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Road and Race S10 Rear Suspension

12K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  astroracer 
#1 ·
My delima is that I am thinking about backhalfing and tubbing the rear to get this SOB to hook. I'm not talking about an all out conversion to race only, just a switch over to a narrowed rear and coilovers. In and of itself, thats all peachy, but I also drive this truck daily. I am pretty tolerant of the compromises I made when I switched to the Comp 304HR and all of the other race-oriented goodies I have put on my daily driver's n the past, so... In anyone's honest opinion, do you think that driving a backhalfed s10 every day is taboo. Other than riding like a coal wagon (which I could possibly remedy with the use of double adjustable shocks) and eating tires left and right, what other problems would I run into with the pro-street setup? Of course, I would be using a posi or locker, defintely not any spools of any sort.
 
#3 ·
When you say bad handling in rain, are you referencing the tires or design of the suspension, which I am assuming will be a four link of some sort. Thanks for taking the time,

Mike

PS-at this point everything tries to race me simply on audible principles of the truck. If I can get this thing to hook, I will be able to justify building competitive horsepower with one or two turbos, depending on fitment. Two gt-60s underneath and beside an lt1 fourth gen camaro is a tight fit, I am betting the S-10 will have ample space.
 
#4 ·
mgray said:
My delima is that I am thinking about backhalfing and tubbing the rear to get this SOB to hook. I'm not talking about an all out conversion to race only, just a switch over to a narrowed rear and coilovers. In and of itself, thats all peachy, but I also drive this truck daily. I am pretty tolerant of the compromises I made when I switched to the Comp 304HR and all of the other race-oriented goodies I have put on my daily driver's n the past, so... In anyone's honest opinion, do you think that driving a backhalfed s10 every day is taboo. Other than riding like a coal wagon (which I could possibly remedy with the use of double adjustable shocks) and eating tires left and right, what other problems would I run into with the pro-street setup? Of course, I would be using a posi or locker, defintely not any spools of any sort.
How much hook do you need? My '96 is not tubbed and I'm able to fit Hoosier P325-50x15's inside the fender with correct backspacing. Besides the tires, all I have is 2 leafs and CalTrac bars. I was able to get a 1.70 60 ft time on my old Nitto P275 DR's and these Hoosiers hook WAY better. I just haven't had a chance to run it with the Hoosiers yet...

Russ
 
#5 ·
If you're going to be on the streets a lot, I'd recommend a 4BAR and not a 4link (to avoid binding while cornering). To avoid excessive squat, they can be angled up from the rear. If the angle has a tangent equal to the CG height divided by the wheelbase, you'll have 100% anti-squat.
 
#7 ·
bracketeer said:
I use a 4 bar with SSM lower lift bars. I have 29x11 tires on the rear. It doesn't corner worth a damn.
We're evidently talking apples and oranges. When I refer to a "4bar," I'm referring to the sort of thing that's sold by Art Morrison, which wouldn't need any additional links any more than would a 4link. (In fact, a 4link becomes, in effect, a 4bar when the links are adjusted to be parallel.)

And, I didn't mean to imply that the 4bar would handle any better than the 4link. It's just that a conventional drag race 4link will bind during cornering if the links are not parallel.
 
#8 ·
Okay, so I will be limited to a parallel, or near-parallel, 4-link, or 4-bar suspension if I do the backhalf? I don't plan on taking high speed turns, so all I really care about is whether I will actually be able to turn. The harshest turn I can think I would take would be a high way turn, 45-50 mph going up or down a ramp. As long as I can do that, I don't care about the rest lol. And I know some are saying "Highway, backhalf, NOOO you idiot!!!!" Well, this is why I am here. If that wont work, what else will let me drive around town, on the highway, and hook up. Right now the thing is disgustingly easy to spin up with only 400 horses of small block power. :drunk:

Thanks for helping out an idiot, :thumbup:

Mike
 
#10 ·
astroracer said:
Like S10xGN suggested, I would try a set of Cal-Tracs before tearing up your truck. Look here... http://www.calvertracing.com/
These bars, adjusted correctly, and a set of drag radials should get your truck to hook just fine.
Indeed! We have a local racer with a gassed 434" smallblock powered '69 Camaro who cuts 1.32 60 ft times (9.00's @ 150) with leaf springs and CalTracs, no tubs! When I get my header repaired, I'll be looking for some 1.50's on street tires and pavement...
 
#13 ·
Thanks astro, very helpful! Not to say it is the only instance in which you would do it, I am beginning to think that backhalfing goes hand and hand with tubbing. I wouldn't mind driving the a tubbed car daily if it weren't for the bad cornering inherent to having so much contact area. So, it looks like backhalfing would be overzealous for a daily driver. Basically, I am looking to get into the 9s, possibly 8s, and be streetable. Of course, this would be coming from a twin turbo EFI 383 and 400 SBC. A few acquaintances have such setups on late-model EFI cars and they mind their P's and Q's like any stock sports car, so... I am thinking around 1075 flywheel hp, no more than 1200, capping it 7250-7500 rpm

Any dying words before I kill the idea to backhalf?
 
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