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Old 02-17-2006, 05:35 PM
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Repairing Base Coat

Problem
I just finished my fenders for my 58 Ford Truck, two tone, colonial white over dark blue. The base coat is Deltron DBC. The Clear is SPI Universal Clear.

My clear went on really dry so I was wet sanding with 600 in order to reclear.

This is my first ever experience with clear.

As I worked on the blue portion of the fender I began to notice a few very small dots of white coming through. Eventually I had quite a fewof little white spots.

I realized that this was my sealer coming through. I guess I didn't get it on as smooth as I thought and the clear was so thin I broke through the base.

Questions
1. Can I simply redo the blue base coat (PPG DBC) over the SPI Universal Clear or do I need to seal again, then base, then clear?

2. Should I be using black sealer instead of white. I chose white because of the colonial white but it really sticks out with blue? I hate to use two different colors of sealer.

3. Was this problem caused by too thin clear coats, imperfections in the base, or to aggressive sanding technique?

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Old 02-17-2006, 05:47 PM
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The answer to your question ---for whatever reason white sealer needs to be strainted more than any other.That being the case simply sand the panels redo the base coat with normal application techniques and reclear.I've been using SPI's epoxy,primer and MS clear on all cars that I paint.I can also tell you that the clear goes on fairly smooth and I normally put on 3 coats.Check out the Quaker State Challenge--click on the Exton Campus---all products used other than the color is SPI..good luck
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Old 02-17-2006, 05:52 PM
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Thanks for an answer to my question.

So I should strain my white sealer twice or go with a darker color?
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Old 02-17-2006, 05:59 PM
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The rule of thumb is the sealer should be as close in color as the top coat--light blue -a light grey or white sealer--dark blue a dark grey sealer.If you have little white dots here and there i would think as long as its sanded smooth and wiped down properly go ahead and paint.At this point I think re sealing the car would be a waste of product,time and money
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:37 PM
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I tend to use a stack of about 3-4 strainers for my paint, certain paints seem to form grains that will slip through a single stainer.

But from what you are experiencing, I would bet that you are putting everything on too dry. Slow your travel speed a bit and let it flow! (not till it runs, lol)
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Old 02-17-2006, 09:50 PM
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If you wetsanded with 600 you're ready to apply more color and clear. Shoot the first coat of color on and let it flash for 20 to 30 minutes, then apply another coat. If all is good with complete coverage and no more white specs showing then let it set for an hour before you shoot the clear.

Letting the basecoat flash well will give it enough time to release solvent and reduce the risk of these solvents wrinkling/lifting the clear below. If you apply the bascoat too wet or don't give it a good amount of time to breathe between coats then the solvents may wrinkle up your first application of clear below-hope this made sense.

It sounds like you may need to spray a test panel with clear to get your gun settings and application speed right to apply a smooth wet coat of clear. If the gun settings, distance from panel, and speed are right the clear should go on smooth. The temperature range of the clear hardener and reducers also play into how well the clear will go on- make sure you've got the right products for the temperature you're spraying in. From the dry description it sounds like the clear is being applied too fast, distance from panel is too far, or the temperature of the products are too low. Do a test panel. Bob
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Old 02-18-2006, 01:42 AM
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any chance of solvent pop? little white dots all over... hmm..
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:17 PM
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I did my doors today. Used the white HOK Sealer. I strained it using two strainers. I am sure it was the sealer that caused my problem with trash in it.

I used a gray pad on it this time and took off quite a few boogers before I put on the blue.


I also finally got the hang of the clear and put it on wet and smooth rather than dry and rough.

Thanks to everyone who helped me out. You can see my project at the following link. I will try to get my recent pictures up by Wednesday.

http://1958fordf100.net


1958fordf100
Ira Brown
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:44 PM
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Glad you hear you got it dialed in!
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:07 PM
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Here is a picture of the fenders and doors after reclearing both.

On to the cab.

Thanks again for your help!

Ira Brown
Chandler Arizona
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