[ws6 beat]

First let me introduce myself. My name is Moses and I'm from Los Angeles California. This car is a 1996 ws6 trans am and it was the first car i bought. not my first car, that was an 87 rs camaro. I was 19 and a freshman in college. unfortunately i blew a head gasket sent them out to get ported and added a cam, headers, clutch, exhaust, and some other mods. after that i had a stupid p0100 code that the dealer wanted 2000 to fix. so it sat in the sun and this is the outcome















Ok so my friend that i played high school football with fixed the code(stupid easy fix) in exchange i painted his03 r1. So far i have half a gallon of spi grey regular 2k primer, I'm going to buy a gallon of spi clear, 1 gallon of Hok bc25 per jims recommendation. I don't want to spray the jambs as they are black already i really want to do the body work, and spray it at school. other than the driver side rear panel that i messed up in a fight and the cracked paint on the bumpers the car is in great condition. on that bumper i plan on welding the holes from the old screw type puller my dad used and use the weld on puller to the remove the dent. and take the bumpers down to the plastic.

My questions are: should i buy black epoxy instead of using the grey 2k primer? should i do the jambs? Is bulldog affective for my bumpers? Is it ok to take off the bumpers, spoilers, and hood and paint them apart? Thank you guys

[mitmaks]

Doesn't look like paint is metallic. I would take off bumpers and various small parts off, easier for you to paint them. Make sure you put as many coats of material on them as the rest of the car to match. You can mask off jambs if you don't want to paint them. You're repainting whole car so it doesn't matter what color primer you'll use as you won't notice difference on the outside of the car. However you can just get same color primer that was used on the car originally (gray??) I don't see reason to change color of primer for your car if you want to match factory color.

[ws6 beat]

the paint is solid black. the paint i am going to use is house of kolor bc25. it is not te original black on the car. i already have a gallon of it. I'm also leaning toward spi universal clear, as i have used it on my 93 750 gixxer and friends 03 yamaha r1. but any clear recommendations would be appreciated.

[st3gamefarm]

Originally Posted by ws6 beat

the paint is solid black. the paint i am going to use is house of kolor bc25. it is not te original black on the car. i already have a gallon of it. I'm also leaning toward spi universal clear, as i have used it on my 93 750 gixxer and friends 03 yamaha r1. but any clear recommendations would be appreciated.

On a non-metalic color such as Black, I would reccomend not using any clear at all, but a good quality single stage paint. It will look better, hold up longer, and will require less material, as well as fewer chances for foreign matter (dust etc) to get in the paint.
Any off color speck between the last coat of black and the last coat of clear will allways be there, and will stand out like poo on a church house door, unless you re-paint.
There is only two valid reasons to clearcoat:
#1 metallics and pearls
#2 multi tone paint job when you want to bury the line/s.
(just my two cents)

Thanx
Shorty

[ws6 beat]

I already bought the bc25.

[alexflacco]

There are mixed opinions about weather SS is better or worse for solid colors, and I don't want to get in to it. But either way will work and tons of solid color cars are done with Base and Clear.

As for the dirt, just tac off the base after every coat and put on 3 or so good coats of clear, you will have plenty of clear to sand out all of the dirt and dust specs.

[ws6 beat]

I plan on painting the car in a booth. but may do some of the smaller parts at home. Dust hopefully will be minimized. How much clear would i need? so far i have a quart of spi universal. i know its not enough.

[st3gamefarm]

I would think that a gallon of clear+hardener, and reducer. should do all that you need to do, and get you about 3 good coats. (enough to aggressively sand and buff) You'll probably use about 3 quarts, or so, but for the price of 3 quarts, you can buy a gallon.

[ws6 beat]

yeah i decided to stay with spi universal clear. not cheap but i plan on having this car for a long time. not sure if i should go with spi epoxy or omni or kirker.

[ws6 beat]

Ok i got a few hours of work in this weekend. I almost finished sanding the front bumper. I'll finish the rest off. i also ground down the spot that had a dent. I have a friend thats gonna weld these holes. I dont have a stud gun so i might have to go use the one at the school when it starts. Ill just put some spray on primer until then.











Just got this electric DA sander





I used this to strip the paint and bondo.



Ok now for the questions. How do i get the paint off the emblem without damaging it? should i strip the entire fender? (I'm going to order spi epoxy to cover it). The reason i sanded the front bumper is because i had a bunch of these cracks in it.



the back has a few should it have the same fate or can i just sand those down epoxy and primer?

[ruffrida2005]

I'm not a painter by any means, but I've heard that when doing plastic you need to use a additive for the paint to flex a little. Check into it. Also if your going to paint it black then you can just use an black epoxy/primer and then clear it. just my .02

[ws6 beat]

I dont think the base coat is too much of a problem as i already have it. It is HOK bc25. I just ordered a gallon of spi epoxy primer today.

[ws6 beat]

Ok an update I got most of her painted. came out pretty good very very little orange peel so little that I'm not sure if ill cut,buff, and polish the whole car. maybe just some dust nibs and 2 small runs. here are some pics


















I still have to paint gas cover bumpers, spoiler, and side moldings and trim. bunch of small pieces.

[ws6 beat]

here is my album of the car and my future project (1969 firebird).

http://s715.photobucket.com/albums/ww155/ayalam30/

[mitmaks]

it came out great