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Old 05-12-2010, 04:51 PM
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roller cam end play question

I'm in the process of installing a new Comp roller cam into a big block chevy. ('69 396cid)

Changing from a flat to a roller cam.
I have the normal stamped steel timing chain cover.
Spec sheet calls for .005" and .010" inch of endplay.
I seem to have a little more than that. I'm only able to eyeball it but it does seem to move more than the thickness of .010"

What can I use to shim behind the cam button?
This is just a weekend driver. Will the stamp steel cover be fine or do I need to weld a washer or something into it to stiffen it up?

Thank you.

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Last edited by Chucky5150; 05-12-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:42 PM
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Hi,
Cam buttons come in three different lengths, there are adjustable ones also.

The deflection is cured with a cast cover(best IMO), a water pump with a screw that allows a bolt/bong arrangement to ride against the cover restricting the deflection, or welding a piece of 1/8 steel over this area to stiffen the cover.
Rich
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:41 PM
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Yes, you can shim behind the button if needed. A cast aluminum cover is best, or reinforce the stock one somehow, Rich gave a couple ways^^^.
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Old 05-13-2010, 06:22 AM
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Go ahead and get a good cover...money well spent.Cloyes has a sweet one that I run with built-in adjustable button
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Old 05-13-2010, 06:54 AM
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The stock cover with an appropriate size dent is all I've been using for 9 years,and it works just fine.
Guy
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:24 AM
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Shim Stock

Hey Chucky, What to use for shimming? I use a small circle cut from shim stock. You can get shim stock in various thicknesses from an industrial supply store. Setup a dial indicator on the rear of the block with the expansion plug removed, bolt the timing cover on with a dry gasket and try different shim thicknesses behind the cam button until you achieve the desired end play. Once you get it set, bend the bolt locks, put sealer on the timing cover and bolt it up. Don't forget to install the expansion plug behind the cam. This works for me. olnolan
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:26 AM
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And you can verify your cam isn't walking in the block when you romp on it due to a flexing cover how? Exactly how hard do you whack the cover to adjust the endplay by say .005" LMAO
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Hey Chucky, What to use for shimming? I use a small circle cut from shim stock. You can get shim stock in various thicknesses from an industrial supply store. Setup a dial indicator on the rear of the block with the expansion plug removed, bolt the timing cover on with a dry gasket and try different shim thicknesses behind the cam button until you achieve the desired end play. Once you get it set, bend the bolt locks, put sealer on the timing cover and bolt it up. Don't forget to install the expansion plug behind the cam. This works for me. olnolan
I'm guessing it's going to be kind of hard to do that with the block still in the car.
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:00 AM
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How Much Cam Walk?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBCMudbogger
And you can verify your cam isn't walking in the block when you romp on it due to a flexing cover how? Exactly how hard do you whack the cover to adjust the endplay by say .005" LMAO
Hey BBCMudbugger, I guess the question was directed to Guy Hiltz? I've only done one big block roller conversion but I found the factory timing cover to be a pretty stout piece. I put a long pry bar against the back of the cam and put all the pressure I could against it and could not get but about .002" deflection from the cover. I set the cam button up on the low side of the clearance(.005"), so with deflection I would probably still be under the maximum deflection. I used a Isky roller button figuring the nylon type would wear more. I also used the Comp timing set with the recessed needle roller thrust bearing. I definitely agree the aftermarket cover is the way to go, but mine was a budget build.
Maybe Eric or others here that have done a bunch of roller conversions can add more on what failures they have experienced. Far as I know, mine has stayed together as the car was sold. The only call I had after the sale was to tell me that the engine was evil, mean, wicked and nasty!
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:07 AM
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Haa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chucky5150
I'm guessing it's going to be kind of hard to do that with the block still in the car.
Yep, I guess so. Its the only real accurate way I know to do it. I'm not sure if there is a way you can set up the dial indicator w/ engine in car. May have to do a clay strip measurement off the inside of the cover? Maybe one of the Pros here can come up with a solution? Good to have another La. member here! olnolan

Last edited by OLNOLAN; 05-13-2010 at 09:09 AM. Reason: spellin
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBCMudbogger
And you can verify your cam isn't walking in the block when you romp on it due to a flexing cover how? Exactly how hard do you whack the cover to adjust the endplay by say .005" LMAO
And how do you know the timing cover is flexing ???
Its thicker than you realise,probably not a whole lot of flex to it.
And to adjust the endplay to where you want it,you do it with the cover off and blocked up then make a small dent in it,then put it back on and measure the endplay,then adjust accordingly.
Pretty simple actually,and its been working for me for 9 years now.
Guy
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:13 AM
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aftermarket cover

I got to thinking, I believe I've seen an aftermarket cover with a hole built in for indicator measurement off the front. Nolan
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Yep, I guess so. Its the only real accurate way I know to do it. I'm not sure if there is a way you can set up the dial indicator w/ engine in car. May have to do a clay strip measurement off the inside of the cover? Maybe one of the Pros here can come up with a solution? Good to have another La. member here! olnolan
Yeah the one thing the Comp Cams paper work says is good luck (more or less)
Going to try and find a local welder weld up my cover.

Cool. Lafayette area.
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:17 AM
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Another thing that OLNOLAN touched on,is to have a bearing or thrust washer between the cam gear & the block,because the cam gear will wear into the block over time,creating even more endplay.You can get thrust washers & torrington bearings seperately,or as part of some timing gear sets.I have a Crane set quite similar to what OLNALON describes using.
Guy
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Hiltz
And how do you know the timing cover is flexing ???
Its thicker than you realise,probably not a whole lot of flex to it.
And to adjust the endplay to where you want it,you do it with the cover off and blocked up then make a small dent in it,then put it back on and measure the endplay,then adjust accordingly.
Pretty simple actually,and its been working for me for 9 years now.
Guy
I don't know that it would or wouldn't but I know the the aluminum cover doesn't.The proper cover with adjustable end play makes it so much easier plus it looks way better.By the time yo run all over town, beat up a good timing cover, weld in a washer....dent it....test fit it....dent it some more...whoops too much....cut some shims.....dent it back out.....oops...you could have spent a few sheckles and saved a lot of headache and still have piece of mind that at 7500 rpm my cam is still where it was set.
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