[46highboypu]

I'm not sure this is the thread place or trans but here goes. I have always had trouble with the safety switch on my B&M shifter. Is there another way to have a safety switch not directly attached to the trans/shifter? I was thinking of a "hold it in" type of button that would replace the switch that I would push in while I started the engine. Would this work? Or is there a better idea. The real problem is that it seems to very difficult to get contact with the "points" on the switch which is part of the shifter. I have tried every adjustment I can think of.

[EOD Guy]

I suppose it would work.... but kinds defeats the purpose of not being able to start it unless in park/neut. What type of B&M do you have....... is there room to mount anything else under the cover? You might be able to rig up a micro switch that the shifter arm hits when in park.

I had lot's of trouble with my hurst getting it to adjust properly....... ended up making a test light that I hooked up to the switch (OEM wires disconnected from the switch) and when the light lit...... that was the sweet spot tightened everything up and haven't had a problem since. I also have a hidden switch under the dash that allows me to bypass the NSS should it ever not work again when I'm out and about......... that's what drove me crazy..... I would go someplace and it wouldn't start etc......

[46highboypu]

Thanks EOD,
Yes, I've been there...stop for gas on the way to a cruise-in and have to lift the console out to trip the switch. My shifter is the street rod shifter from B&M, I should have went for the extra money and bought a Lokar. Oh well. I don't think I will have a problem starting in gear as I will have some kind of switch. This may sound strange but getting in and starting my hot rod is a big deal to me, I don't just jump in and go. All last summer the routine was always get settled, put on the belt, pull up on the shifter to engage the switch and start it up. So I'm thinking pull/push/flip a switch will fit right in. Sort of like..."contact". I just want something more reliable.

[EOD Guy]

Looks like there is plenty of room to attach a micro switch to the strong back, so that when it's in park the NSS will be connected, If you want to hook up an aditional or one in a remote location, just hook the wires in parallel with the orig switch and run them to where ever you want, that way either switch will complete the NNS circuit

[ween]

hi,
you could wire a relay (bosch type or equivalent) that interrupts the starter unless the foot brake is pressed.
just a thought.
mark

[topwrench]

Originally Posted by EOD Guy

I suppose it would work.... but kinds defeats the purpose of not being able to start it unless in park/neut. What type of B&M do you have....... is there room to mount anything else under the cover? You might be able to rig up a micro switch that the shifter arm hits when in park.

I had lot's of trouble with my hurst getting it to adjust properly....... ended up making a test light that I hooked up to the switch (OEM wires disconnected from the switch) and when the light lit...... that was the sweet spot tightened everything up and haven't had a problem since. I also have a hidden switch under the dash that allows me to bypass the NSS should it ever not work again when I'm out and about......... that's what drove me crazy..... I would go someplace and it wouldn't start etc......

I think micro switch is the way to go also

[alittle1]

Originally Posted by 46highboypu

I'm not sure this is the thread place or trans but here goes. I have always had trouble with the safety switch on my B&M shifter. Is there another way to have a safety switch not directly attached to the trans/shifter? I was thinking of a "hold it in" type of button that would replace the switch that I would push in while I started the engine. Would this work? Or is there a better idea. The real problem is that it seems to very difficult to get contact with the "points" on the switch which is part of the shifter. I have tried every adjustment I can think of.

Why not have a look at these instructions that are for your shifter and see if they help you determine the problem your having, see step #15 & #16.

http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/81010.pdf

[EOD Guy]

After reading the link above, not much help on adjustment, I got to thinking the switch it's self might need adj. There is a level that actually operates the switch, you might try bending the level slightly further away from the body of the switch. Be careful as those micro switches are very fragile and won't take much abuse.

[unix]

Sounds like your switch is just out of adjustment, very easy to fix. You say it will not start, switch to far out not actuating. DO NOT BEND SWITCH ACTUATORS .

The best method is to hang an Ohm meter off the contacts, NO. Loosen the screws just enough so you can slide the switch in and out. Place the shifter into neutral or park.

Push the switch in slowly, when you get a reading on the meter stop and tighten up the switch. Run the shifter back and forth a few times, note the the switch closes in neutral and park every time the shifter is there. You might not get it exactly the first time so be sure to check it.

Do not know the street rod shifter but I will bet the micro switch is a standard used on all their product line. I use the mega shifters in 3 hotrods, the switch provided is robust and works with out a hitch.

Adjustment is critical, not imposable, could take an extra minute to get it right. However well worth the effort.

Lokar shifters a pure CRAP, that B&M is a very good product, you would be down grading buying a lokar.

[EOD Guy]

Nothing wrong with bending the lever! Just don't bend it too far! Especially if you've monkey'd with it, sometimes, that's all you have to do is bend the lever a tad to get it back into adjustment.

[46highboypu]

Thanks everyone!! As if the NSS switch weren't enough the ignition switch has to be replaced yet again. The tumbler just turns in the switch. About the NSS there are two screws that hold it on, one seems to allow pivoting and the other to hold it in place. Which it does not. I have put a small spacer in the slot above the screw to hold it down so the shifter side of the switch will contact. Part of the problem seems to be that the spring detent on the shifter itself keeps the contact from coming all the way up to the switch. I have been just pulling it up into contact and starting, which works usually but it's just not now. I'll replace the ignition this week and go over everything again. Thanks for all the help!

[EOD Guy]

If the screw hole is stripped....... I have had good luck with using a slightly larger self-tapping screw....like the ones holding most appliances together...... and sometimes you can place a small amount of steel wool into the hole then try to re-install the screw..... now once in goes in...if you remove it... new steel wool etc.