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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2014, 09:58 AM
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"Pinion has a depth number on it, but I haveīnt a clue how to read it."

My measurement was 0.529, to be subtracted from 2.842 on the pinion tool.
That gets me 2.313, which is useless when I see what is marked up on the pinion by the manufacturer.
I was expecting a measurement not what appears to be a part number 13B042.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2014, 12:00 PM
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Not all manufacturers mark the pinion depth on the gear. This is another reason that I never use a pinion depth tool. Just start with the shim that was on the original pinion and do a pattern check. Make adjustments by what the pattern tells you.

Ring gear bolts torque to 70 foot pounds, not 90.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2014, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
Not all manufacturers mark the pinion depth on the gear. This is another reason that I never use a pinion depth tool. Just start with the shim that was on the original pinion and do a pattern check. Make adjustments by what the pattern tells you.

Ring gear bolts torque to 70 foot pounds, not 90.
Iīve seen 65 too but I took 90 from my Chilton manual.
You need gorilla arms to pull 90....
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2014, 12:16 PM
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Chilton is wrong, it's 70. 65 will work too. Just be sure to use the red Locktite on the bolts.

Waite until you start compressing the crush spacer. It takes around 300 foot pounds for that.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
Chilton is wrong, it's 70. 65 will work too. Just be sure to use the red Locktite on the bolts.

Waite until you start compressing the crush spacer. It takes around 300 foot pounds for that.
Iīm going to use a pinion bearing spacer kit.
Iīve also got a pretty big torque wrench thatīll give me leverage.

Off to the tire dealer, he might have a left handed torque wrench
for the ring gear bolts.
Iīve got red Locktite too.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2014, 09:12 AM
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He had the tool and now the ring gear bolts are Loctited and tight.

I have the pinion in with checking bearings tightened just enough to take up slack.
The diff is in and loosely shimmed, this is my first pass with the marking compound.


Couldīnt find any match in the two books I have but Iīm guessing the ring gear has to move away from the pinion a tad.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2014, 09:46 AM
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Pinion is way too deep. Take about .010 out of the pinion shim and try again. Be sure that you have the bearing preload and backlash set correctly each time you check it. If the pinion bearing preload is not set the same each time then the pinion depth will not be accurate.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2014, 09:58 AM
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There was one original pinion shim, which I used as a starting point per your advise.
Itīs pretty thin, didīnt measure it, will do so tomorrow.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:16 AM
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It should be around .030. Before you change the shim be sure that you have the bearing preload set to about 20 inch pounds. If you don't then set the preload and do another pattern check with this shim. Also be sure that the bearing race and bearing are completely seated. I don't know how many times someone has run into problems, only to find out that there was a burr or something keeping the bearing race from seating completely.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:51 AM
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With pinion preload set to 20inch pounds, I finally got to this, after several shim changes on the pinion.
This pretty much matches an acceptable example in my Diff. book.
Backlash is 0.040.

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Old 01-14-2014, 06:03 AM
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You say that backlash is .040. Is that correct or did you mix up the numbers? .040 backlash is WAY too much.

The pattern doesn't look too bad, but it's too far toward the heel of the tooth. The depth looks about right. What does the coast side look like? You must check both, drive and coast patterns.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:13 AM
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0.040 was a typo....shoulda been 0.0040.

To say I verged on madness today would be..........about right.
I think Iīve run out of shim combinations totally....

Finally I got these patterns on drive and coast with 0.005 backlash.
Correct backlash is 0.005-0.009.

Drive


Coast



This is from my book,
 Differentials by Jim Allen & Randy Lyman. Differentials by Jim Allen & Randy Lyman.

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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2014, 02:23 PM
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Are you turning it with the pinion or with an axle? If you are turning it with the pinion then stop and use an axle to turn it. The pattern will be more clear and easier to read. The coast pattern doesn't look like it wiped away enoug compound. Stick an axle in it and turn it about 6 times in both directions and see if the pattern becomes easier to read.

You may be close, but I don't want to tell you if it is or not with the pattern looking like that.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2014, 11:50 PM
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Iīm turning it with the pinion while putting drag on the ring gear.

To use an axle Iīll have to pretty much rebuild the whole thing.

I find that once the pinion has compound on it it tends to transfer back to the ring gear.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2014, 06:11 AM
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I don't understand why you have to pretty much rebuild the whole thing to use an axle. I've done several hundred of them that way. When you have the differential installed and the backlash is set just stick and axle in it and turn it.
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