Roller Cam worth the extra bucks for SBC 383 making like 400hp?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:29 PM
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Roller Cam worth the extra bucks for SBC 383 making like 400hp??

This is a street vehicle and i am wondering if i should spend 250 for hydrolic flat tappet with lifters. I already have the springs. Or spend like $900 for a retro roller with springs??

Will i notice much of a difference on the street under 6000rpm?? Or is this a bad buy and should i spend my much elsewhere??

383 eagle kit
-7cc forged pistons
215 Dart heads 205/160 ss manley valves
Rpm Air Gap intake
Holley 750 carb
msd ingnition system
Going in 89xcab s10 with t56 and 3.73 posi rear end
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:43 PM
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You got good heads.
Only do it if you ditch that rpm for a single plane , Rev it 7000 plus and get at least somthing 250 @ 50 or bigger.
Otherwise I'd save your money.
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:05 PM
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I rebuilt my 383 this time because my flat tappet cam failed and filled my engine with metal. I went with a solid roller set up its just a bit cheaper to do solid roller. I cant speak for the Hyd roller, I would say It would gain quite a bit over a flat tappet. I can speak for my solid roller the power increase was AMAZING! My car was very strong before, but it will pull your heart into your throat now. I gained at least 50hp. And I have smaller heads than you Im running Performer RPMs. If you have the money I would definitely put a roller in it. Search the knowledge base theres tons of info on this.
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:01 PM
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The advantage to roller cams is the valve being open longer at more lift than a flat tappet cam. With a flat-tappet cam the valve gradually rises to its max then gradually closes while a roller gets it all at once and holds it open till all at once it slams shut. Also if you go with a hydrollic roller you wont have to keep adjusting your valve lash. You also need to pick a cam that works best with the flow specs of your heads. You dont need to worry about how much they flow at .700 lift because the valve is only at .700 lift for only 1 degree. You have to look at the specs around .300-.500 depending on your application.
If you have the money roller is the way to go.
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Old 03-11-2006, 08:58 AM
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Since this is going into an s-10 driven mostly on the street, I would concentrate on getting the power to the ground. Had a 91 Sonoma (my original TORNADO) with a modified 4.3, t-5 w/ 3.73 and it easily turned 245/50ZR16's. Going roller does reap horsepower and torque benefits but is expensive as you know.
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:40 AM
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which roller you go with will depend on whetheryou have an 87' and older or 87' and newer block.retro with older.roller is definitely worth it,especially with your set up,if you can afford it.if you can't,you may want to check out aflat tappet solid with the new howards cam lifter that has a .060'' oil eyelet in the face of the lifter.i'd say its about as close as you can come to a roller with out being a roller because you also get the quicker lift being a solid.
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:56 AM
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Anything that reduces friction, frees up horsepower.
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Old 03-11-2006, 10:31 AM
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You'll get lots of different opinions here, but if this car is not going to be raced, I think you can all the power you want with streetable behavior using a hydraulic roller. Solid rollers have their place, but the spring pressures are extreme, and revving any SBC to 6500-7000 is a chancy proposition if the bottom end isn't totally first class. The more reciprocating weight you have in the rods and pistons, the greater the reciprocating stress.

Street motors that stay under 6200 or so can be well managed with a hydraulic roller cam. These cost a bit less in total because you may not need larger pushrods, or 7/16 rocker studs, or a stud girdle. All of which should be considered with a high RPM solid roller.

The aggressive new faster ramp rate hydraulic rollers (Comp's Extreme Energy and Lunati's Voodoo, for instance) approach solid rollers for ramp rates compatible with street grinds. If you pick a couple of cams, and run them through EA3.0 or DD, you can get a good picture of what will happen (particularly with EA3.0) in terms of performance improvement between a standard hydraulic flat tappet and a hydraulic roller.

With my combination, it looks like an increase of 7 ft-lbs average and 8 HP average, from 1750 to about 6000 RPM.

Pat.
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Old 03-11-2006, 12:52 PM
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waste of money

depending on the rest of your existing valvetrain... you aren't going to start from scratch and do it for $900= think 12-1300.

And the solid lifters/ or high lift hydraulics will require stiffer springs, better pushrods, periodic adjustment maintenance, and periodic spring, pushrod, and rocker arm replacements because of the steep ramp rates, high spring pressures, and vigorous driving style.

There ain't no free lunch.

Last edited by xntrik; 03-11-2006 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 03-11-2006, 01:27 PM
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keep an eye on ebay. you can save big $$ by being selective and buying your roller parts there. i replaced my cam $230 new, lifters $250used,rockers-pro magnum $175used,springs $50new and pushrods$30 new. the lifters and rockers are both comp cams and were in great used condition. all together i spent under $750 and the difference is unreal. i gained 65 rwhp on the dyno after the changes and would say that HALF of that was due the roller valve train while the other half was due to the change in heads. if your buying on ebay be patient, be selective and read feedback that the seller has gotten in the past. know how much the parts are new if your buying used, and set a limit on how much you are willing to bid on them. don't forget to include shipping charges.
good luck.
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Old 03-11-2006, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classic keith
keep an eye on ebay. you can save big $$ by being selective and buying your roller parts there. i replaced my cam $230 new, lifters $250used,rockers-pro magnum $175used,springs $50new and pushrods$30 new. the lifters and rockers are both comp cams and were in great used condition. all together i spent under $750 and the difference is unreal. i gained 65 rwhp on the dyno after the changes and would say that HALF of that was due the roller valve train while the other half was due to the change in heads. if your buying on ebay be patient, be selective and read feedback that the seller has gotten in the past. know how much the parts are new if your buying used, and set a limit on how much you are willing to bid on them. don't forget to include shipping charges.
good luck.

Thats correct. I bought my comp super rollers off E bay for 225.00 NEW! I have less than 750.00 In my entire solid roller set up. It s a comp Magnum 236 dur@ .050 .550 lift power range 2500 to 6500. I used stud girdles to stiffen up my valve train. And I don't know why people say constant adjustment on solid rollers. If you need to make adjustment all the time theres something wrong in the valve train. Just make sure to use the best components you can afford.
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