[leejoy]

Help

I don't do body work. I'm good at everything else but have no experience in body work. Anyway, I just bought a new steel hood for my 72 nova. I'm having it painted by somebody else next week. The painter guy does not do body work - only painting. The hood is already primed with that EDP stuff. It's one of those goodmark hoods. There are 2 or 3 very small "dimples" in the corner of the hood (near passenger side windshield) I would like to fix that before painting. what should I do? I don't want to make a "major project" out of this. I was going to sand it a little bit, apply some filler, sand the filler, do that over and over again 2 or 3 times, then a final sanding with very fine paper like 300 or 500 or something like that, then get a cheap spray can of primer and spray over the area that I worked on.

Is that ok or am I being a dummy? If not ok, what else should I do?

thanks.

Lee

[baddbob]

Your plan is OK but I wouldn't use any 1K rattle can primer unless you have a paintstore mix some 2K surfacer or epoxy primer and load it in a spraycan for you.

[MARTINSR]

Lee, how about taking it by a shop and letting them take a look at it? Also, have you trial fit this hood?

Brian

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Lee, how about taking it by a shop and letting them take a look at it? Also, have you trial fit this hood?

Brian

brian. I know a shop can fix it but they will also probably charge me at least $100 to do it. I'm not ready to pay that for a "dimple" at this point. I'd like to try and do it myself.

Lee

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by baddbob

Your plan is OK but I wouldn't use any 1K rattle can primer unless you have a paintstore mix some 2K surfacer or epoxy primer and load it in a spraycan for you.

not sure what you mean by 1K and 2K. I will google it and find out what that means.

[MARTINSR]

Lee, the "1K" is a product that doesn't use any hardener, like your aerosol can. "2K" refers to any product that does use a hardener, it chemically "cures" and will be (theoretically) insoluable to other solvents.

If you scuff that primer, apply a skim coat of polyester putty like Evercoats "Metal Glaze" and block that flat with 180 you really don't even need to prime it real fast. The polyester putty is a 2K and it will be pretty safe to then transport the hood to your painter who will then apply a little 2K primer (urethane probably) and block that smooth prior to painting the hood.


I ask about trial fitting the hood because you REALLY need to do that before you paint it. There is a very real possiblility you will need to "tweek" it a little here and there to make it fit well.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Here is an exerpt from a "Basics of Basics" on paint technologies that may come in handy available at the link below. It explains much more about different primers and their uses.

"“2K” or “Two component” is any product that uses a hardener, activator, catalyst, etc. It may or may not use a third component in the form of a solvent. 2K products don’t “dry” like a 1K. The 2K product “cures” by molecules linking together to form a whole new compound. Most high quality 2Ks are insoluble after a full cure and will not soften when exposed to solvents like thinners or gas. Examples are urethane under coats and top coats. Epoxies, ISO free products that use a hardener, etc.

Basic tip, ALL 2K products should be mixed as accurately as possible. As a rule 2K products need a minimum of 55 degrees to cure with an ideal minimum of 65 degrees. MIX THEM AS DESCRIBED BY THE MANUFACTURE. They have spent hundreds of thousands, possibly millions of dollars developing the product, they WANT it to work as BEST it can. Do as they say, don’t become a “Junior Chemist”.



http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9166

Brian

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Lee, the "1K" is a product that doesn't use any hardener, like your aerosol can. "2K" refers to any product that does use a hardener, it chemically "cures" and will be (theoretically) insoluable to other solvents.

If you scuff that primer, apply a skim coat of polyester putty like Evercoats "Metal Glaze" and block that flat with 180 you really don't even need to prime it real fast. The polyester putty is a 2K and it will be pretty safe to then transport the hood to your painter who will then apply a little 2K primer (urethane probably) and block that smooth prior to painting the hood.


I ask about trial fitting the hood because you REALLY need to do that before you paint it. There is a very real possiblility you will need to "tweek" it a little here and there to make it fit well.

Brian

wow - I'm even more in the dark than I thought. so your saying that the 2k primer has to be sanded before painting. I didnt know that. It that optional or mandatory?

Are you saying that I must apply a skim coat of the polyester putty over the body filler (before applying 2k primer) or is the putty optional?

