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Removing rust from flywheel

34K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  PHWOARchild 
#1 ·
Looking for some thoughts on removing rust from a flywheel. I got the engine in a new project. I'm almost ready to bolt the trany on. I'd rather not remove the flywheel to have it machined.
I've considered hand sanding, but wanted to get some thoughts before I make it worst.
Thanks.
 

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#2 ·
Hand sanding with a sanding block, ScotchBrite, or with a Dual Action Orbital air or electric sander will all work. If you use a powered sander don't apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do the work, change the paper several times , don't try to do the job with just one sheet or disc.

You could also fire the engine and use Scotch-Brite on the spinning flywheel,,,, but watch out for those dowel pins if you do that.

Doesn't have to be perfect shiny bare metal, just get the rough stuff off so that it is not gritty anymore, so that you don't embed a bunch of rust in the new clutch disc.

Another alternative, recommended to me years ago by CenterForce, is to bead blast or sandblast the flywheel. It gives a great break-in surface for the new clutch disc, especially if you want to install a new clutch and go right to the track the next day. Recommended also after turning a used flywheel on the lathe to take down the micro torn surface peaks left by the lathe tool.

I almost forgot, a wire wheel on a die grinder or 4-1/2" angle grinder will also do a fine job.
 
#3 ·
if you use any abrasives... sand paper.. scotch bright pads.. please protect the bore of the pilot bearing..

please also cover the oil pressure openings on the top of the block.. the distributor opening and the carb or intake openings.. one grain of abrasive can do massive damage.

shop towel.. wd 40.. followed by brake cleaner and a different shop towel..

if you don't get the rust off.. at least the surface where the clutch material touches.. the rust will embed in the clutch disc and cause havoc for many many miles.

getting the surface rust off is the important thing..
 
#6 ·
I was having mine resurfaced anyway, so I didn't touch the friction surface at all. Cast iron cleans up real fast. I was going to drop it into my citric acid tank if it took any effort. After I flipped the ring, I painted it with some Rustoleum matte black I had laying around.
 
#8 ·
This engine has already caused a late night run to the emergency room. Those head gaskets really do have sharp edges!!!! Since I've used up my self imposed quota of one ER visit per rebuild, I don't think I'll try the running engine technique.

I'll go from the least abrasive and work my way up, staying away from power sanders if at all possible.
I'll start with scotch bright and see where it goes. Will post pictures in a day or so.

Thanks.
 
#10 ·
That's really preetty clean, doing nothing wouldn't be any harm. But if it were mine and I wanted it spiffy, I'd find a shop that can glass bead parts I'd let them clean it up that puts a clean, dry surface on everything, it would look really good. Then put some paint on the areas where the clutch disk doesn't contact.

Bogie
 
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