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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2007, 03:44 PM
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Matching them to the bores is not necessary.

Only you can tell how each one looks and feels. If you take them apart and clean good and they are ok, go for it!

one a side note here, I have a good buddy that bought a new Chevy truck back in '96. I believe it is a roller cam engine. He has well over 240,000 miles and NEVER been apart. Trans is original too. (4L80E)

Mark

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Old 09-04-2007, 06:16 PM
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Okay, so if I use these lifters, can I get away with a cam that costs maybe like $250 or less? What will I want for a cam that goes in my engine? Its a 355 with hyperutectic pistons, stock resized rods, the machined vortec heads from summit for $390 a piece assembled with a max valve lift of .550 in. and valve sizes 1.94 and 1.5, and a 700 cfm carb? I dont know what im using for a tranny yet, but the engine will got in a s10 for the street and strip. I want as much hp and torque as possible, with the car still being drivable on the road.

Last edited by awoodman; 09-04-2007 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 09-05-2007, 02:07 PM
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can anyone help me out? Id like to order the cam today if possible. Thanks
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Old 09-05-2007, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awoodman
can anyone help me out? Id like to order the cam today if possible. Thanks

Do you know the compression ratio of the pistons in relation to the heads? Are they dished, flat top or domed?

What trans are you going to use and what rear end gears? Do you have any emission testing where you live?

Knowing a little more will help steer you towards a good cam selection.

Maybe someone can comment on This cam on eBay. It's a new takeout from a crate engine. Guy has 5 listed. ABout half the price of the Comp or Crane.

Mark

Last edited by Jmark; 09-05-2007 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 09-05-2007, 03:45 PM
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My compression ratio will be right in the 9.75-10:1 range. I dont have head gaskets yet, so I can be anywhere in that range depending on what gasket I choose. Flat top pistons with 4 valve releifs, -5cc piston head. I plan on building the engine first, then getting a tranny and rear end. No emission testing that I know of..
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Old 09-05-2007, 04:20 PM
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every one of the cam mfgr/grinders websites has a "how to select a camshaft" page of information...

crane/comp/isky/lunati/howards/erson/etc/etc/etc...

on this comp link, click on each of the dyno graghs to see the details of the build, roller cams are the bottem section.....you want a cam with atleast 15"HG at 800rpm idle and hp peak around 5500 for a typical "street/strip" build

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/DynoSheets/

use the Knowledge Base link, at the top of this page....under engines/camshafts

Last edited by red65mustang; 09-05-2007 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 09-05-2007, 04:33 PM
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The roller cam I have is still for sale, less than half the price you`ll pay for a new one. Roller lifters can be reused, so can roller cams. Your looking at over $250 for just the cam itself. And the next lesson for today is, make sure you get the matching springs for the cam you get, you cannot use flat tappet springs on a roller cam. Whatever cam you get, get the springs that cam company recommends. While it can be confusing, whoever your ordering from will pawn flat tappet springs off on you and say "these are good for .600 lift! they`ll work great on the roller cam!" wrong, the fast opening and closing of a roller cam laughs at flat tappet springs and will create coil bind as well as early valve float in which both will result in failure.
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:58 PM
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Well how do I tell what the springs on those modded vortec heads from summit are meant for? What do most budget builds for around 400hp with a 350 have for lifters? Roller or flat tappet? Either way, im going hydraulic.
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