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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2003, 07:01 AM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar Moderator
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"Rouges" come in a variety of colors and they specify the coarseness of the grit. Here is the order from coarse to fine.
  • Grey
  • Brown
  • Green
  • Red
  • Yellow
  • White

For hard metals like stainless you can start at green or brown to get a high polish, you may find that green is all you need. I repair surgical instruments and all I use for a mirror polish on stainless is green compound on a cotton buff. Scratches may need some 500 grit sandpaper first to remove them.

“She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself.”

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Old 12-07-2004, 07:46 AM
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scratch removal kit

This company offers a do-it-yourself kit that removes scrathes from brushed stainless steel. I hope this helps. It worked for me
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:16 AM
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Westlake, Ace, Walmart, Tractor supply. and lots of other places sell what you need.

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Old 12-08-2004, 05:23 PM
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Forhet the jeweler and forget the jewelers rouge. You will need a stick of the buffing compound that Chuck is talking about or what Eastwood sells. To buff the stainless to a high luster is going to take more than just rubbing it by hand. You will have to get a motor if you don't have one and rig up a buffing wheel. Eastwood will have those also or check with someone like Graingers. Also when you buff it you will want to go the length of the mouldings. It's a simple process but will take some time. We buff stainless and aluminum at work all the time. One thing to do is make sure you wear a mask as buffing is a dirty job and there will be quite a bit of airborne particles.
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:04 PM
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Polishing SS trim is a big part of my job at the restoration shop.
I have found it to be very labor intensive and time consuming.
Dependent upon how badly ss is scratched I will:
80 grit on the D/A
280 wet
400 wet
600 wet
800 wet
100 wet
1500 wet
Then Eastwoods SS buffing compound on a buffer.
Start with the highest grit you think will get out the scratches, and then progress up to 1500.
If someone else has a quicker/better solution, I'd love to hear about it.
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Old 12-11-2004, 08:21 PM
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polishing stainless steel

I am a metal polisher. Tarheel Parts,Bright Works,Global Products
are product suppliers for professional metal polishing. Stainless
steel requires 7 steps. Sanding is performed with emery grain
coated pads using tallow grease to lubricate.There are 4 grits normally used, 80,120,180,240. Polishing is a sanding process before buffing. Buffing on stainless steel starts with a Sisal pad(made from woven rope mat).These pads are aggressive enough to remove minor flaws without sanding. Stainless steel compound is black and must be used(do not use jewelers rouge(for gold and silver) or tripoli (for aluminum) or green compound(used to buff plastic)). Now switch to a spiral buff (stitches from the center out(50/50(polyester/cotton)) using the same black stainless steel remove the scratches applied by the sisal pad. Your last step is to color the metal using a loose buff(stitches only in the middle)and a white compound called color. There are hundreds of different grades for each compound. I have polished
complete corvette suspensions(84 to present)systems and thousands of other parts, even the inside of rims or your intake
manifold or anything else made from metal
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