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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 01:13 PM
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@Chet
I flirt with these pistons: Sportsman Racing Products 139632 - SRP Small Block Chevy 350/400 Inverted Dome Top Pistons


@F-BIRD'88
piston ring end gap - my engine has a half closed cooling system (thermostat 160 deg.)
VTP (ventil-to-piston?) clearance - Edelbrock 77589 valve spring max. lift is 0.650"
blower pulley drive ratio - 1.97:1 - 5 psi boost at full throttle (on gauge)

Which cam would be your favorit?
Is this cam an option or to hot? http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...orce_507.shtml


@bentwings
AFR/EGT - I use a connecting piece (e**y 310137061646) between manifold and riser (there is it dry)


Andreas

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 08:20 PM
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I use the flat tappet version of that cam and love it. It's what I'd use were I to do another motor for myself. I use the entire Edelbrock valve train. 18k miles and no probems.

VTP= valve to piston clearance.

I use Innovate Motorsports AFR and software. It's good but there are many others. I like this one as it is real time and very fast and plays into a laptop pretty easily. they hve more extensive data recording too. More expensive too.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2012, 05:48 AM
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about cam selection:

CompCam
- 08-418--8 (LSA 112)
- 08-301--8 (LSA 113)
- 08-305--8 (LSA 114)

as I said, idle is important to maneuver in the harbor
and for low speed through the small rivers and from 3.000 rpm
to max. 5.500-5.700 rpm for high speed.
Higher LSA = better idle (during larger vacuum)?

Andreas
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88


The only thing that will brake a cast piston ( or any piston) is detonation-preignition from excessive boost and lean jetting and excessive timing and garbage fuel. Cast pistons are no problem, incorrect tuneup is the problem.

?
This is true but the forged pistons are more forgiving. It would be foolish to build a blower motor and intentionally put in cast pistons was my point.
With a blower engine it is all about the tune up for sure.
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Chet
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2012, 04:33 AM
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following parts I suggest:

Crank:
Eagle Specialty Products 435334805700 - Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshafts

Pistons (bore 4.030):
Sportsman Racing Products 139632 - SRP Small Block Chevy 350/400 Inverted Dome Top Pistons

Rings:
Sportsman Racing Products S100S8-40305 - JE Pistons Pro Seal Premium Sportsman Series Piston Rings

Cam:
CompCam
- 08-418--8 (LSA 112)?
- 08-301--8 (LSA 113)?
- 08-305--8 (LSA 114)?

Piston to cylinder wall clearance?
Ring end gaps?
Lifters?



Best regards, Andreas
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2012, 08:31 AM
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Spark plugs

Which spark plugs are recommended for mild blower use, engine thermostat 180 deg.

Brand, heat value?


Andreas
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:54 AM
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Thanks, F-BIRD'88.
My favorite is the 113 LSA.

Can I check (calculate) the VTP before buying parts?

Can you tell me a heat value?


Andreas
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:12 AM
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about wrist pin style, can I use this piston SRP-139632 (pin diameter 0.927) with this Eagle connecting rod ESP-5700BLW with pin end bore diameter 0.927 as full floating pin?

Andreas
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2012, 06:09 AM
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What is the best for the first start for the engine:
- start and 2.000 rpm or
- start and minimum idle?

How should I begin to drive with the boat,
- 20 h only at idle or
- with varying rpm's?

First engine oil change, which oil?

When it will possible for maximum speed/rpm?


Andreas
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:31 AM
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Regarding piston to cylinder-wall clearance, if it shall be 0.005'', the piston is 4.030'', the bore must be 4.035'' or 4.040''?

Andreas
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:06 AM
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Any answers? Please help.

Andreas
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:55 AM
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Hi,

now my project will continue...

I have a problem with the ARP main stud kit 234-5601.
The thread for the windage tray is to short to fix it without contact
the crankshaft.

What is possible, longer ARP studs or new windage tray with deep formed
mounting holes?


Andreas
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:55 AM
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you nee studs from arp to run the windage try.

Also did you get a new oil pump and pump shaft. I noticed it wasnt on the list.

If going roller cam be sure to use a rev kit. doesnt cost much but could be the difference between a tow home and motoring back to sure on your own. They say you can toss a push rod out and still run the motor for a short time with one installed. Very handy when you cant call AAA for a rollback. But have only used one once.

Engine should only be bored with the pistons in hand. Each cylinder should be matched to the piston. But alot of machine shops will just bore it if you ask.

That being said piston to wall clearence should be within factory specs for most blower applications. But i am not a FI expert. bore should be 4.030 pistons will be smaller until they heat up. Size for a piston is measured at the skirt. not the head or ring lands. so .030 pistons will actually be a little smaller when they heat up they will be at the corect size. So the clearance is added to allow the engine to still run once its hot.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
you nee studs from arp to run the windage try.
if you google "arp 234-5601" you will see that the kit is for using with windage tray...

...that's my problem


Andreas
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:36 AM
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Cant help on that one Sorry. I know you can buy a windage try that calls for the bolts you have cheaper than new bolts usally. Windage try is usally only 15-25 bucks. bolts can be alot more.
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