Revive the little beast within. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2010, 10:15 PM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Revive the little beast within.

Basic background on the car...

1968 4-door no-post Impala
327 w/automatic
All original, no modifications, not driven for at least 3 years.
Less than 80,000 miles on it.

I need to make a laundry list of things to gather because the car is half-way across the country.

I know that when I attempted to get it started last year that I had no voltage from the coil. It did turn over, just no fire.

I know that I probabbly need to disconnect the fuel tank so not to get any more of the stale fuel in the carb. where should I disconnect at? under the hood?

Should I waste the time now and change the oil and cooling fluids? Or wait till I get running.

I know I should probably put something down the spark plug holes but what?(I heard marvel mystery oil) and should I leave it for how long before turning it over? (i wasn't thinking last year and didn't do that, hope I didn't already screw myself)

I did open the distributor cap, and all the parts there looked to be brand new, so that should be ok.

Can I just attempt to jump it off another vehicle, without buying a battery?(i don't know when I'll be able to get it out here so I don't want to waste the money and have to do it again)

Has anyone ever done this type of project to create a daily driver? Does anyone have any other pointers on getting a old car that's been sitting running? How much money did you spend just to get it in running order, I'm not talking getting it ready for a show or the strip I just want to drive the thing, while I'm working on it, I do have other transportation, but I want to use this as the family car. My 2-door Monte just ain't gonna cut it with 2 kids.

This car before 5 years ago was always garaged, I didn't know that it wasn't or I would have had that taken care of, the car is surprisingly good shape for the age. Virtually no rust, only very little surface rust in areas that would be expected.

I'm excited about this and it's ok if you crush my dreams by telling me that I'm never gonna get this thing to be a family car because I'm doing it anyway. I just need some direction.

And sorry for rambling on and on, just excited and confused.

Thanks for any help you provide in advance.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2010, 09:59 AM
dinger's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: 36 Ford painting
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Visalia, Ca.
Age: 61
Posts: 2,697
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 97
Thanked 92 Times in 58 Posts
Try to get a decent battery, if the battery you're using is stone dead you will waste a lot of time just getting the battery to the point it will turn the engine over.

Marvel or any light oil will work in the cylinders, it won't hurt, don't overdo or you will foul the plugs.

Turn it over a few times with the coil wire disconnected, a minute or so. Then Pour a few tablespoons of gas into the carb, it should fire.

Bring an extra coil, a coil wire, and an old spark plug for testing.

If it starts and I am going to assume you;ll be running a gas can to the fuel pump, rock it in and out of first to reverse, gently. get the fluids lubricating.

Good luck and have fun. Be safe.
__________________
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:33 AM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinger
Try to get a decent battery, if the battery you're using is stone dead you will waste a lot of time just getting the battery to the point it will turn the engine over.

Marvel or any light oil will work in the cylinders, it won't hurt, don't overdo or you will foul the plugs.

Turn it over a few times with the coil wire disconnected, a minute or so. Then Pour a few tablespoons of gas into the carb, it should fire.

Bring an extra coil, a coil wire, and an old spark plug for testing.

If it starts and I am going to assume you;ll be running a gas can to the fuel pump, rock it in and out of first to reverse, gently. get the fluids lubricating.

Good luck and have fun. Be safe.
Oh, yes the battery is not useable. How much is too much out to put in the cylinder? Tablespoon or a little more? Also I don't think I understand rocking it out of gear?
It's automatic? Oh thanks so much for responding
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Springfield, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 1,092
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Took me several days to get my old pinto started after it had sat, although it had sat about 15 years instead of 3. About the only thing I'd be worried about is the gas. Todays gas just sucks, I've worked on several engines in the last couple of months that have been sitting only 2 years or so and they wouldn't run. You could smell the gas and it stunk. Change that out and they start right up. Granted these were small gas engines, (one Honda 6hp and one Briggs & Stratton 6hp on concrete troweling machines) but they were still carbed. a And then you consider that I have burned that 15 year old gas from my car (in another engine) and that tells you the quality of gas 15 years ago vs the quality of gas today.

With that said, I didnt do anything to the trowling machines other than drain the carb and fuel tank and refill with fresh fuel. On a car you might want to check the fuel pump. Ive had several mechanical fuel pumps that fail after sitting. Perhaps the diaphragms dried up and broke, or the check valves stuck. Who knows. But anyways, check the pump.

Get a new or good battery from another car - dont try to jumpstart it from another vehicle, without a battery or without a good battery. Ive never seen that work and believe me i've tried.

For the ignition problem, that thing should have points. I believe the points get their power from the starter solenoid. Check for continuity from that wire, or simply get you an HEI to drop in there (they can be had cheap, i've got one myself if you need it) and just run a wire that is hot only with the key on and thats it. That will fix you right up.

