Originally Posted by SSedan64
Hi Bogie, It's a little work but it actually works great. The bolts/studs go just to the inner edge of the oil gallery. I Epoxy around the jamnut also. Also the 2.2 L4, 3.1V6,3.4V6 Roller lifters are .200 shorter than V8 Rollers do that takes care of most of the lifter boss Diff. Send me an email and I'll send the RetroRoller Instructions AdobeAcrobat 3.5MB file 55pages.
I have done a few of these over the years and am not pleased with the results either from a cost nor longevity stand point.
It's one thing to do it in your garage to see if you can, but as a builder, it's more time thus cost than I have and customers can afford.
All the mods from grinding clearance in the valley walls for dogbone clearance to warranty concerns where 4 or 5 threads in cast iron is all that's holding the spider on. The potential for a failure here keeps me awake at night. Fitting the OEM thrust plate requires drilling and tapping into a water jacket and hoping the 3-4 threads will hold the plate and not leak coolant into the engine, something else that gnaws in the back of my mind. One can always make a thrust spacer and use a button to control end thrust, then your back to all the pain of traditional thrust buttons; getting them set up, providing a sufficiently stiff surface for them to ride against, the sometimes high wear rate I see on some engines. Then the little motor lifters don't seem to hold up well to stiff springs, heavy valves, and high RPMs. Those things are little bombs that have proven to be just a matter of time till one lets go and takes the cam with it.
So in my experience with roller blocks so cheap and plentiful, why bother with retofitting old blocks unless your trying to preserve a numbers matching chassis and engine in a world with out ZDDP in the oil.