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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2014, 02:55 PM
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Herīs how it looks on the drive side.


Itīs all back together now, 15inlbs on the pinion....smooth as silk it is.

Tomorrow it goes back under the car.

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 03:40 AM
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The axle has been back in the car.....now itīs out again.
Still whining.
So, taking a look at the pinion bearings because I think in my first attempt
I overdid the pre load.
Any comments ?

Large bearing.


Large Bearing race inside.


Large Bearing race outside.


Small Bearing.


Small Bearing race.


This should all go back together with zippers or velcro...
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 06:51 AM
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Were those new bearings when you built this? If they were then that looks like a lot of wear for such a short amount of time. If they were used then they should have been replaced.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 08:25 AM
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We use smaller tapered roller bearings in gearboxes and I'm inclined to agree with Professor BGH. If those are used, they should have been scrapped; if they are new, well at least youre getting good at this. Chin up Malc! You're doing great and we'll beat this!
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 09:28 AM
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They were brand spanking new Timken bearings.
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 06:11 PM
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What was the foamy green stuff that you put in there originally? Might have something to do with the bearing appearance.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2014, 10:50 PM
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I may have missed it. Does the rear whine all the time, on deceleration or acceleration? Did you apply a little drag on the carrier when you were marking the contact pattern? I have had richmond gears that made noise. Did you make the crush sleeve eliminator?
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 03:15 AM
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The foaming was caused by the gear marking compound,
next time Iīl get it all off the gears.

I used a crush sleeve eliminator the first time....wonīt use one again, itīs iffy if you areīnt experienced.
Iīm using this Ratech crush sleeve.



I applied drag to the crown wheel when doing the contact pattern.

Iīm pretty sure now I caused this by using too much preload on my first try.
New bearings should be here Monday.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 07:37 AM
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As an aside; I showed the pics to my boss and didn't tell him they were from a rear axle. His response was "improper lubricant or preload was too aggressive or not applied properly."

Just some thoughts.

Thank you for sharing your experiences with us Malc
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 07:54 AM
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Since all of us cannot watch what you are doing. Can you elaborate on how you come up with your bearing preload measurment? The process which you use. With standard crush sleeves I start the crush process ever so slightly in a press before putting it in the axle. Bigger sleeves require more crushing force. This is easier on my hands. I have never used a crush sleeve like the one you pictured.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:06 PM
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I used the pinion pre load as written in my Chiltern manual and the book I bought
Differentials: Identification, Restoration & Repair - 2nd Edition Differentials: Identification, Restoration & Repair - 2nd Edition
by Randy Lyman of Randyīs Ring & Pinion.

New bearings should be set between 15 - 30 inlbs, and the first time I was on top of 30inlbs.
That must have caused the damage and when I reset the preload to 20inlbs
it wasīnt going to work with the ruined bearings and they continued to whine.

Now with the experience I have doing the crush sleeve boogy I can do it properly.
First off I tighten the pinion nut and remove all the slack, then I tighten it tiny increments at a time taking readings with the inlbs torque wrench.

I am going to shoot for 15inlbs on the new bearings.

There was plenty of oil in the diff. at all times.

This is how I tighten the pinion, this was on the floor I can also do it on the workbench.

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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 01:02 PM
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I usually go around 19 to 21 inch pounds on the pinion bearing preload. I think 15 would be a little too light. I also think that 30 is way too much. The GM manual says 35.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 11:06 PM
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Rolling torque

I am not here to start a measuring contest of any type. I know many people do it many different ways. The most accepted method is to take a rolling measurement of preload. This requires the use of a beam torque wrench. Beam style torque wrench Without the carrier installed take a reading of the resistance that the pinion provides against the wrench as it is rolling. Not to start the pinion to move. Here is a reference of the procedure.reference.

Bearings will whine if they are too loose as well.

If you are reusing the pinion nut make sure you take appropriate measures to prevent it from loosening.

Save your crush sleeve eliminator. Once you get this thing hammered out and driving right if you ever need to change a seal all you would need to do is measure the crush sleeve that you remove and shim your eliminator to match.

Good luck!
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2014, 12:05 AM
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I bought a beam type inlbs torque wrench off amazon.com, plus all the doo dads to fit it to my pinion nut socket.
I did the rolling reading too without the carrier.
In fact I thought I did the text book installation, manuals, books, videos and
replies to my thread here.

Iīm using Locktite on all threads too.

Iīm not about this at all, just gaining experience.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2014, 06:19 AM
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I wasn't saying you were about that. I didn't want to seem like I was rushing in to say you were wrong. I wanted to make sure everyone was on the same page.
Just trying to get you to success.
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