replacing control arm and body bushings - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 06:17 PM
elcaminodragster's Avatar
70 El Camino aka FRANKENSTEIN
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: California
Age: 26
Posts: 738
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
replacing control arm and body bushings

ok i have a 1970 elky,

im going to be replacing my front control arm bushings along with my body bushings. ill be buying energy suspensions polyurethane bushings.

my question is. . . when i replace the bushings in the upper control arms should i buy a new shaft as well or no??? it looks like its in good condition but idk if its a part that should be changed anyways.

also do you have any tips on changing the body bushings???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 08:59 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Journal Update
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Milwaukee, WI
Age: 42
Posts: 60
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Replacing control arm and body bushings

Elco Dragster, take a look at my project journal. Just did a complete front end rebuild on a 73 Camino with a numbers matching factory 454. Went with Poly bushings. The truck I am doing came from TX, the shafts were in great shape, if you poke through the journal you can see that most of the parts I was able to reuse simply by cleaning up with a wire brush, and some clear lacquer or magnetic paint to stop the rust. Here is a link to the project journal with the control arms and parts cleaned up as discussed.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...age=5&reverse=

Most of the time, if the bushings were not terrible (I have seen where there was no rubber left on the bushings) and the shafts are not scored or worn weird, I'd just reuse them. Most of the time they don't wear out unless there was something wrong to begin with. If the bushing sleeve that rides on the cross shaft has strange wear, or is oval shaped and you can see obvious wear on the shaft or by using the new bushing to check and have excessive play, then by all means change them out.

I am still working on the Camino as we speak. It's getting close to body work time for it.

Good Luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2008, 11:11 PM
68firebird
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 118
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Shafts are reusable unless they have deformed threads, extensive pitting or they are bent. Also check the holes in the center of the cross shaft for stress cracks or elongation. I don't know of anybody who has had one fail before but a bent on will give you lots of headaches when it comes to alignments and tire wear.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 06:08 AM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 53
Posts: 2,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
ok i have a 1970 elky,

do you have any tips on changing the body bushings???

Just did this on my 66 (actually -- body is still off the frame)

A good portion of those bushing bolts may be frozen into the cagenuts.

Spray lots of penetrating oil onto the tops of the cagenuts before trying to remove the bolts

I have some pics of where I had to cut portions of the floor to replace the bad cagenuts---have to wait til I get home to post em tho.

If the bolts are frozen on the mounts just aft of the rear wheels----that tower is fairly easy to open up if needed.

The mounts is the rear may present a problem---I did not open up the rear, 'cause I was able to grind a slot into the broken bolt and screw it into the body---then fish it out.

I had to replace 9 of the 12 body cagenuts on my car , and the replacement cagenuts are smaller than the originals, so they were welded to a large fender washer and then welded into the car.

Team Chevelle has quite a bit of info on this and there is a thread going on right now about available bushings.

Bryan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 08:47 AM
RPM's Avatar
RPM RPM is offline
World Class ASE tech
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hills of TN
Age: 63
Posts: 703
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Throw those stock shafts away and install a set of Moog K5250 shafts. Those frames were bad about sagging and and you get negative camber. Install that Moog shaft and it is offset to give positive camber. You can't check any of this till the car is completley rebuilt and put on an alignment machine. Way too late then. Then you will have to go back and redo it all.
IF that frame is not sagged, it will be no big deal as the alignment shop can shim it to correct it all. But install those shafts while you have it all apart.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 10:00 AM
elcaminodragster's Avatar
70 El Camino aka FRANKENSTEIN
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: California
Age: 26
Posts: 738
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicweb
Most of the time, if the bushings were not terrible (I have seen where there was no rubber left on the bushings) and the shafts are not scored or worn weird, I'd just reuse them. Most of the time they don't wear out unless there was something wrong to begin with. If the bushing sleeve that rides on the cross shaft has strange wear, or is oval shaped and you can see obvious wear on the shaft or by using the new bushing to check and have excessive play, then by all means change them out.

I am still working on the Camino as we speak. It's getting close to body work time for it.

Good Luck!
the bushings arent in horrible shape but they are pretty worn. and from what i can tell the shafts look good but ill know for sure when i take it all apart.

btw. . . very nice work on the elky !!! the top side of my frame looks like that (when i pulled the engine i cleaned and painted) only flat black. im not a fan of gloss and chrome


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
Just did this on my 66 (actually -- body is still off the frame)

A good portion of those bushing bolts may be frozen into the cagenuts.

Spray lots of penetrating oil onto the tops of the cagenuts before trying to remove the bolts

I have some pics of where I had to cut portions of the floor to replace the bad cagenuts---have to wait till I get home to post em tho.

If the bolts are frozen on the mounts just aft of the rear wheels----that tower is fairly easy to open up if needed.

The mounts is the rear may present a problem---I did not open up the rear, 'cause I was able to grind a slot into the broken bolt and screw it into the body---then fish it out.

