[Fastest65]

hello again. Was alomost...almost going to go with a
solid roller for my 454 + .060.
I think for practicality I have decide on a hyd roller.
I have the specs I want, but they are in a solid flat tappet.
It is the nestalga(sp) series for the 454, LS6 #11-678-5.
Does anyone know the equal to this only on hyd roller? I like the
duration, lift etc..on this cam but need it in roller version.
Thanks as always in advance.

[F-BIRD'88]

Define practical. The comp solid street rollers only need routine once a year valve lash adjustment. Only a few of the 16 valves will need a touchup if at all.

"Practical" does not equal lazy.

[Fastest65]

Lets be nice now...no laziness going on down here.
Just believe that if a guy had same car, same engine,
same components..same everything except one had solid
roller setup and the other hyd roller setup..my thought is the
hyd roller would be more reliable.
I guess you didn't have the answer to the original question.
Thanks

[ericnova72]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Define practical. The comp solid street rollers only need routine once a year valve lash adjustment. Only a few of the 16 valves will need a touchup if at all.

"Practical" does not equal lazy.

^^^X2, not like solid stuff was in the old days where you had to be adjusting them every other week. Mild solid rollers like that should easily go 10,000 miles and then will likely still be fine when checked as long as you don't use cheap rockers, studs, pushrods.

[Fastest65]

I want the specs of the 11-678-5 solid flat tap
only in hyd roller.

[ericnova72]

# 11-678-5 comes up as the Extreme Energy solid XS282S, not a Nostalgia Plus. Nostalgia Plus for LS-6 is # 11-671-4.

What spec are you trying to match, Duration or Lift??

[Fastest65]

I stand corrected, thanks and sorry I've looked at so many cams to find the
right one.
I've looked at the 11-250-3, 11-678-5 even the Isky 396650 (really like the
Isky) BUT I want a hyd roller with ALL the same specs as the 11-678-5.
Looked for a while now and cannto find a match in the hyd roller

[ericnova72]

Your not likely to find and exact match in both duration and lift, especially not in a catalog grind. Your best bet is to pick the manufacturer you want to deal with and get a custom grind, they have a lot more individual lobe masters and can make a match to almost anything, and the cost is not much more than a catalog grind.

Looking at Comp Cams masters there is a 307°/244°@.050" .612" lift Magnum HR intake lobe #3150, a 318°/252° .612" exhaust Magnum HR lobe # 3151.

Also a 294°/242° .612" Extreme Energy lobe #3317, 306°/254° .580 lift Extreme Energy lobe #3349

298°/242° .566" Extreme Marine lobe #3356, 310°/254° .575" Ex Marine lobe #3358

Also a 306°/250° .612" Ex Marine lobe # 3377

There are a couple others very close in duration but lift is in the .660's, some others close but lift only in the low-mid .500's. There may be a few more they have added, my catalog is a couple years out of date. You could always call and see what they recommend.

Only thing different about marine listed lobes is they are optimized for valvetrain stability during long periods of sustained high rpm with heavy BBC valvetrain components, they can still be used as car/truck lobes.

Differences in all of these lobes are in advertised vs .050" duration or lifts, but as close as I could find to what you want. A custom grind will allow you to pair any two lobes you want, or have a straight pattern ground if you desire. Comp has a pretty quick turn around time on custom grinds, less than a week, I've had them done before. One plus is custom grinds are done in-house at Comp and not farmed out to other grinders in batches like the catalog stuff is, quality is higher, a good deal for the small extra amount it costs.

I have to ask why you are hung up on having those "exact specs", seems like you would rather have performance that matches you goals??

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by Fastest65

Lets be nice now...no laziness going on down here.
Just believe that if a guy had same car, same engine,
same components..same everything except one had solid
roller setup and the other hyd roller setup..my thought is the
hyd roller would be more reliable.
I guess you didn't have the answer to the original question.
Thanks

you are misinformed on both accounts.
I do know the answer.....

