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Old 03-25-2009, 07:59 PM
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Reverse cooling a gen 1 SBC?

Can it be done and be streetable? Does anyone have any pictures or experiences to share? looking to be able to keep iron heads and run at 10.8:1 on pump gas without knocking the timing way back.

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Old 03-25-2009, 11:48 PM
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Not really... all SBC water pumps are designed to flow one direction regardless of which way they spin. To get a traditional SBC to work with reverse flow cooling kinda requires a bit of re-engineering. You can't spin a water pump backwards, so you would have to engineer a water pump that flows the opposite direction (not just spins the opposite direction).

Too late to think about the rest
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxman267
Can it be done and be streetable? Does anyone have any pictures or experiences to share? looking to be able to keep iron heads and run at 10.8:1 on pump gas without knocking the timing way back.
Yes, but it's God awful complex.

I'll lay it out tomorrow if you're dying to know, don't have time right now.

Bogie
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:35 PM
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Check with AutomotiveBreath about singh grooves.
Shane
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:40 PM
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build it with 10.4:1 with proper quench and call it good.
You'd be going to a lot lot lot of trouble for nothing.
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:03 AM
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Building a better cooling system isn't for nothing. Yea, it can be a PITA taht is not necessarily needed, but it can show some bennefit.

In most cases you're best off dropping the compression a half point and running it as noted though.
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:41 AM
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Try this link- the final word in cooling

Try this link from Stewart Components:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_6.htm

Look into what Stewart Components calls a "strategic cooling system" and the pros and cons of traditional and reverse cooling.

Read through all their tech tips, and you'll be up to speed on performance cooling.

For a SBC, short story- introduce pressurized water into the hottest points of the engine- the exhaust valve seats- especially between center pair of exhaust valves on each side. Drill and tap head into water jacket at all exh valves, or at least between center exh valves. Drill and tap the water pump (Stewart Stage 3 pumps already have tapped bosses)near the block mounting area. Connect water pump to head with at least #6 hose (Stewart recommneds #10; on a street car, space is tight even with #6.)
Drill and tap rear of intake manifold (use gasket as a guide to see the where water is "blocked off".) Connect the rear of intake with thermostat housing. The function of these hoses is somewhat a gray area. I believe it was Smokey Yunick who said that these hoses relieved air pockets by connecting the high points of the engine cooling jacket. Stewart's article indicates that water is moved through these hoses on aftermarket aluminum heads with smaller water jackets.

I have no experience with iron heads, but the above works on aluminum headed "Gen1" SBC with 11.7:1 comp and 93 octane street/strip car.

Last edited by novajohnb; 03-27-2009 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:15 AM
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If I were to use an external electric water pump and run a vapor return hose from the two water ports on my intake manifold, to one of the heater hose barbs on the radiator I could pump water into the thermostat housing and not worry about the system trapping air in the heads. also I would enlarge the rear water passages in the head gasket so that there would be increased water flow through the heads without risking having zones with minimal water flow.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:00 PM
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I did it...big deal

I recently converted my SBC to reverse cooling just for grins. I have it easy, with a remote electric water pump and multiple water hoses to the motor (see pic). I added manual air bleeds at the rear water ports, since air pockets can get stuck back there. Seems to work OK. I need to do some testing to see if it gives any more margin before boilover.
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