It should run then. I dont think i'd even mess with the carb or oil in the spark plug holes, altho a few CCs couldnt hurt. Maybe spray it with carb cleaner or starting fluid a few times to get it going.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:39 PM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454
For the ignition problem, that thing should have points. I believe the points get their power from the starter solenoid. Check for continuity from that wire, or simply get you an HEI to drop in there (they can be had cheap, i've got one myself if you need it) and just run a wire that is hot only with the key on and thats it. That will fix you right up.
This "drop in HEI" could you point me to a how-to or perhaps a part list? I did want to do this but didn't know if it would be worth it or not? I heard/read it was a good thing to do, but just curious on what parts are needed and how much they all cost?

and thank you for the reply.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2010, 11:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Springfield, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 1,092
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by es79
This "drop in HEI" could you point me to a how-to or perhaps a part list? I did want to do this but didn't know if it would be worth it or not? I heard/read it was a good thing to do, but just curious on what parts are needed and how much they all cost?

and thank you for the reply.
Its very easy. Pull out the old distributor and drop the new one in its place. The same rules apply for timing the distributor, but you should be able to look at where the rotor is pointing on the old distributor when you pull it out and point the rotor on the new distributor in the same spot and drop it right in.

Nothing to it. Then you just run a wire from the fuse box that is hot when the ignition switch is on, to the terminal on the HEI labeled "BAT" and thats it. Its very simple.

There is "probably" (not for certain) a wire in the fuse box already that is running to the distributor. Unhook that one and run a new wire to the distributor "BAT" terminal. I assume it needs to be somewhat heavy (like 10 or 12 gage) because everything i've ever seen has had a heavy wire on it.

All you need is the distributor, with cap and rotor and that wire to run to the fuse box.

Now I must say, just in case. that this wiring information is accurate for the trucks. The HEI just needs one hot wire from the vehicle to work, be it in a truck or a car, BUT i dont know enough about the old cars to know exactly where you get the power to go to the HEI at. My experience is only with the old chevy trucks. They have a spot in the fuse box labeled "IGN" (or ignition) and it goes directly to distributor from there. There should be something there to the distributor already but it may have a ballast resistor inline somewhere so you should run a new wire so it supplies a full 12 volts. Someone else may chime in and tell you where to run the wire if there is not an IGN spot in the fuse box.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2010, 01:17 PM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Started work...

ok I started work on the Impala today. I am getting everything checked out first and making a initial shopping list.

One question I have is that the wire from the battery to the starter gets really hot when trying to jump it, an the jumper cables get so hot you can't touch them. But I know I need a battery, but why would the starter wire get that hot. And no, I will not turn over at all, but battery only shows 10v static.

Should I get a voltage out of the coil when turning the key? if so then I get nothing. I check the resistance on the primary, and secondary but I don't know what the specs are.

any help?

here is some pics....

My 1968 Impala
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2010, 10:44 PM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ok, well I was able to get the starter off and went to the parts store for a test, and it works but really slow and not very powerful. So I got a new one and a battery, as well a new cable for the battery. I'll hook it up tomorrow and see if I can get it to crank.

Next things to worry about is the carb. I can't get the butterflies to open, primary or secondary. Well they open by pushing them with my finger but not when the pedal is pressed. It's like something is not there to make it work. It's a stock quadrajet 4 barrel. Also when I went to take the filter off the front of the carb and well the line got bent, the line never loosened from the actual filter, the filter turned before the line nut, so I'll have to get that fixed now. But I still can't get that off? I must be doing that wrong, I try to hold the filter nut with pliers, but can't get the line nut to turn.

Tomorrow is another day, I'm hopeful to get it started or at least turning over and attempting to start.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 12:41 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 595 Times in 545 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by es79
Next things to worry about is the carb. I can't get the butterflies to open, primary or secondary. Well they open by pushing them with my finger but not when the pedal is pressed. It's like something is not there to make it work. It's a stock quadrajet 4 barrel.
There should be a cable connected on one end to the accelerator pedal, the other end to the carb linkage.

Quote:
Also when I went to take the filter off the front of the carb and well the line got bent, the line never loosened from the actual filter, the filter turned before the line nut, so I'll have to get that fixed now. But I still can't get that off?
That is a common occurrence for guys new to the Q-jet (or Duojet), unfortunately. It takes a 1" open end wrench or a large crescent wrench to hold the filter housing while the 5/8" fuel line fitting is turned. Best to use a good fitting "line wrench" rather than an open end on the 5/8" fitting to reduce the chance of rounding it off.

If the twisted line is bad, you can cut and re-flare the tube on the fuel pump side and use rubber fuel hose to a replacement fuel "barb" that replaces the twisted part of the line. The end of the hard line where the rubber line is attached should be slightly flared w/a flaring tool so the hose clamp will secure it better than if the hard line were straight.

OR- use the original 5/8" fitting on a new, short piece of hard line and use that to make the connection w/a short length of rubber hose. The Q-jet only has a small pleated paper element inside the housing, so you might use this opportunity to plumb in an inline filter if you don't already have one.

