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Old 06-10-2007, 08:35 PM
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replacing pressed rocker stud with threaded stud

today, i found a rocker that cut a groove deep into the rocker stud. ive read on here through using the search function about using replacement screw in studs. im fairly competent when it comes to drilling and tapping but my question is: will any stud suffice or is there a specific part number to a Pioneer or Dorman stud ?

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Old 06-11-2007, 08:35 AM
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if your not taking the head off for machining just order one from a 1970 z28 with the lt1 it is a straight stud without the hex, thus negating the need to machine down the stud boss.Just tap the hole 7/16 n.c. you can get a tool for this for about $15.00 it also doubles as a puller to remove the stock press in stud.
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:03 AM
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re: replacing pressed rocker stud with threaded stud

Don't forget you'll want a bottoming tap, otherwise you'll only have good threads about half way down the hole.
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:29 PM
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already ordered some screw in studs. the stud actually pokes thru the other side of the head, so i wont need a bottoming tap.
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Old 06-12-2007, 07:55 PM
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I wonder what caused the rocker to cut into the stud in the first place. It seems to me that a misaligned stud (cocked off to the side instead of straight up & down) might cause that, and if so, installing a new stud into the same misaligned hole would probably end up the same. Unless the old stud was just bent.
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Old 06-13-2007, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco
I wonder what caused the rocker to cut into the stud in the first place. It seems to me that a misaligned stud (cocked off to the side instead of straight up & down) might cause that, and if so, installing a new stud into the same misaligned hole would probably end up the same. Unless the old stud was just bent.

the rocker had a divot in it, like it may have been dropped by someone. it flat spotted the slot just so much to cause it to cut into the stud. i didnt see it when i installed them over a year ago. the stud itself is A-OK as far as alignment.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:26 PM
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I've seen a few pairs of heads messed up bad when a person tried tapping for screw in studs without a jig, these need to be tapped straight otherwise they end up at all different angles.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:38 PM
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Powerhouse makes a tool for this

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...gory_Code=STUD
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Old 06-15-2007, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfulco

yeah, i was gonna make one, but ill just buy one, whats another week on 7 cylinders
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMag
already ordered some screw in studs. the stud actually pokes thru the other side of the head, so i wont need a bottoming tap.
If your existing studs penetrate the water jacket, the screw in studs need to be placed with either teflon plumbers putty or with teflon tape to keep water from leaking past the threads and to keep the stud and head from rusting into a solid part.

As for why this one rocker gouged the stud, you need to look at alignments. A bent stud could do this, rockers that have insufficient length in the slot is another. A change in cam lift or a change from 1.5 to 1.6 rockers can affect pushrod length which then affects alignment of the slot in regard to location of the stud.

This can also be the result of over revving the engine or tiring springs that are allowing the valve to be out of position with regard to the rocker arm position.

Tapping for screw in studs makes a lot of chips. You want to surround each location that's being tapped with wheel bearing grease as well as the tap to insure that chips are trapped and can be wiped up. you will want to remove the tap frequently to clean the chips and regrease it. And yes you need the alignment tool and two taps, a taper end tap to insure you're going straight when getting started and a bottoming tap to insure that you have full depth threads cut all the way through just incase the taper tap hits something in the water jack before if cuts a complete set of threads.

Bogie
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Old 06-15-2007, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMag
already ordered some screw in studs. the stud actually pokes thru the other side of the head, so i wont need a bottoming tap.
On your heads, the stud holes on the intake valves go through to the intake port. Keep that in mind when thinking of where the chips might end up.

tom
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:08 PM
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tom, ill be pulling the intake so i can monitor the escape routes of the chips from tapping. more than likely, ill stick a magnet in the valley to collect the chips as they fall.

oldbogie, i already attempted to describe what caused the rocker stud to become gouged, perhaps i wasnt clear enough. i tried to get a good picture of it but its difficult to do. the slot is not oval like it should be on a normal rocker. the slot of this rocker resembles a kidney bean.
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Old 09-05-2007, 07:50 PM
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70 Camaro Z28 LT1 studs

barnym17, do you or anyone else have the Part number for the studs and/ or where I can get them?
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:13 PM
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I just went to the local parts house and got them for a 1970 camaro z-28, I know speedway motors sells them also.www.speedwaymotors.com
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:28 PM
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They're available as a set from Summit (Mr. Gasket parts) or may be available from a local NAPA or other good quality parts house.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Or, you may be able to purchase one only from your local Chevy dealer parts department. I'm sure they've had to deal with this problem more than once.
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