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-   -   Restoration Job question - paint/clearcoat (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/restoration-job-question-paint-clearcoat-202750.html)

spaulgal 07-27-2011 10:24 AM

Restoration Job question - paint/clearcoat
 
Hello all--

We recently purchased a great piece of an old Hollywood studio. It is a large camera crane from the 1940. Unfortunately, it was kept outside for years and looked beat

I just restored the "Boom Arm" section which was all brass, iron and, aluminum. That part now looks incredible. Now, I need to "cart" section. It kinda looks like the chariots used on Ben-Hur!

Most of it is heavy gauge steel -- very craft-fully put together. The previous owner tried to restore this part of it and used Rustoleum Glossy Enamel on it and cleared it with PlastiKote Lacquer. It looks ok, but flat - it doesn't pop.

So what should I do? I was going to try to used the 2-part Glamour ClearCoat overtop of the Lacquer. The other option is to remove all the paint and lacquer and start over.

This will be a showpiece for us - we are a movie production company and will use this in our lobby.

Thanks

Steve

MARTINSR 07-27-2011 10:40 AM

When I hear the description of your project the first thing I think of is sand blast, epoxy primer then a urethane SS or a urethane bc/cc. Sounds very cool by the way.

Brian

spaulgal 07-27-2011 10:45 AM

You don't think there's anyway to salvage the portion that is already done?

It actually looks decent - but very little gloss. CC over won't work?

BarryK 07-27-2011 11:00 AM

I agree with Brian 100%.

However, will add this.
Since I ASSuME this will always be indoors?? You could gray scuff pad the lacquer clear and coat with a urethane clear and would most likely last for years, if this would be outdoors, then it will not last and should not be done.

witty73 07-27-2011 11:14 AM

My thought is that the Plasticote laquer was a semi gloss or even perhaps a satin. His intentions were good, but probably not the right product. Or, if it was a full gloss product, it may not have the UV protection of true clear coat and has dulled. You could try waxing it, but for longevity purposes I would probably clear it.

First thing I would do is take a scotch brite to an inconspicuous area and scuff it a little so it is real dull. Then I would shoot a couple of wet coats of CC on it and let it dry. This should give you a good indication of what it will look like going that route. If you are satisfied with the results, once the "test area" has sufficiently cured, I would scuff the whole thing and clear it.

If you are not satisfied with the end result, I would scuff the whole thing, making sure to sand out any imperfections with paper. If it is rusted, you may need to sandblast, but chances are if it is not you can just scuff the whole thing nice and dull. Cover any exposed metal areas with gray or preferably black primer, shoot two coats of black base coat and then clear it. Good luck

spaulgal 07-27-2011 11:51 AM

Should I try to shoot with a 2-part CC with hardener?
Will I likely get more lasting results?

Yes, this will be mostly indoors (besides occasional events - where is might be outside as a centerpiece)
It will be in an exposed area with lots of windows

Steve

witty73 07-27-2011 11:54 AM

Have you used clear coats in the past? If you have, I would use what you are comfortable with. Any clear is going to have the same basic effect when you are finished. The difference alot of times is what kind of environment you are working in, what kind of equipment you have, etc. HVLP gun or Firehose? If it was me, I would use a high quality, catalyzed automotive clear coat.

At the auto parts store, ask for a clear coat that has a slow, or standard reducer. I wouldnt suggest anything with a fast reducer or hardener as it speeds up dry time. It may take you a little longer, but I think if you use a cc with a slower dry time you wont find yourself rushing to finish. Myself, once I start to rush because its drying to quick on me, I start to fight sags and runs.

spaulgal 07-27-2011 12:12 PM

I'm no pro, but I've used 2-part Glamour Clearcoat with very good results.
I'll give it a try over the rustoleum/lacquer after a scuff and see how it looks.

There are a few other small parts that need painting. The axel, wheels, etc.
The best way to match is to use the same paint. Can I use Rustoleum as the base and the Glamour CC over (skipping the lacqeur)?
Or should I try to color match with enamel?

MARTINSR 07-27-2011 12:26 PM

My experience in these things brings me to the sand blasting suggestion for more than just one reason. One of these reasons is that often these things have been painted a number of times, often with very poor paint. So this is what you may have under all that. The other thing that I have seen is that because it has been painted a few times (possibly) detail has been lost under all that paint. When you sand blast it and paint it, it often will "pop" much more, often blown away "pop" that was buried before.

Brian


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