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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:58 AM
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If you decide to not pull it completely apart, definitely do a few oil changes real close together after you get it back together to hopefully get out any stuck shavings... Good luck!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66chevystepside
If you decide to not pull it completely apart, definitely do a few oil changes real close together after you get it back together to hopefully get out any stuck shavings... Good luck!
thanks I'm going to need all the luck i can get i'm going to try to wash the motor down with mineral spirits and see all what i can get out .and still do about 2 or 3 oil changes
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:25 PM
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lower oil pressure than normal when the engine warms up is a good indicator the bearing got chewed. If it is really bad, you could hear a rod knock.

I also noticed that some bearings can go undamaged while others get worn down to nothing, so check them all.
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
I also noticed that some bearings can go undamaged while others get worn down to nothing, so check them all.
check the cam or the main and rod bearings
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:37 PM
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rods and mains.
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Old 03-10-2008, 01:00 PM
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re:roached my cam

Hi This might seem alittle off but l've done it, as a FARMER l give small calves magnets for hardware and l've but them threw the drain hole in the oil pan, they just fit, then with a second magnet l use it on the outside to slide the inside magnet around the bottom of the oil pan or just placing it in the middle of it then when l do a oil change l slide the inside magnet to the hole and look at it, and if there is tomuch junk on it, l drill a bigger hole and tap it and pull the old magnet out, they have been putting magnets in trannies for awhile, so l tried this and it work! The magnets are very strong and hard to get 2 of them apart, don't worry it won't roll around your oil pan unless you move it with another magnet! lts a thought! TROY
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 01:56 PM
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The shrapnel is everywhere in the motor, not just the oil pan. In my opinion, you're gonna be doin' this a third time if you don't tear it down and clean it like you would for a new build.

Use a set of weak valve springs to break in the cam, then change them to the springs you are gonna run.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=man-41830
Use a bottle of break-in lube from Crane or Comp or whoever. (Crane #99003-1)
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Old 03-10-2008, 02:16 PM
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you can use magnets till the cows come home and it won't get all the debri out of your engine, once debri gets behind the cam bearings it comes out a little at a time. for the price of new cam, rod, main bearings and a gasket set, do it right and make sure to remove oil pump cover and clean that too.

sam-missle
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 406chevycaprice
well before i took it apart i started the motor and saw metallic looking oil coming out of the rocker arm's .so i don't know what I'm going to do i guess i can put the cam in and hope for the best
If metalic oil is making its way to the rockers, the oil filter plugged and the bypass kicked open and is passing the metalic oil throught the engine.

I agree with most everyone else. The engine needs to be torn all the way down and inspected. You will most likely find a wiped oil pump, mains, rods and scored crank. Cylinder walls and pistons with imbedded metal particles and lots of scratches. Cam bearings will be trashed too. Every oil passage needs to be flushed and wire brushed out clean. Pushrod ends need to be inspected and flushed too. Rockers and pivot balls will most likely need replacing also.

Mark
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:09 PM
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Tear it down. If you "think" you can flush it all out like I did once upon a time you are sadly mistaken. Do it right or it will cost you WAY more than 180 for a cam. As it has already been said you may find that the crank journals are roughed up as are the cylinder walls and rings. It doesn't take much for a little somethin somethin where it doesn't belong and a little bit of run time turns into a very very awful sounding noise. Sorry to say but anything else is a gamble that I would never ever ever again take, or advise anyone else to take.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:21 PM
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yea sadly you guy's are right if i don't tear it down it well cost more money in the long run .i really did not what to hear that it sounds like i have to do a tear down but it's the truth .i Rather be safe than sorry .
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 09:51 AM
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The same thing happen to me and I ended up going to a roller cam, so I never have to worry about this again. If you stick with a flat tappet you should really consider using a different oil like Royal Purple or Amsoil.

http://web.mac.com/gjnavarro/iWeb/Camaro/engine.html
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 07:09 PM
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On performance cams you should be using a P-55 core and for lifters the ones right from GM 5232720 have the hardest bottoms on them then any other hyd. lifter out there.

As fas as break in oil we was using the Brad Penn and now have switched to the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ as there 20/50 has over 2000 PPM of zinc and high in phosphate as well. And so far no issues.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS N/E
On performance cams you should be using a P-55 core and for lifters the ones right from GM 5232720 have the hardest bottoms on them then any other hyd. lifter out there.

As fas as break in oil we was using the Brad Penn and now have switched to the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ as there 20/50 has over 2000 PPM of zinc and high in phosphate as well. And so far no issues.
So when a guy orders a cam from Summit or Jegs, how does he tell what core it is?

tom
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machine shop tom
So when a guy orders a cam from Summit or Jegs, how does he tell what core it is?

tom
They should ask what core they are getting and if that not answered correctly then go to the manufacturer direct. And get a P-55 core as thats harder on the nose the the average cam out there. Ask Harold UD (Brookshire)

When we have cams machined we have them done on the better cores as it will save on some problems later.

Right in back of the fuel pump lobe the should be an EP-1 and P-55 on that end and on the last lobe back it is bridged towards the cam gear for extra strenth as thats where most cams break.

Comp offers a lobe lock core which is a very high end peice which help eliminate torsional twist which helps in more stable timing events from front to rear.
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