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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by abritton77 View Post
Ive got a 383 SBC that I use for drag racing. I am upgrading my top end on and decided to replace my rod bearings and rod bolts. I replace the mains last year so am not going to mess with them. I will be replacing the rod bolts with the exact same model ARP bolts as they currently have. These are scat rods with very little use. My question is do I need to have the big end re-sized. I've read a couple threads where some people say that when you upgrade rod bolts that they need to be re-sized. I cant find anything about where the bolts are being replaced with the same bolt.
I just caught that you already have ARP's.. I'm with 327nut.. I'd leave it alone. I thought you still had the stock rod bolts.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:03 PM
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His rod bolts are Wavelocks. Not 'toothy' like a knurl; the waves extend down to include the cap. Any time the bolts are changed the size should be checked and corrected as needed.

If one rods has had the bolts removed, replace the bolts and have that rod checked for size, correct if needed. The others I would leave as-is and have them checked for size. If they all (or most) need resizing, go ahead and replace the rod bolts and then resize them. Otherwise, return them to service. Use a stretch gauge and record the readings for future reference.

This will not change the balance enough to warrant rebalancing.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
or the rods bolts are beat out with a hammer
Im so sorry and im not one for bagging on anyone from this site but i have to, Do you build you're engines in a cave? Rod bolts should never be BEATEN out they should be pressed out the same way they get pressed in, granted most people dont have a press to do this but there is a right way and a wrong way. And beating anything with a hammer is the wrong way.....Especially the internal parts of the heart for you're car
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:44 AM
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It's common practice in most machine shops to remove the bolts with a press. Not always, though. I have been in shops where the accepted method to REMOVE, was to use a brass hammer and pound them out. There's a significant difference between beating them out with a steel hammer or tapping them out with a "soft" one. Never saw any negative results when doing this.

We always use a press to remove and replace them here. If you have access to an arbor press, that's the best way to install them.

Rods should always be measured after any "work" has been done to them, including removing the bolts, even if the bolts go back in the same "hole".

Jim
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
It's common practice in most machine shops to remove the bolts with a press. Not always, though. I have been in shops where the accepted method to REMOVE, was to use a brass hammer and pound them out. There's a significant difference between beating them out with a steel hammer or tapping them out with a "soft" one. Never saw any negative results when doing this.

We always use a press to remove and replace them here. If you have access to an arbor press, that's the best way to install them.

Rods should always be measured after any "work" has been done to them, including removing the bolts, even if the bolts go back in the same "hole".

Jim
Yep put the rods in the over and hit them with a dead blow and knock them right out without having to put tons of pressure on them in the press or use a little heat and a little tap with the hammer. And your done! With very little trama to the rods themselves. But they still need to be resized and check for straightness. Many people use them in the press cold but that can be bad for the rods if the bolts are very tight.

A light amount of heat 150 degrees or so and use the press with the proper jigs is the best way to remove them. But you can knock them out cold with a heavy brass hammer and hammer the new ones in and resize the rods in less time than it takes to get them hot in the oven. So alot of shops do it this way. Also as a mechanic you get paid for more work doing the resize. Real world sucks sometimes.

Dont use a torch!! The chance of warping or detempering the rods is too great. Less chance than using a sledgehammer to knock them out.
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