Don't make the connection w/the rubber hose in such a way that there's a tight bend in it- it may be fine at first, but after time and heat, the tight bend will become a kink and won't flow. Bends are better made in the hard lines than the hose if they're sharp. The catch to this is the hard lines can kink, so use a tubing bender, or go slowly using something to bend the tubing over. For that matter, you can use copper or aluminum tubing- it's much easier to work with.

If you get a good tight fit and you can get 1.5" or more of hose pushed up over the hard line, a hose clamp will secure it OK with a 5 psi fuel pump- IMHO. A flared hard line-to-hose connection is better, a complete hard line from pump to carb is best.

If you opt to not flare the hard line, dress the ends of the tubing so that there isn't any sharp edges to cut into the rubber hose and the line has been dressed to deburr the ID. These particles can clog the needle and seat very easily.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 01:35 AM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah, at this time since I'm really mostly just accessing the car for what it will take to make a daily driver I'll opt for just a non flare fix.

I don't think I understand what you mean about the linkage on the carb. Maybe I'm not explaining correctly. On the left(driverside) where the rod from the firewall come out it's all hooked and moved accordingly but nothing moves on the rightside(passenger). It's like something is missing? I'll try to get a couple of close up pictures in the morning.

Also I searched for quadrajet on the forum but not too much came up. Is there any online diagrams for this particular carb? I was debating taking a 650 holly that is on a 65 pickup I have and trying it but, it's been sitting longer than this one and it has a manual choke so I'm not sure it's even compatible? And I don't know if it would be in any better shape? It's on a '67 283 small block so I'm guessing should work? I'll prob have to get the numbers off it to see what it's exactly for.

Thanks for your help. I was beginning to think I was talking to myself on here, lol. Thanks again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 02:11 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 595 Times in 545 Posts
---------------

Last edited by cobalt327; 07-20-2010 at 02:33 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 02:14 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Springfield, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 1,092
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327

Don't make the connection w/the rubber hose in such a way that there's a tight bend in it- it may be fine at first, but after time and heat, the tight bend will become a kink and won't flow. Bends are better made in the hard lines than the hose if they're sharp. The catch to this is the hard lines can kink, so use a tubing bender, or go slowly using something to bend the tubing over. For that matter, you can use copper or aluminum tubing- it's much easier to work with.
I cant say for sure because i've got no experience but i've always understood that you should NOT use copper or aluminum for fuel lines. Copper reacts with gasoline and corrodes (again from what ive always heard) and aluminum just corrodes from whatever and gets brittle and cracks. They've both been explained to me as being a "death wish"

This came up once when I was discussing in another forum on what to do about fuel lines for a fuel injection swap into an originally carbureted car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 02:32 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 595 Times in 545 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by es79
I searched for quadrajet on the forum but not too much came up. Is there any online diagrams for this particular carb?
HERE'S a site w/some links that should help.

Also:

http://www.smicarburetor.com/faqs#question8

http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Quadraje...anual_1981.pdf
1981 REBUILD MANUAL-

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=88376

There are hundreds of articles on every facet of the Q-jet, might just need to look harder.


Quote:
I was debating taking a 650 holly that is on a 65 pickup I have and trying it but, it's been sitting longer than this one and it has a manual choke so I'm not sure it's even compatible? And I don't know if it would be in any better shape? It's on a '67 283 small block so I'm guessing should work? I'll prob have to get the numbers off it to see what it's exactly for.
Unless the Holley 650 is a spreadbore, you'd be better of not using an adapter. Both of these carbs will probably need rebuilding, anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 03:00 PM
es79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ozark, MO
Age: 34
Posts: 34
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok well I feel like an idiot. Pretty sure the carb is working. It's been so long since I even looked at a carb I forgot what I was looking at. The front top butterfly is the choke and the secondary is on the top rear, so I know those won't open. I was overthinking stuff looking for issues, I guess.

Thanks for the links, and info. I'm sure I'll have more.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2010, 07:18 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 312
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts
"Also I don't think I understand rocking it out of gear?"

when the car starts in park just put your foot on the brake and drop it into reverse and wait for the trans to engage, then shift into drive and wait for the trans to engage. Do this several times BEFORE you try to move the car to let the trans fluid clear the lines of air.

Do check that the rear end is full of fluid. When you do move the car, back it up about 30 ft. and pull straight forward 30 ft to move the gear lube onto the gears. Be really easy with it and wide turns for a few miles to get the gear lube moving.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Rod Mag's 1973 Z28 Camaro called the beast , Bad Rat Hotrodders' Lounge 3 10-05-2009 09:24 PM
Is My Convertible Top Vinyl? How Do I Revive The Color? Amyy Interior 1 09-10-2009 08:53 PM
Editing Is My Convertible Top Vinyl, and How Do I Revive The Color? Amyy Body - Exterior 0 09-10-2009 09:20 AM
street beast Kirk Gregory Introduce Yourself 3 09-04-2008 06:49 PM
street beast Kirk Gregory Introduce Yourself 1 10-05-2007 10:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.