says once i have the data sheet in front of me.I know the website says for best results apply the silver primer.They sell a eitching metal prep that degreases and etches the metal before you prime or paint. Just email them your question and i,m sure they will answer it. 1 quart of silver covered alot.I primed the rear housing with two coats and primed 85 percent of the frame and floorpans from rear area under trunk lid all the way up to the cowl area and stopped where the motor mounts are on the frame. 2 quarts of the chasis black covered what i primed. They say you have to wear a fresh air mask to spray the paint. i used mini 4 inch soft foam rollers to get the paint on the metal, flat open areas i used a regular brissle paint brush to feather out the paint i rolled onto the area. small sponge foam applicator to get into tight areas. I sprayed inside the frame with the eastwood internal frame ecaspuletor. As far as chipping, it seems very durable. Seems like its just easier to work with then por-15 and half the cost. i am happy with the results. The pictures don't do justicce to the gloss black shine, but no ones going to being seeing under the car anyways right lol
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:59 PM
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It says on the data sheet that the black can be applied directly onto sandblasted metal. Also it can be painted over top of rust. I would deffintly would want to put primer on first. Email the company. paint is very durable. i had some paint drips on the rear housing. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to chip off the drip. Even after i chipped off the paint drip, there is paint still there, so i didn;t have to touch up. I am pretty sure you can smack the frame with a hammer after being painted, and the paint won't come off. this is tractor paint type of paint. This primer and paint is for oil rig platforms and bridges. you want the oem restoration, then use what the factory used. my frame was pretty rusty looking aand even after sandblasting, my frame had pitts left over. The price is what i liked about this. Also it seems like easier prep and heard some complaints out there with por-15 with smooth surfaces.Think por-15 is more for rusted surfaces. I researched online for two weeks until came across masterseries paints. Here is what the data sheet says about prep for new metal surfaces. ( Nw metalshould be sandblasted for optimum adhesion. th is to provide an anchor pattern and to remove mill scale from hot rolled steel,where sandblasting can not be done , the use of an add based metal prep is recommended. scuff new metal with 220 grit sandpaper to ensure maximum adhesion.)
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:18 PM
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thanks, i'm looking into it on the masterseriescoatings.com web site.
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