Lee

[MARTINSR]

You certainly don't "have to" apply polyester putty over the "regular" filler. What I was actually saying is if these "dimples" are very small as they sound like they are, ALL you need is the skim coat of polyester putty.

I personally never use just "regular" filler simply because of the procedure I use. Which is roughing the filler into shape with coarser paper and then applying a skim coat of polyester putty as sort of a "primer" and blocking to perfection. OR if the damage is small enough, simply applying the polyester putty.

The 2K primer must always be sanded unless it is specifically a "primer/sealer" like an epoxy (used following the tech sheets guidelines), those can applied over bare metal and then painted right over it.

The thing is, after doing any filler work you most always would need to "surface" it by blocking the primer prior to any paint work.

Brian

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

You certainly don't "have to" apply polyester putty over the "regular" filler. What I was actually saying is if these "dimples" are very small as they sound like they are, ALL you need is the skim coat of polyester putty.

I personally never use just "regular" filler simply because of the procedure I use. Which is roughing the filler into shape with coarser paper and then applying a skim coat of polyester putty as sort of a "primer" and blocking to perfection. OR if the damage is small enough, simply applying the polyester putty.

The 2K primer must always be sanded unless it is specifically a "primer/sealer" like an epoxy (used following the tech sheets guidelines), those can applied over bare metal and then painted right over it.

The thing is, after doing any filler work you most always would need to "surface" it by blocking the primer prior to any paint work.

Brian

Ok, so it sounds like all I need to do is get a hold of some of this polyester putty you speak of, apply it per the instructions, sand it to perfection then I am ready to bring it to the painter. Is that correct? what grit sandpaper do you recommend for this very small dimple project I have going on? something very fine I would imagine. Can I get the putty product at a local auto parts store or is something to get from a industrial paint shop or mail order/internet auto parts supply house.

[MARTINSR]

180 would be a good grit to finish something off for primer. You can get polyster putty at any auto paint store, and at some parts stores. Look in your phone book under "Automotive" and "Paint and supplies". Or simply call a body shop and ask where they get their supplies.

I have to ask again, have you trail fit this hood? I am only asking because from your first post it sounds like this hood has been pulled out of the box and it is off to the painter. You REALLY need to trail fit it.

Brian

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

180 would be a good grit to finish something off for primer. You can get polyster putty at any auto paint store, and at some parts stores. Look in your phone book under "Automotive" and "Paint and supplies". Or simply call a body shop and ask where they get their supplies.

I have to ask again, have you trail fit this hood? I am only asking because from your first post it sounds like this hood has been pulled out of the box and it is off to the painter. You REALLY need to trail fit it.

Brian

brian

yes I fit the hood. It's on the car now and adjusted pretty well. sorry I forgot to respond. it fits good. I am happy with the fit. It's one of those Goodmark hoods. Not the heaviest gauge, but built well. the only problem are those tiny dimples at the one corner created during shipping I guess. I'll fix that.

[MARTINSR]

Sounds good.

Brian

[leejoy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Sounds good.

Brian

brian:

I went to the store and bought a small tube of that glazing compound/putty stuff. I sanded the area first with # 320, cleaned it, then applied the first coat of compound, waited for it to dry, applied another coat, waited, sanded it with #1000 grit, cleaned it, then sprayed the first layer of aerosol primer. I am waiting now, then I will sand the primer with #1000, clean it, then spray another coat of primer. Hope that does it. this is my first time doing this stuff. I know it wont be perfect, but my car is far from perfect so it will be consistent with the rest of the car. looks like the dimples are gone though.

[MARTINSR]

Lee, I assume you understood that the 1K rattle can primer and 1K putty (actually simply very thick lacquer primer) are miles from what Bob and I have suggested. I assume you just want to "getrdone" and use the old technology older stuff. That is fine, as long as you do understand what we have said and that it is simply a choice.

Using those products is far from the end of the world, but they are not even in the same ball park with the 2K products as far as longevity and shinking and what not.

If you are ok with that, you did fine. The 1000 grit paper prior to primer was way overkill but it isn't a bad thing.

Brian