? on removing wish bone yoke pin that goes through I beam 37 ford - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:03 PM
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? on removing wish bone yoke pin that goes through I beam 37 ford

sunday night.....need some help here ....i noticed that the bolt that attaches the wish bone to the front I beam and is used to mount the shock absorber on has about 1/16 of play in it and will not tighten up and I can not push it out......i have it soaking in PB blaster at the moment.... i am assuming its just rusted in place at the moment and soaking it will free it up. so the I beam actually has about 1/16 of play inside of the wish bone.


monday night...ok tonights work.... i took the lower bar off of the shop press, set it on some bricks wrapped chain around the axle and the bar off of the shop press and placed a 6 ton bottle jack in between.......its crude but its applying pressure constant and steady.....i will use penetrant each night and morning and keep pressure on unitl the weekend....then if it hasnt loosened up i will get out the torch and apply some heat and see what happens..it is definitely stuck inthe axle i have 3mm of gap up top and 2mm of gap between the axle and lower wish bone.

weds night....took a different approach tonight and removed the bottle jack and put the castle nut back on and tightened it down as much as i could....it seated the squared top of the bolt against the top of the yoke and tightened the bottom of the yoke to the i beam axle.....the top of the I beam axle to the bottom of the yoke has .053 gap.....i am still letting it soak. tomorrow night i think it will hit it with the impact hammer and see what constant vibrations do to it....how much do the yoke ends of the wish bone close up? assuming i get the bolt out will tightening it down close the gap? any thoughts? thks bob









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Old 02-09-2011, 10:46 PM
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these are almost always a PITA! my rule of thumb is that if i cant get it to budge inside 20 min, with using a torch and a press, i cut the top and bottom off and drill from each side. with good drill bits, it should only take you about a half hour, go in intervals. start out with 1/4" bit.

tightening it should close the gap.

wheres your spring bushings?
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:14 AM
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Probably corroded in place... use a rosebud torch and get hold of the top of the pin with a big pipe wrench and give it a twist..once the corosion is broken it will come right out..there are replacements for those pins so not to worry too much about damage..

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Old 02-10-2011, 08:43 AM
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thks guys.... the spring shackles are new from MACs and you see the steel bushing in the picture, the stud is inside the steel bushing and is in some sort of hard rubber.... i soaked it up this AM before i went to work. i will try the heat and press and the pipe wrench this weekend. when you drill it out do you leave the axle in place? or do you drop it? I have to look at this again but I think i could leave it in place.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:36 AM
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ive always had them out of the car when i drilled them, but that does not mean you cant leave the axle in. just be more of a pita im thinkin...
good luck
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:06 PM
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well i was playing around with options tonight......and i made the shim that i want to use and just for fun i tried fitting it with the perch pin in place to see if i had enough stock showing to weld the piece i had to cut out of it back in to it..... i had my son on a 4' long crow bar opening up the gap and i used the wee persuader to coax it into the gap. not sure if the pictures show the detail or not but the top of the perch pin is squarely seated on the top of the yoke there is no gap what so ever. in real life i have enough space to use the mig welder and weld the cut out piece back to the rest of the shim. i am going to sleep on this overnight before i decide on my next step....








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Old 02-11-2011, 07:59 AM
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morning update....i think i am going to search for stock inexpensive perch pins and once i have those in my possession i will use heat and a press and try and get it out and if it doesnt work i will cut it and drill it out.....but until then i will just mig weld that piece of the washer back in place to capture the shim. and move on to the next project. who knows how long the car was driven like this maybe 70 yrs? so i am not to worried about the world ending with this temporary repair.
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:58 PM
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and now we move one step closer to finishing the job. welding the spacer together turned out well its hard to see in the picture but it looks nice in person,.
installed the new drag link and the new ball joints on the other draglink and installed with anti sieze.
i have to find a torque spec for the ball joint bolts, any body know it off hand? we are at 35-40 ftlbs now. taking a break and will go out later this afternoon and regrease the wheel bearings and put the backing plates back on.









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