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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 09:23 AM
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You need to accurately measure the rod small end diameter. And the actual pin diameter ... Probably needs to be honed for the required pin/pin hole clearance.
to run as a floater It should be a press fit now,, no?

No benefit to full floaters on your build. unless you plan on frequent tear-downs.

I'd go with press fit. Keep it simple.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2012, 05:09 AM
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What is the best for the first start for the engine:
- start and 2.000 rpm or
- start and minimum idle?

How should I begin to drive with the boat,
- 20 h only at idle or
- with varying rpm's?

First engine oil change, which oil?

When it will possible for maximum speed/rpm?


Andreas
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2012, 06:31 AM
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Regarding piston to cylinder-wall clearance, if it shall be 0.005'', the piston is 4.030'', the bore must be 4.035'' or 4.040''?

Andreas
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:06 AM
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Any answers? Please help.

Andreas
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 02:55 AM
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Hi,

now my project will continue...

I have a problem with the ARP main stud kit 234-5601.
The thread for the windage tray is to short to fix it without contact
the crankshaft.

What is possible, longer ARP studs or new windage tray with deep formed
mounting holes?


Andreas
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 09:55 AM
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you nee studs from arp to run the windage try.

Also did you get a new oil pump and pump shaft. I noticed it wasnt on the list.

If going roller cam be sure to use a rev kit. doesnt cost much but could be the difference between a tow home and motoring back to sure on your own. They say you can toss a push rod out and still run the motor for a short time with one installed. Very handy when you cant call AAA for a rollback. But have only used one once.

Engine should only be bored with the pistons in hand. Each cylinder should be matched to the piston. But alot of machine shops will just bore it if you ask.

That being said piston to wall clearence should be within factory specs for most blower applications. But i am not a FI expert. bore should be 4.030 pistons will be smaller until they heat up. Size for a piston is measured at the skirt. not the head or ring lands. so .030 pistons will actually be a little smaller when they heat up they will be at the corect size. So the clearance is added to allow the engine to still run once its hot.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
you nee studs from arp to run the windage try.
if you google "arp 234-5601" you will see that the kit is for using with windage tray...

...that's my problem


Andreas
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:36 AM
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Cant help on that one Sorry. I know you can buy a windage try that calls for the bolts you have cheaper than new bolts usally. Windage try is usally only 15-25 bucks. bolts can be alot more.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2012, 01:56 PM
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Get the Milodon diamond scraper and the proper bolt kit for it
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:37 AM
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New problems...

Can someone explain the difference between these oilpumps:
- Melling 10550 with 0.625 pickup diameter (my new one)
- GM 12555281 with 0.750 pickup diameter (my old one)

What should I install and why?


Andreas
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 07:32 AM
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Hi, the engine is almost ready to run...

Can anybody tell me, how I can determine the right engine oil level?
Pan and dipstick are new, the engine is already closed.


Andreas
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 12:18 PM
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Just remember folks that the 95 octane in Europe that is quoted is only rated using Research Octane, which is not as detonation resistant as North American high octane 91 octane which is Research Octane PLUS Motor Octane DIVIDED by 2.

There is a fuel called "Euro-Super or Euro Premium which has a Research Octane Number (RON) of 95 which it is advertised in Europe as "95 octane". This same fuel has a Motor Octane Number(MON) of 85-86. So this same fuel using the North American rating system which is(RON + MON)/2=AKI(Anti Knock Index) is actually 90-90.5 AKI.

European Euro-Super
95 RON
85-86 MON
90-90.5 using AKI or (RON+MON)/2=AKI

So if we are talking about using a German fuel which is rated at 95 octane RON, it is actually around 90 (R+M)/2 or North American AKI. This is considered mid-grade in MANY North American areas.

Up here in Canada we can get Petro-Canada "Ultra 94" which is rated at:
101.5 RON
88 MON
94 AKI or (R+M)/2


On European 95 RON which is being bought at marinas, I would suggest running forged pistons, conservative timing advance and conservative static compression ratios. Then you have a nice safety margin and can run your blower with confidence.

peace
Hog
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 12:27 PM
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oops sorry, I made my comment while still reading on page#2.

Congrats on your engine being closed up and ready for start up..

If your pickup is spaced to the correct spec from the bottom of the pan(1/4" to 3/8" according to Milodon).

I would fill the oil filter with oil, then put 4 more liters in the pan and see where it is on the stick.
Depends on what pan you used.

peace
Hog
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyy View Post
Hi, the engine is almost ready to run...

Can anybody tell me, how I can determine the right engine oil level?
Pan and dipstick are new, the engine is already closed.


Andreas
Getting the real oil fill level in the oil pan is critical. Get this right before fireing the engine. Even if you have to take the oil pan back off.

Too much oil in the pan (especially a stock oil pan) is just as bad or worse than
too little oil. Even 1/2 a Qt too much oil causes oil pressure issues at RPM.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 04:38 AM
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Thanks, Hog and F-Bird'88.

Have anybody the right dimension between the bottom of engine block and the surface oil level? This could help.

Some pictures from my marine beast...
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