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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 07:54 PM
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45mins - hour

we are supersizing the Mig wire....12.5 lb spool the normal spools are about 2 lbs








this piece fought me the entire way in making it fit


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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmillermatic View Post
Im impressed. Where you didnt have rust through the metal is actually okay...thats great...good to know...Im not so paranoid now about the trailer in some of those inaccessible spots.....

oh, meant to ask you...what are you using for rust converter and is that a magnet (not a magnate, thats a rich dude), that holds your ground clamp?

was that you with the clever idea to use a length of copper wire under the ground clamp also for a better ground?

good stuff.

JP
the weld wire is called "the best ground trick " or something like that and is just copper battery cable stripped and folded over and held in a vise and then just wound tight, you wrap the ends in tape so you dont get poked and i got the idea from the internet and it works great. the idea is that there is so many different heights within the coiled wire tha you are guaranteed to get a good ground. that rust converter is called jasco from lowes $7 a qt.

and yes that is ground magnet from HF for $8 or something like that, it has a floating ground with a spring on it. it works great for areas like trunk floors that have no area to ground them
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
you can use a magnet from a cheap CB antenna ,used on for years ,don't need any thing else.
sorry, last question about other stuff.....one would still have to grind down and contact bare metal, right?


thanks


JP
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2013, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmillermatic View Post
sorry, last question about other stuff.....one would still have to grind down and contact bare metal, right?


thanks


JP
yes its a a round circle magnet with a hole cut out of it, think of a 3" x 1/2" flat donut.....then there is the metal case that surrounds it and in the donut hole area is a floating copper or maybe brass ground stud. think of an upside down bolt with the head end down and a spring around the shaft. the bolt threaded end goes through the metal case and the two lock nuts on the outside let you adjust the depth of the bolt head incase you work on irregular surfaces and the ground clamps to the threaded shaft.

you just surface grind the area so the ground stud gets a good contact and the magnet holds it in place.

heres a link
http://www.harborfreight.com/magneti...ock-30754.html
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2013, 07:18 PM
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about 90 mins or so...cleaned up the area around the chassis and removed some felt padding, rear shocks and what was left of the axle straps



the base of operations for the chassis rebuild



home for the time being









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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 01:40 PM
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a couple of hours today removing the floor boards...an un envialbe task by any definition













[



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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 01:42 PM
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Reckon that chassis would be safe even after repairing it ?
That´s a load of tinworm there.
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 01:44 PM
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Yikes, you are a braver man than I. It's awesome to know there's someone out there saving stuff that would normally get cut up, scrapped, parted or crushed.
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 02:15 PM
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thanks for the info on the magnet and rust converter.

Looks like the main frame rails are okay....just the floor board supports that look like they are history....you certainly are brave...but that little car is worth it!...great looking project.

JP
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 06:10 PM
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thks guys remember i really like the metal fabrication aspects. the frame is 14 gauge steel totally boxed and very strong these areas that are rusted out are typical on the MGA and very easily repairable, compared to some this is not much damage at all. mostly the rust areas are on the floor board supports which were 16 ga and are not structural at all. the floor board supports hold the plywood flooring.... yes plywood flooring. i dont think i saw many spots on the outside frame rails that are a problem. i guess the other thing to consider is that all the rust happend over the 30 yrs that the car was just sitting around ...so its not like the frame has been flexed from driving around and has distorted. other British cars of this era used 16 ga steel for frames which is really thin 50 yrs later...remember these cars are also really light

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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2013, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 37ford4dr View Post
thks guys remember i really like the metal fabrication aspects. the frame is 14 gauge steel totally boxed and very strong these areas that are rusted out are typical on the MGA and very easily repairable, compared to some this is not much damage at all. mostly the rust areas are on the floor board supports which were 16 ga and are not structural at all. the floor board supports hold the plywood flooring.... yes plywood flooring. i dont think i saw many spots on the outside frame rails that are a problem. i guess the other thing to consider is that all the rust happend over the 30 yrs that the car was just sitting around ...so its not like the frame has been flexed from driving around and has distorted. other British cars of this era used 16 ga steel for frames which is really thin 50 yrs later...remember these cars are also really light
I'm sure the cars structurally sound, you've just a got a bit of work ahead of you with patching. I admire you greatly for taking it on with a smile, though
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:22 AM
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about 2hrs today , i needed a little sense of accomplishment so i removed the trans tunnel, wirebrushed the frame and painted some of it with Jasco rust converter





wire brushed certain parts



painted with the rust coverter





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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2013, 03:04 PM
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about 3 hrs today

removed engine and power washed the rest of the frame



if you have an engine stand that fights getting the legs pinned let the leg hangs over the garage apron so the wheels dont touch




little joe


yours truly





grab the beast by the tail






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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2013, 04:38 PM
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well as you know I am tearing away at the frame and thinking about what I am going to do to the engine while I have it out....so the car sat for 35 yrs....and the engine did not rotate when I got it. so last summer/fall I soaked the cylinders in trans fluid for a week and then got it to rotate by hand and then later I started it up . it has run maybe 45 mins-1hr total, it ran well and didnt burn oil. the first two tests were before the engine ever started. three and four were done today and the engine hasnt run in 6 or 7 months I would guess

first test (cold) results after the engine rotated #1 # 2 #3 #4
90 60 110 90

second test (cold) after doing the first test 105 105 130 115


third test (cold) after about 45mins -1 hr run time 163 160 140 162

fourth test immediate following third test 165 160 140 162

fifth test with some oil in #3 155


so the first two tests arent really worth beans because I could see the PSI increase with every compression stroke. I recall # 3 had the exhaust valve open and I know I saw some "seeds and nuts" in there. so I guess probably some mouse pee has fouled the cylinder walls. the question is will they repair them selves from the engine running??? what do you think?

heres some info if you ever wanted to know more about compression tests results

Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2013, 07:43 PM
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Mouse pee is like nothing else on this planet....especially when mixed with nuts, fiberglass and shop towels....I think the Egyptians used to use this very mixture for embalming...Mummies have stayed in tact for thousands of years with the stuff....

Your cylinder walls, I think, should be fine...with enough running and maybe some oil treatment, it may resolve itself. As long as the mouse mixture did not pit the walls too badly....

JP
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