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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:15 AM
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Thanks my "show me" friend, just goes to show that even us seasond pro's screw up and get into a big can of worms..What started out as a simple outter rocker replacement has turned into some very major work...If this was a customer car I would have started out by disassembling the WHOLE car first and I would have spotted the damage right away and then we would have talked and most likely scraped the car..I should have started with that side because I knew there were issues with the rocker,the cover was loose and cobbled on with three different type wood screws My thinking at the time was someone had went over a speed bump and knocked the cover off and the owner threw it back on with what ever he could find in the wifes kitchen tool drawer...
what started out as a paint job has'nt even started yet ,I replaced the bumper cover, drivers door,,rocker and now the pass door and 1/4 ,I'm still going to need a rear bumper cover...and the hood is going to need some extra time getting straight,Ya'll know how getting an old hood straight can be....
Well its a good thing I enjoy doing this work because in the end I wont be making any money on it,But I WILL break even AND get to drive a super straight ,SPI red,Iroc for a while.who knows maybe I'll fall in love and keep it..

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:23 AM
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Glad to hear that your going to paint the IROC SPI Red...I have borrowed a little bit of SPI Black from a buddy that owns a shop and uses it so I know how the Black sprays and looks, I can use my imagination for the White but, trying to picture the SPI Red has given me some trouble. If it sprays, lays down and looks as rich as the Black, I'm sure it's going to be great.

Ray
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:51 AM
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I went to the pull it yard and found two contenders for the 1/4 and door. I'm going to show you guys how to remove a 1/4 with the outer wheel tub intact so when I weld it all back together I'll weld at the seam of the inner and outer tub ..the end result will be the original spot welds in the wheel well will still be there so no body will ever know it was replaced...Very important It'll look completely original ...heres the best two cars at the yard and they're pretty darn good,I'm going with the white RS...mainly because the door has the holes for the ground effects and it has the orig paint the gray camaro has been painted once on both sides..but not the top surfaces which tells me that the car had some damage ,it was done at a collision shop and the Ins co.would only pay to fix the damage...I'll take the origal paint ,its not as pretty but what you see is what you get..sometimes getting the pretty ,shiney one is just a painted part full of bondo....
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:13 AM
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When I got back from the yard I did some more grinding of the welds and dressing up the metal for primer,there will be no bondo in any of this...when I grind my p;lug welds I leave them a little proud so they will be easier to spot if it ever has to be replaced in the future...If youve ever had to replace something like this that a bodyman has ground flat and then bondo'd up you'd know its impossible to see them so parts are very difficult to remove...this way someone can find and drill them just like I did with the factory welds...they'll appreciate me doing this and insted of hey joe look at this cobbled up POS they be saying hey this guy knew something and had future bodymen in mind when he did this. I've actually had bodymen that knew me me give me a call saying hey Mike,I got one of your cars at my shop...because I do things a little differently and its like a signature...
Notice the two seams at the top of the pillar cover it had to be done so I could weld inside then weld the little piece back in place where it goes around and into the jamb it'll be seen so I dressed it up just like I would if it was a long seam on a 1/4 panel but at the other end I left it a little proud so it CAN be seen if anybody needs to get in ther in the future...
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Glad to hear that your going to paint the IROC SPI Red...I have borrowed a little bit of SPI Black from a buddy that owns a shop and uses it so I know how the Black sprays and looks, I can use my imagination for the White but, trying to picture the SPI Red has given me some trouble. If it sprays, lays down and looks as rich as the Black, I'm sure it's going to be great.

Ray
funny thing is I've already had the paint for a couple weeks and still havent opend the can to check it out...I was going to go with Viper red or SPI , it being one of Barry's custom mixes and I believe almost like his signature or flagship color but I called and asked about it and asked if he thought it would look good on my Iroc ,he said Heck yeah it'll look great..I didnt need to hear any more ,I have that much trust in the man and havnt even checked the color...heck it could be black for all I know...
Just got two gallons of black SS and a gallon of clear for an Impala coming in tomorrow (super straight and color change)...The Camaro will be on hold for a while...after I paint the jamb and cut in te door...
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:40 AM
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I know what you mean Mike, everything I've used with an SPI label has out performed anything I've ever used, repped or sold. I'm sure that the Red won't be any different. I know that every computer screen is going to make the Red look different but, post pictures of the Red when you do your jambs and the inside of the doors (I'm sure you would regardless), just so I can see the shade.

