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Old 03-06-2012, 06:37 PM
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retorqueing head gaskets

if i torque a head gasket down on da stand.neva crank engine, jus on stand.can u take head off & reuse same gasket?its jus a regular felpro gasket
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:00 PM
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i sure wouldnt. new gaskets are maybe $100.00 ? whats it worth to you to redo them again while its in the car ? new gaskets are cheap insurance i say.and for the "retorque", this is how we do it here and have never had a blowout in 25 years and i cant count how many motors...start with new quality head gaskets-like felpro blue stripes, cometics, etc... not the cheapy parts store ones. make sure everything is 'medically clean'. lay the gaskets down dry, drop the head straight on--no sliding around ! torque it in steps ( for example--90lb final torque reading, we do it to 45lbs, 65lbs, 90lbs.and do them all progressivley ! in other words, EACH bolt goes to 45lbs in order. then each bolt goes to 65lbs in order. then each bolt goes to 90lbs in order--not 45/65/90 on one bolt, then the next one...they ALL get 45 lbs in the correct order-then they all get 65lbs in order, then all get 90lbs in order. know what i mean ? ) following the correct sequence for your particular motor,with DRY headbolts. now do the other side. go have lunch or something,and when you come back take out ONLY 1 bolt ( again following the proper sequence ) and coat the threads with grey bolt prep, ultra copper, whatever your favorite is--and retorque in steps again to the max reading. then the next bolt, the next bolt, and so on till you did them all--again, only one at a time in the proper sequence. repeat for the other side. we usually go back over them all again one more time at the max rating just to be sure--and because i am paranoid. for blind bolt holes, same deal but use oil or arp lube on the threads--but still do the 1 at a time deal. mark the bolts before the second retorque and you will be suprised to see how much more the bolts go in ! ( usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn more . ) we have always done it this way, and as i said i have never had one blow--on everything from a stock 3.8 litre buick to a nasty 700hp full roller 468 chevy, and everything in between . good luck, and aloha.....
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:10 PM
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatguy
i sure wouldnt. new gaskets are maybe $100.00 ? whats it worth to you to redo them again while its in the car ? new gaskets are cheap insurance i say.and for the "retorque", this is how we do it here and have never had a blowout in 25 years and i cant count how many motors...start with new quality head gaskets-like felpro blue stripes, cometics, etc... not the cheapy parts store ones. make sure everything is 'medically clean'. lay the gaskets down dry, drop the head straight on--no sliding around ! torque it in steps ( for example--90lb final torque reading, we do it to 45lbs, 65lbs, 90lbs.and do them all progressivley ! in other words, EACH bolt goes to 45lbs in order. then each bolt goes to 65lbs in order. then each bolt goes to 90lbs in order--not 45/65/90 on one bolt, then the next one...they ALL get 45 lbs in the correct order-then they all get 65lbs in order, then all get 90lbs in order. know what i mean ? ) following the correct sequence for your particular motor,with DRY headbolts. now do the other side. go have lunch or something,and when you come back take out ONLY 1 bolt ( again following the proper sequence ) and coat the threads with grey bolt prep, ultra copper, whatever your favorite is--and retorque in steps again to the max reading. then the next bolt, the next bolt, and so on till you did them all--again, only one at a time in the proper sequence. repeat for the other side. we usually go back over them all again one more time at the max rating just to be sure--and because i am paranoid. for blind bolt holes, same deal but use oil or arp lube on the threads--but still do the 1 at a time deal. mark the bolts before the second retorque and you will be suprised to see how much more the bolts go in ! ( usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn more . ) we have always done it this way, and as i said i have never had one blow--on everything from a stock 3.8 litre buick to a nasty 700hp full roller 468 chevy, and everything in between . good luck, and aloha.....

Hey thefatguy! Just a question on your method, for a SBC where there are bolts that go into the water jacket, do you use thread sealer on the threads and they the grey goop on the shoulder and underside of the bolt head? How do you keep it from leaking?
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:25 PM
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yes i use arp bolts but my problem was i didnt line da head gaskets 2 da block & dats y i.wanted 2 take da head back up.gud thing, i had a late model.gasket on an early model blicj.it was blockin da water jackets.but i was told as long as u dnt put any heat 2 them u can retorque them.i had 2 get new ones anyway tho
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:32 AM
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retork'n

bottom line is u can do what u feel will work...BUT... if u reuse the gaskets and put then engine in and u have a leak !!! how many times will u be try'n to kick u'r self in the butt cause its a major pain now to replace... felpro gaskets don't cost alot, and i use red RTV on studs going into water jacket. just don't goop it up, its a tight fit so u don't need much..
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:45 AM
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ur rite delawarebill.i actually am jus building my 3rd motor & i learned all i knw off watching videos on horespower tv.& askin ppl questions.no.school & no handson training & no one in my family eva had a car wit a performance cam.no info 2 handed 2 me.jus da will & determination 2 wanna do so.i ask deez questions 2 learn & i thank anyone who shares a lil knowledge wit me!!
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:08 AM
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Head gaskets are way cheaper than $100. Heck you can get a whole upper end gaket set from Felpro for $35! Why take a chance when odd are it might or might not work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-HS7733SH2/
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