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retrofit roller lifters???????

4K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  edge 
#1 · (Edited)
i want to put a hyd roller cam and lifters in a pre 87 cbc chevy so i was checking the knowledge base and i found a site i think it was a crane cam web page or something.

anyway it says they have retrofit roller lifters w/a locking bar design for pre 87 blocks

i thaught the 87 and older blocks couldn't use roller lifters due to there height :confused: . so how can a little "magic" locking bar make them work in a pre 87 block

would someone clarify this a little bit for me?

oh it's crane cam part #11532-16

thanx J
 
#4 ·
i thaught the 87 and older blocks couldn't use roller lifters due to there height :confused: . so how can a little "magic" locking bar make them work in a pre 87 block

would someone clarify this a little bit for me?
thanx for the info so far, but this is my actual question that i'm trying to get answer to

thanx again J
 
#8 ·
Jesse:
I posted the picture because I thought it would answer your question. The "retrofit" lifters are made to work in older blocks, that is why they are literally called "retrofit'".

The retrofit roller lifters with the little bar are what is installed in my older block, in the picture above. They are manufactured tall enough to allow clearance for the bar as either lifter in the pair is riding up and down in the bore. There are no conflicts and the bar keeps the lifters from spinning. And yes, the pushrod is only 7.300", 1/2" shorter than a flat tappet cam, so therefore, the lifter must be 1/2" taller. I use Trick Flows #21407300 5/16 in., 7.300 in. length, chromemoly pushrods. They are very strong, cost effective and work great.

engineczar said:
Those lifters are fine for a pre-87 block, make sure you use a cam button to keep the cam from moving forward.
Good point. I like the nylon button made by Comp Cams (see picture below). Also, because the cam will want to walk and the button must be used, I invested in a solid, two-piece cover from Comp Cams. It is very stable (won't flex), has a plug for measuring end play with a dial, and allows for cam changes without disturbing the oil pan.



If you go hyd. roller, you will not disappointed. For me, the piece of mind of not losing another cam was worth the investment. Good luck, Ed
 
#9 ·
oh ok i see now the little locking bar keeps them from moving around :cool:

this might sound funny but i thaught they were just for deceration

so my last question is: does the little nylon button at the end of the cam press against the timing cover to hold the cam in place?

i really like that timing chain cover you got that from comp cams too? do you know the part#?

J
 
#10 ·
jesse01 said:
so my last question is: does the little nylon button at the end of the cam press against the timing cover to hold the cam in place?

i really like that timing chain cover you got that from comp cams too? do you know the part#?
Since a roller cam cannot preload the cam and keep it from walking forward, the button is clearanced to allow a very small amount of movement. The steel roller bearing type buttons (example here) are shimmed and the nylon button (Comp P/N 202) is sanded on the bigger flat side. If the button was not installed, the cam would walk forward and wipe out the lifters.

The Comp Cam part number is for the timing cover is P/N 210. It is $220.00 at Summit :sweat:

But if decide to get a cover "like that", be sure to check out a knock-off from CVR. It is only $180.00 at Doug Herbert Performance. There is not a picture available, but it is P/N CVRTC2350P. The P at the end means "polished". It is also available in R "red" and B "black".

Good luck, Ed
 
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