Ray
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 02:36 PM
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will do, ray...Funny, now that I've made up my mind I'm looking forward to replacing the 1/4, but the jamb painting will have to wait until the 1/4 is on..
I got SS so I would'nt have to clear the jambs and I'll be sanding and clearing the red on the body it should turn out pretty nice.I'm thinking of incorperating one of the old style 69 stripe kits, like the hocky stripe maybe...but unique
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:27 PM
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I do understand about painting the jambs after the quarter has been replaced...is there a reason you went Single Stage on the Camero besides not needing to clear the jambs?

I think that the 69 Hokey stripes would look cool on that IROCket.

Ray
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2013, 09:32 PM
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I'm really anxious to see the progress on this one. Thanks Mike.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I do understand about painting the jambs after the quarter has been replaced...is there a reason you went Single Stage on the Camero besides not needing to clear the jambs?

I think that the 69 Hokey stripes would look cool on that IROCket.

Ray
yeah but what color stripes ? white? Irocket ,I like that ...
sure Ray,using a base I wouldnt be able to sand before the clear, Plus I want lots of depth so after sanding the SS I'll add some color to the clear (not much) then top it off with two coats of clear.6 coats all together and sanded three times once after the red ,once after the red tinted clear and then the final sanding before buffing...I'm also going to try something new (to me) and that is take my sanding all the way to 3ooo before I do any buffing ,this (I hope ) will take most of the back breaking work out of the buffing and polishing...and I'm all for that..I HATE buffing but dont mind sanding...The REAL challenge is getting a super paint job without a booth...my new shop is too small for a booth but I have come up with a few things (I'll post later) that give me great results ,that anyone with basic wood working skills can build ...and some filtering remedies....that'll help many...
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:44 AM
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The IROCket...you can have that, it came to me yesterday but, I'm sure it's been used before.

Mike...I finish anything that I buff in a minimum 2,500 wet...sometimes I've gone 3,000 wet if I've let it sit to long. I guarantee you that you can hand polish it if you want, it's that quick. If you get the real soft 6 inch pad you can put it on your DA and you've got it cut with 3K grit in no time. It's not like using a DA with 3,000 on it going to cause any waves in the body....if it's wavy after, it was there before you hit it with 3,000.

I don't understand the theory of adding Red to your clear and that giving it more depth. I've never done that...the only thing I've ever added to catalyzed clear is pearls...and I won't do that anymore....one run, one bueguer (that's French for dried up snot in ones nose...I spell checked it and it came up as a French..LOL) you have to polish out and it's a redo.

I always love to hear air flow improvement techniques, yes, please keep us informed.

Ray
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 07:46 AM
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Oh Mike, Black stripes...White...not a big fan of anything White unless it's on a 1,000 point restoration. To me it's always like I'm cheating.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:02 AM
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I just reread your post Mike...I don't understand what you mean by not being able to sand your base before you clear it. I've sanded solid color base coats (for de-nibbing etc.) and spanked clear over top. If it's a metallic you to hit any area that you touched with sand paper with more base, but solid colors...give it a try on a test panel...it should work...I use 800 wet or 1,000 wet, de-nib, dry it off, hit it with a pre-cleaner, tack and clear. On Whites I've had to re-base after de-nibbing a few times but darker solid colors work fine.

Ray
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:26 PM
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Sure you can sand a base coat solid color but its tough it balls up in the paper and basicly it can only be nibed...I want to sand it flat edge to edge with 600,then I'll put a coat of clear on ,so the tinted clear will actually be sitting a bit above the red giving it a little more depth then two coats of clear on top of that, sanded and buffed to perfection. I'm hoping the paint job alone will sell the car.but If I get lucky I might sand and buff the red with no clear at all ,I have the option of clearing or not..it all depends on how ambishious I am after doing all this unplanned work.I gotta say though, I'm having fun and enjoying every minute of it so far,but my play time is coming to a quick end my next job came in today and it a big one...Poor guy has been waiting patiently for me to stop playing with the Irocket...This job will be in the shop for 4 weeks so I wantyed to getas much done as I could...I got the 1/4 off today...
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 02:14 PM
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Okay, I got ya...same type of thing when sometimes I'll clear a car...let it set up...sand it down and re-clear it. By sanding down the existing paint you have a much more even and flat substrate so whatever you put over top of it like clear, it'll lay down all that much smoother. I'm on the trolley Mike.

Your right, base coat can ball up and if your not careful or you press to hard on the paper you can scar or scratch the base coat...and that sucks if you clear over top.

Honestly, I've never tried adding Single Stage body color to clear...as I mentioned, I've added pearls to clear but that was years ago, now I add pearls, dyes or whatever into a mid coat clear and clear over top of that...a lot easier to repair than if the pearls in the catalyzed clear. if your adding SS into your clear the repairability should still be straight forward.

Good to hear you got the quarter off...anymore surprises?

Ray
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