[Fastest65]

A lot of info, thanks. Well not really hung up on that cam specifically.
Buddy has one and it performs very well, plus as extra it sounds nasty as hell.
I have a 454 + .060 (zero decked), SRP 141636 (-14) dome pistons, 291 rect port closed chamber (108.9cc), 4spd (w/2.64 1st), 3:31's out back that will maybe get changed out to 3.73's, Weiand Stealth, 800cfm carb, MSD, HEI
I will be close to 10.1 or 10.2 and may have to use a .060 thick head gasket if I see it is detnating. My calcs are using the .045 thick one.
There are so many options for cam there is the rolling thunder Edelbrock, Comps Mutha Thumper, but I think those are all for sounds and not really designed for performance. I do really like the Isky 396650 with Isky Redlines.
But, the split durations and lifts seems like you get the best of both worlds (performance and nasty sound) At this point I am still open for options, but need to make a decision as my block is being work on now
Hey..thanks agian.

[ericnova72]

If it is detonating with a .045" thick gasket, it will be as bad or worse if you go to a thicker .060" thick gasket. Sure the compression ratio will be lower but quench clearance will be terrible, and poor quench makes detonation worse or more likely to happen.

Search "quench" or "squish" to have a better understanding of this. 10-10.2 and tight quench will be fine, 9.8 and poor quench will rattle away.

Also note that none of the hydraulic rollers have an rpm redline over 6500 no matter how big they are, because of the heavy BBC valvetrain and the inability to run a stiff enough valvespring to control it beyond that point because the stiff spring will overpower the hydro lifter plunger. You are going to want to use a titanium spring retainer regardless, to save weight. Valvespring spec is going to be very critical, don't skimp here, get what exactly matches the cam you choose.

A flat tappet solid lifter with the EDM oil hole in the face, or a solid roller will be necessary if you want to go above 6500 rpm.

I'd go solid flat tappet before I went hydro roller, thats for sure. With good valvetrain parts you will only have to check it once or twice a year unless you race it on a weekly basis, they aren't like they were in the "bad old days" of stock rockers and .030" or more lash clattering away. Modern tight lash (.012-.020") stuff is very nice.

[Fastest65]

iI guess I don't know what the ******* I am doing.
The block I am using was a ACDelco reman. Before I
disassmebled it I did a in the hole measurement and she
came up at .045
Time is money when your paying a machine shop to check this
and check that. Maybe I should not deck the block at all..or at
best have .010 taken off only. Then with the -14 small dome may be
in a safer ratio..???
I have a stock 454 in my chevelle now just to get everything set up
and running right with suspension, tranny etc.. Just didn't want to end up with a pig after putting so much money in this engine. I will be just a weekend warrior and tire burner not a daily commuter. I have the SRP 141636
already and the 291 heads already want to and need to work with these due to finances for this build...you know how it is...

[ericnova72]

Have you run all the dimensional #'s through a compression ratio calculator?? One here at www.wallaceracing.com on the calculators page.

[Fastest65]

yup..I have run the numbers, zero decked I come up with
10.02.

head: 108.9cc
bore: 4.130
gasket bore: 4.30
piston: -14.0
stroke: 4.00
rod lengh: 6.135
head gasket: .045

In the whole is the only thing I do not know exactly with these
new SRP's vs. the old stock ones. top of wrist pin difference I guess.??

[ericnova72]

The wrist pin height is very likely(virtually 100%) to be higher on the SRP piston than it was on the reman pistons, should be listed by SRP. The .045" measurement you got from the reman pistons is typical, they are often .020" shorter than stock pistons. The stock deck clearance is normally nominal .025".

I would suggest you not deck the block at all until you can do a trial assembly of at least one piston/rod into the block for a measurement, then take it back to the machine shop for a correct decking amount.

Either that or add the measurements up of all the parts and then measure block height with a 12" caliper and do the math.

10.02 with a true zero deck should be just fine with cams the size of what you are looking at.