I need to replace the fuel gauge sender on the drivers side, problem is it's completely dead and shows no indication. I have no way of knowing how much fuel is left in the tank, and don't feel like having the County Fire Department come and put me and the car out if I goof! Someone told me I need bronze tools to remove the screws that hold it in place, where do find those?

Any tips on draining the tank and removing the sender safely

Regards
Mark

Syphon the fuel out.

Umm Yeah.....
That's understood but then you have the problem of vapor collection in the tank. Vapor is very volatile and it doesn't take much to set it off.

I've heard people dropping dry ice in the tank to displace the vapor, here is the problem. Jag tanks fill from the top of the trunk deck, It's going to take quite a bit of Co2 to displace all that vapor. Fuel vapor is heavier than air so I need some way to know when the vapor has been pushed out or high enough to be able to remove the sender.

Believe me I'm not wanting to show my 3 and 5 year old the exploding Daddy trick! Besides you can only do it once!

Regards
Mark

I have heard of vapor being displaced with water,but that was for motorcycle tanks.Just maybe you could do the same,then syphon the water.
Do you have dual tanks?

Your biggest danger is static electricity. If you ground the tank to a good earth, like a wire to your house earth and ensure that there are no sources of ignition nearby you should be okay,
Woody

If you must have bronze tools try Mc Master Carr industrial supply. They are in southern California. We used bronze toold when I worked for an injection molder to prevent damage to the molds.
www.mcmaster.com or phone (562)692-5911
Good luck Dawger

That is scary, I just did the sending unit on my sister inlaws Burb and used my normal tools, what you are saying is I could have gone up in a fire ball. But I did leave the tank full of gas 30 gallons and used a jack to raise and lower it, less vapor.

Has anyone heard of a tank catching fire when being worked on?

Fuel vapor is highly volatile, it only takes a spark in the wrong place to set it off. The Jags sender is in the side of the tank behind the rear wheels. I can't drop the tanks very easily so it must be done on the car. With the fuel fillers on top the chance of major vapor being in there is very high. I have heard several stories where tanks have exploded being completely empty and someone was working on them.

Safety first!!!!

Regards
Mark

I'd say get the gas out, leave the cap off while working on it.
You could also turn fan on, blowing onto where you're working.
You really only have any dangers on collected vapors.The breeze from the fan will keep the vapors from collecting.Ever tried to light a cigarette in the wind? Same thing. As far as inside the tank, as long as your not grinding or welding on it, I wouldn't worry. Any vapors in the tank will rise up, gas cap off should take care of that. I definately would NOT fill it up with water. Hope this helps

Drain all the gas out of the tank and get some dry ice. Break it in to small enough pieces to drop in the tank. Let it sit for a little bit, just a couple of minutes should do, the carbon dioxide vapors will displace the fuel vapors and it will be safe to do your work on the tank. Also take note NEVER handle dry ice with your bare hands, it will burn/freeze your skin and cause permanent damage, wear heavy winter type gloves to handle the dry ice. This method is used by folks that work on the big underground and above ground storage tanks. I've seen them weld on tanks doing this so it does work. It should only take a couple of pounds of dry ice, you can tell when the CO2 has pushed out all the vapors by checking for cool air comming out of the filler neck or the point you put it in at. If you want a little more safety hook up a ground wire from the tank to a ground, hook it up in that order. A water out let is your best bet if you have on near by.

Thanks Bluepen
I think that sounds the safiest so far, draining the tank should not be a big problem they place a drain on the bottom I think. since it''s a car that has the unleaded flap on the filler should I wedge that open? The big problem is the access in through the rear wheel housing. I've got to get it up on the jack take the rear wheel off and then an access plate. The sender under that and so are the connections which I'm going to check first. I'm going to do this project after I get the 3rd brake light installed.

Regards
Mark

If you can find a way to do it. You might be able to use the Argon from your mig welder to displace the fuel vapor in the tank. And you should be able to keep it feeding the tank while you work on it.
Just an idea, never tried it myself yet. You'll have to make up some type of regulatror and hose for the Argon though.

Come on guys,
The guy is only replacing the sender unit,He is not going to weld anything, Don't you think if he makes sure the fuel level is low enough that it doesn't flow out and that there is no ignition sources around that he should be okay.
Woody

I`ve pulled hundreds of gas tanks, I always pump the gas out, place a floor jack under them ,and use normal tools to take it lose, gently let it down, change the sender-pickup unit and reinstall in reverse.
It helps to have someone steady the tank while raiseing and lowering the jack.

Good Luck

Troy

like somebody said, he's only taking out the sending unit, not welding the damn thing. just use your stinkin screw driver and disconnect the wires to it first. what are you worried about? if the tank has to come off first drain it or you'll have 200 pounds fall on your head