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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 09:28 AM
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The pinion is out and Iīve taken the inner bearing off, Iīll hog that out a tad and use it to get my pinion depth.
Axle spline check..........need new axles.....damn....

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 10:18 AM
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Be sure to do another pattern check with the new bearing before you do your final assembly. The pinion depth can change when you change the bearing. You don't want a surprise when you do the final assembly and then find that the pattern is no good anymore.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 10:31 AM
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Iīll set it up and check it as if itīs the final assembly....before I do the final assembly.
I can get the bearing off easy enough, itīd be a pain getting it pressed on again.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2013, 10:29 AM
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I have my ring gear and bearings on the carrier,
so easy with the right tools.....




Iīm having trouble getting the inner pinion bearing race out.
Iīve been using a slide hammer for hours and it wonīt budge,
the slide hammer is suffering most...
I cannot get in the front to drift it out, there is no room because of the 3"
exhaust, and I canīt remove that.

So maybe by the end of the week the axle will be out, I need hammer swinging space.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2013, 01:12 PM
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Those cars are a real pain to do rear end work while still in the car. The torque arm also gets in the way. If you have a MIG welder run a hot bead around the race and when it cools it will just about fall out.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2013, 01:16 PM
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Those cars are a real pain to do rear end work while still in the car. The torque arm also gets in the way. If you have a MIG welder run a hot bead around the race and when it cools it will just about fall out.
I have most of the oil out, itīs like "moist".
I do have a mig welder but would I be likely to set the lot on fire ?

With the axle out, which Iīm loathe to do, I could make it all clean and pretty too...
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:50 PM
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It wont flame up, much, and works very well. I use that method to get axle bearing races out of the housing when they refuse to move and start breaking and rollers flying.
FWIW, I use an air hammer and a round 5/8" diameter chisel, about 18 inch long to drive the races out.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2013, 06:47 PM
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Do you have the rear end hanging as low as it will go? Could you disconnect the shocks to get it to hang a little lower and give you some more room to work? If you do try this just be sure that you don't pull on the brake line.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:14 AM
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Rear end is now hanging as low as it will go, panhard rod and brake line disconnected, springs out.
Itīs still on the lower trailing arms and torque arm.
Can I take the torque arm off leaving the axle on the trailing arms ?



There it is, still a bugger to get at.


I just cannot get the car higher.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:20 AM
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A friend lent me his BIG slide hammer yesterday.
This morning the sucker is out.




The Yukon shim kit is not expected at Summit until 12/30/2013
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2013, 01:49 PM
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Be sure to check the bore in the housing for burrs. If there are any burrs in the bottom of the bore the new race will not seat completely and will cause pinion depth problems, and could cause the bearing to fail early. Always check the race with a .001 feeler gauge to see if it is completely seated in the bore. Also use the feeler gauge to check the bearings to see if they are completely seated on the pinion shaft and differential case.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2013, 03:31 PM
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Summit have finally got my shims and all the parts I need are now on their way...
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2014, 11:30 AM
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Iīve almost got all the parts together, waiting on gear marking compound.
Iīll also need some blue skies too.

Iīm pretty sure my axle splines are okay, just a tad shiny on the push side.


Are these bearing cups pinned, my manual tells me they should be held in by plastic and a shove will get them out ?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2014, 12:22 PM
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The axles wear on the other end where the bearings run on them. That's where you need to check them.

Use a torch to heat the yoke around the caps. This will cause most of the plastic to shoot out the little holes on the sides. Then you can press them out.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
The axles wear on the other end where the bearings run on them. That's where you need to check them.

Use a torch to heat the yoke around the caps. This will cause most of the plastic to shoot out the little holes on the sides. Then you can press them out.
The axle bearing surfaces are good, shiny but not pitted.
I have new bearings and seals for the axle ends too.

If I can remove the emergency brake cable where it goes through the backing plate , the axle is coming out.
It looks like one of those fittings where removal could destroy it.
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