I had to replace 9 of the 12 body cagenuts on my car , and the replacement cagenuts are smaller than the originals, so they were welded to a large fender washer and then welded into the car.

Team Chevelle has quite a bit of info on this and there is a thread going on right now about available bushings.

Bryan
i knew it was gonna be a pain in the but with a few of them frozen into the cagenuts but 9!!! geez i hope i dont run into that. ill pick up a can of i think its called pb oil or something its helped a TON in the past. thanks for the input

what are the torque specs for the body bolts Bryan??? i cant find how tight to put them in any of my books.

Last edited by elcaminodragster; 08-27-2008 at 10:18 AM. Reason: forgot one question about the body bolts
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 06:55 PM
elcaminodragster's Avatar
70 El Camino aka FRANKENSTEIN
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: California
Age: 26
Posts: 738
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
change of plans

well i tore off my front suspension today and found some bad kinda scary news. . .

on the lower arm driver side the front bushing was loose and warped the arm a bit along with warping the bushing hole a bit

so im forced to buy new control arms. but i cant find anywhere that i know of that sells lower control arms for my car that are not tubular. so if i am to get tubular arms i would have to get upper tubular arms to match correct??? that way everything matches.

does anyone sell the control arms (not tubular) and if i buy tubular arms who makes them good strong and cheap. im on a tight budget but i am willing to spend the cash for a good strong part that wont fail me.

this sucks now because i cant build my 9" rear but its good because i found a major problem that could have caused more damage. ill post a pics soon
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 10:21 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 53
Posts: 2,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Yes---new control arms are available
You can check most any of the Chevelle catalogs

You can also use control arms from 64-72 Chevelle, Cutlass, Skylark, Tempest/GTO

There are 3 different versions of these arms and the difference is the size and style of the bushungs in them.
64-66 had large round bushings
66 to 69 used smaller bushings
68+ used a round bushing(front of arm) and an oval bushing (rear of arm)

yep----the years overlap so there is no real way of knowing what the car has without actually looking at it.

And to compund issues---the service replacent arm for all years used the oval bushing arm.

the rear bushing on the early ones will have a diameter of 1.9 inches
the second design will be 1.6 inches
and the third one will obviously be oval.

Measure your bushings (probably oval) and make sure you get a matching set of arms --- and you will need the measurements before getting the bushings for the arms

The rear bushing
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2008, 08:50 AM
elcaminodragster's Avatar
70 El Camino aka FRANKENSTEIN
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: California
Age: 26
Posts: 738
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hey Bryan,

i do have the oval style. i have done a large amount of research and found a place called The El Camino Store. they sell stamped steal control arms for my car bare for 89 bucks. and they seem like they are a good quality but i wouldnt know till i see them.

ill buy the proper bushings for them Polyurethane of course and while im buying them im thinking i might as well get a new set of uppers just to be on the save side. mainly because the lowers were messed up so how can i be sure the uppers arent tweaked. plus i could use new ball joints.

im thinking of postponing the rear end build for a bit longer and upgrade what i havent on the front suspension (sway bar all control arms and steering linkage). just so that it can handle the rear end change and the abuse when i hit the track.

oh and btw Bryan i had quite a bit of luck on my body bushings. i only had 4 cage nuts that where bad 2 of which where a very very easy fix and the other 2 not so easy but i got it all done and holy crap the bushings looked scary ill post some pics of what the worst ones look like.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2008, 05:19 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Vacuum brake bleeder set up
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,245
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Forget about the poly bushings. They squeak and bind up the suspension. If you want something firmer get Moog Problem Solver bushings. They are made out of a high durometer rubber that will not bind or squeak but still be about as firm as poly. Poly is for bushings that don't move IMO like engine, trans, body, etc... If you do use poly for the suspension be sure to install grease zerks by removing the inner sleeve, drilling through the bushing shell and poly, and tapping for a zerk so you can grease them.

www.rockauto.com has good prices and carries the Moog Problem Solver bushings.

Last edited by Triaged; 09-01-2008 at 05:29 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2008, 06:07 PM
elcaminodragster's Avatar
70 El Camino aka FRANKENSTEIN
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: California
Age: 26
Posts: 738
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
the pic of the 2 bushings are the worst body bushings that were on my car.

the pic of the control arm and the bushing is the messed up control arm. you cant really tell that its tweaked outta shape but it is. and the bushing fell out when i removed the control arm!

the other pics are just for fun to show how ive cleaned up
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0693.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	122.5 KB
ID:	32213   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0694.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	141.1 KB
ID:	32214   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0687.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	176.4 KB
ID:	32215   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0701.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	176.0 KB
ID:	32216  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2001 mitsubishi Eclipse A-Frame/Lower control arm bent PLEASE HELP!! jordan2011 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 6 08-15-2008 05:17 AM
Chrysler Imperial lower control arm interchange powerrodsmike Suspension - Brakes - Steering 14 08-05-2006 06:08 PM
control arm interchange Derkyb Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 06-21-2006 07:50 PM
71 Chevelle rear control arm bushings 454me Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 04-23-2005 09:46 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.