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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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im on a highway to hell
 

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i guess that's why i come here and ask lots of questions lol

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Old 01-26-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helrazr3 View Post
ok so do i need to change the valve springs too? its not a big race engine with crazy stuff i started this idea because i know roller is an upgrade from stock and i can eliminate the stock rocker arm adjustment from the equation
Here is a quick guideline in valve train parts selection:

SB Chevrolet hydraulic Roller Camshaft valve spring pressure
VALVE SPRING OPEN PRESSURE
Min. - Max. - Valve lift -
260 lb. - 300 lb. - .450" - .480" Daily driver - stock rocker arms
301 lb. - 350 lb. - .481" - .500" HP daily driver - full roller rocker arms
351 lb. - 400 lb. - .501" - .550" Racing - full roller rocker arms - 7/16" rocker studs

400 lb. - Up - .551" - up Racing - solid roller, steel billet camshaft, T&D shaft rocker system
and frequent parts inspection and replacement.

Last edited by MouseFink; 01-26-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:32 AM
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this is what the comp tech guy recommends for me

12-242-2. Duration @ .050 224/230 Lift is .477/.480 with a 110 LSA.. This will give you some sound at idle as well..

so this should mean im in the 301 to 350 area so if this means the stock springs top out at 300 i should replace them.......i think this is getting more expensive than i wanted it too but oh well what can you do
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:12 AM
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That cam profile is in the 260 - 300 lb. valve spring range. A set of Comp Cams 981-16 single valve springs will be the ones to use. They will drop in without any machine work and set up at 105 lb. seat pressure at 1.700" and 283 lb. open pressure at .480" valve lift. Use Comp Cams 742-16 retainers and Comp Cams 601-16 locks.

With those valve springs, full roller rocker arms are not necessary.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:48 AM
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thanks i was just looking on summit to try and figure out some prices if im correct that cam is not a roller. it looks to me like the roller cam and lifter sets are about 700+ if that's right i'm going to have to re think this whole thing i definitely wasn't prepared for a jump like that in price. i will go with that profile but i may scrap the whole roller thing.

at times i don't know how i can hate something i love doing so much.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:59 AM
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We've been using the Comp Magnum rockers forever. No issues. I HAVE studied failures from other builders. The "bluing" of the rocker body may or may not be an indication of a problem. When the rocker ball shows some galling (material migration), it's a problem. The correction is the proper length pushrod. It's not the rocker's "fault". If the pushrod cup isn't in the right position, the oil hole is "too open", squirting the oil instead of weeping it. The result is indequate oil to the balls. The use of oil deflectors has also proven effective.

The two major benefits of using a roller-tipped rocker are the accuracy of each rocker, one to the next (already mentioned) and the significant reduction is "side-loading" of the valve stem against the guide. The wheel allows the force to "move" along with the tip.

Harland Sharpe colaborated with Smokey Yunik to develope the first truly successful "full roller" rocker for the 1960 Pontiac NASCAR program (Ed Cole traded with Mac McKellar for some goodies from the small block for the ball-fulcrum rockers in '54 when the engines were being developed. He improved them by oiling through the pushrod, which Pontiac didn't adopt until '61). For many years, Harland Sharpe were the "old standby" and more affordable than the "better" roller rockers. In recent years, Scorpion has actually suplanted HS as the "good, affordable" rocker. The Scorpion offers much less "deflection" during operation. A typical HS rocker will measure a higher ratio than advertised when "light" springs are used. At running speeds, they "deflect" enough to reduce the ratio to the advertised level. Either are an excellent choice for a street engine, although it is said the alloy used by HS will be more apt to "work harden". They can become brittle over time, but I have never seen any "hard evidence" of this.

It must be noted, though, the Comp and Crower steel roller rockers are far superior for street use. Far more expensive, too...

The XE268H is the grind listed. It's not radical enough to really warrant true rollers. Magnums would provde the desired results. Be CERTAIN you use the springs called for by Comp and follow THEIR break-in procedure. You'll like the cam...

Jim
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helrazr3 View Post
at times i don't know how i can hate something i love doing so much.
This could have been written for me as well It's very frustrating sometimes, this hobby/sport of ours.

Roller cams are expensive compared to flat tappet combinations, but currently everything in the real world is geared toward rollers. Before you make a final decision to use a flat tappet camshaft, please read through this tutorial several times.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:13 PM
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thanks mr p-body to begin with i was falsely under the impression that you didnt have to adjust roller rockers and that you just installed them bolted them down and you were good to go. i figured that would be one variable i could eliminate. i now i know thats not true so all things being equal i think at this point im going to go with the suggested cam and keep it all stock with the exception of the suggested valve springs retainers and locks.

cost is a big factor for me but that being said im not going to skimp on something vital if it is a must have. its a nice thing to be able to upgrade everything just to be on the safe side. but as long as the stock parts are within there specs i will leave them be. thats if im reading all of this right lol


oops tech inspector snuck in there and posted this before i read it i will read it thank you.

Last edited by helrazr3; 01-27-2013 at 01:15 PM. Reason: bad timing lol
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:50 PM
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i read through those tips, the funny thing is that all of these things involve cam shaft break in but in my motor the top end was fine there was a small amount of wear on 2 lifters and both of those had sludge stuck in the pushrod. all my problems came from the bottom end my main bearings were wiped out most of the material that wasnt sucked into the oil pump was stuck to the crank.
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