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Old 06-13-2008, 07:13 PM
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i forgot to ask, is there any problems running those thin head gaskets (.015) on the street? That seems really thin?
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:57 PM
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Only problem with shim gaskets is that the block and head surfaces must be within ~0.002" of being perfectly flat, or they won't seal.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2008, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbandit98
well, its too late for that now. I went and picked up the short block the other day. I just told them i wanted the flat tops in them, didnt specify a part number. Apparently they didnt deck the block any and used the 345np cast sealed power flat tops. (.040 over) I have a super crappy dial indicator and stand, but i did measure it 3 or 4 times and .040 from the center of the piston to the deck height is what i come up with. Does this sound right? I know its not good as ive read .050 total with gasket is where i need to be. What can i do to combat the issue short of installing new pistons? I havent bought heads or cam yet, can I have the heads milled some and use a thinner head gasket? Also with the cam, does this mean i will need to run a smaller cam since the compression wont be as high? Im not super worried about it as its just going to be a street engine, but I would like to do the best with what i have since its apart and i havent bought the top end yet.
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You should check the deck height with the indicator close to the edge of the piston not the center.
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Old 06-14-2008, 03:55 AM
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Since it seems that you are building a bit of a performance engine,ditch those pistons and get ones that sit in the hole very little,say 0.005,use a composite gasket,say 0.035 or so,and this will give you close to an ideal quench area,which is anywheres between 0.050-0.030,(more or less).
Guy
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Old 06-14-2008, 05:10 AM
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i could re check the height and the reading would be a little different. Its still going to let me know that I got the "rebuilder" pistons and they are .020 down. That was the reason for me checking it to begin with. This, after i read all about it 3 days after the shortblock got home. I really dont want to change the pistons even though I know that would be the best solution. How much power I am leaving on the table if I was to just run with the current pistons with the smallest composite gasket (say a .020-.025) I could get ahold of? Also would having the heads milled help any?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2008, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbandit98
i could re check the height and the reading would be a little different. Its still going to let me know that I got the "rebuilder" pistons and they are .020 down. That was the reason for me checking it to begin with. This, after i read all about it 3 days after the shortblock got home. I really dont want to change the pistons even though I know that would be the best solution. How much power I am leaving on the table if I was to just run with the current pistons with the smallest composite gasket (say a .020-.025) I could get ahold of? Also would having the heads milled help any?
Milling the heads wont help the deck height. It will reduce the chamber size of the head. With the pistons you have now & 64cc heads I get 9.25CR. With 58cc heads I get 9.85Cr. Thats using a GM .028" gasket. But the quench/squish is .068", not good. You could pull the rotating assembly back out and have the block decked .020". The pistons you have come with 1.550" compression height, factory is 1.560". If you deck the block .020" & use the .028" gasket with the 64cc Vortecs you'de have .048" quench/squish and 9.66CR. Pretty good actually.
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:39 AM
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yes, i know milling the heads wont help the deck height, but i thought it may help out some. So bacsically the ONLY option is to have some different pistons installed or deck the block? I will try and see what I can come up with on it. I will ask again though since I have no idea. If i left it the way it was right now with the .028 gaskets will it run decent? By decent i mean will it work for a street motor with a decent size cam. I know it will hurt performance but how much are we talking about here?
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:58 PM
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so if i replace the pistons, do you guys recommend going with the federal hypers or a different brand?
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:59 PM
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If you want an inexpensive stock-type hypereutectic flat-top that's the correct height, the Speed Pro H631 costs maybe $50/set more than the H345 that's probably in it now. KB makes a couple of similar pistons (KB-120 & KB-228), but they're a little more expensive, around $200/set.
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:47 AM
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what is in it is the 345np, i was under the impression the "H" 345's were the correct length.
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbandit98
what is in it is the 345np, i was under the impression the "H" 345's were the correct length.
Thought you had the federal h423ncp
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbandit98
well, its too late for that now. I went and picked up the short block the other day. I just told them i wanted the flat tops in them, didnt specify a part number. Apparently they didnt deck the block any and used the 345np cast sealed power flat tops. (.040 over)

nope the 345's. I was going to get the hp345s to replace them. I thought i read they were the right height. I would look at federals website but its useless.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2008, 07:58 AM
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Seriously why are messing around with all these crappy pistons, get a forged two valve relief piston. TRW sells a set for 300 bucks. They weigh a little less than your hypers and are twice as strong and are designed to come out to -.010 in the hole with no machining. You are about to drop a lot of money on the top end so spend a little extra on the bottom and do it right. Just my opinion...take it or leave it.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_v23
Seriously why are messing around with all these crappy pistons, get a forged two valve relief piston. TRW sells a set for 300 bucks. They weigh a little less than your hypers and are twice as strong and are designed to come out to -.010 in the hole with no machining. You are about to drop a lot of money on the top end so spend a little extra on the bottom and do it right. Just my opinion...take it or leave it.
x2
Just like Double_v23 says above,do it once and do it right.Getting your quench area right should be of concern to you.Having your rotating assembly balanced should also be on your "to do" list.
Guy
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:44 PM
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well, i stepped up a bit and ordered some keith black 120's. Hopefully, they will perform for me better than whats in there.
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