[MARTINSR]

A while ago I thought I would give this a try, figured it would be a great solution to the home hobbiest primering issues.

I got a can of Evercoat G2 and with some of those real nice foam rollers I gave it a try. Didn't worth worth a crap. I only got about 3 mils and sanded thru pretty quick. If I worked hard at getting it smooth, it didn't fill at all.

I also tried a couple of those brush/pad fuzzy things that they sell at the home paint store to do detail work, that worked a little better, but still very poor performance.

I thought for sure polyester would be a cool way to go, being it fills so much. I figured a coat rolled on whould have to have some super fill, no such luck.

We had a demo from S-W where they used the same rollers with a HS urethane primer and it did leave 6 mils, now we're talking. It was pretty smooth and really did work pretty well.

Anyone of you guys rolling on primer?

Brian

[lowROLLERchevy]

the shop i used to work at did it alot, we used it mostly for things that needed priming more then filling

if you have an area that needs to be filled, but dont want to spray the primer, throw the heat light on it and get it warm, then start rolling on coats. the coats will tack up slightly each time, and then when u roll on the next coat, its ADDS a coat, instead of moving around the last coat

ive rolled hoods that were rock chipped / DA'ed by setting them in the sun on a hot day. but that was only because our shop primer gun was shot, and we the replacement wasnt gonna be in till noon

edit: by the way, the primer we were using was ppg 271 / 275, which is a primer that will fill grinder marks and door dings if you want it to

[baddbob]

I've brushed G2 on small areas when I didn't feel like masking or gun cleaning and it worked fine if allowed to flash good between coats, never tried rolling it on. I bet with heat it would work much better-especially being a polyester and how they react to heat.

[MARTINSR]

Adding some heat, never thought of that. If the panel was warm it would "kick" the polyester while in the roller tray it would still be fluid. Hmmmmmmm

Brian

[lowROLLERchevy]

yep, its the best ay to do it,

and if you ever have a bumper that was sanded wrong, and now it has all the lil plastic fuzzies that REFUSE to sand back off, get it the best you can with sandpaper,
set it in the sun,
put the heat light on it too,
get it up to 250*
(use a infrared or contact thermometer)
pound on a coat of primer
let it dry MOST of the way
dry sand it till the primers thin
wipe w/ W&G remover
pound on another coat
repeat till the fuzzy's are buried / sanded off

the manager at the shop for SOME reason decided to GRIND his bumper pant off with a DA (10 tons of pressure, used the edge of the pad everyplace, etc) royaly screw up the bumper, then pawn it off to me to fix for him. after an hour of trying to shave the fuzzies off with razors and files and sand paper, i finaly said "its his fault, ill bury them in a foot of primer and if it cracks later ill tell him to effe himself"

primer wound up being only slightly on the thick side, surface was freakin flawless... seriously show car straight (by chance i admit) and never cracked, despite being hit in the lot twice

ive got a bunch of "different" ways to do stuff ..... ask me how i strip a rock chipped hood for repaint

[crashtech]

Originally Posted by lowROLLERchevy

get it up to 250*
(use a infrared or contact thermometer)

Hey, that's great if it works for you, but just so everyone knows, there are some TPO plastics (the kind used in some bumper covers) that MELT at 248° F, so if you really managed to get certain bumpers to that temp, you would have a real mess!

http://www.plasticsusa.com/tpo.html

[35WINDOW]

O.K. lowRoller,

How do you strip a rock chip Hood for repaint? (Boy am I setting myself up for this one )

[fitzwell]

Originally Posted by 35WINDOW

O.K. lowRoller,

How do you strip a rock chip Hood for repaint? (Boy am I setting myself up for this one )

<< in his best Groucho Marx voice

"so tell me sir, have you quit beating your wife ?"

[lowROLLERchevy]

Originally Posted by Crashtech

there are some TPO plastics (the kind used in some bumper covers) that MELT at 248° F

good point. i learned the limits of the covers i most often worked with by heating junk covers to the point that they melted or burnt, and in cases where a chevy, toyota or whatever came in for repair (we were chrysler / jeep / vw / audi) i wouldnt go beyond like 150-175*

Originally Posted by 35WINDOW

O.K. lowRoller,

How do you strip a rock chip Hood for repaint? (Boy am I setting myself up for this one )

the boss was PMS'ing and irrational that day,
the car had 3 paintjobs on teh hood
we had cheap DA paper then turned to powder in 30 seconds
i had an hour to strip 3/4 of the hood and prime it too
there was no 80 grit longboard paper to fashion DA paper out of
the boss was refusing to order more supplies till monday

so i grabbed my airboard, which as it turns out already had a piece of 40 grit on it, and started VERY LIGHTLY running it across the paint till i hit the bottom coat of epoxy primer

apparently it was a replacement hood, which was at one point on a diffeent car as under the 2 coats of black, there was red paint, with epoxy under that, so it was easy to see when i was almost to the metal

the only thing was it was aluminium (Audi A6 v8) so i had to be VERY carefull to not build up any heat in the panel, and had to make sure i didnt dent it

boss caught me 1/2 way thru, flipped out so bad he was stammering EVERY word, then he just stopped talking and went back to his office. he killed a 1/2 bottle of wild turkey in the last 30min before punch out time

finished priming it @ 5:05, went and told the boss "its done, can you order some quality DA paper for the shop tomorrow"

for some reason, he decided to stop buying the cheapest sandpaper possible after that, eh also stopped trying to make his monthly profit report look better on "bad" months by waiting till the first to restock everything

hood came out perfectly flat too

[sevt_chevelle]

Not to judge anyone but isnt the best method to remove bumper fuzzies is to use the proper grade of sand paper and technique? I would think pounding on primer to bury them is asking for problems

After each bumper repair I sand the bare plastic with 240 grit and light pressure on a 3/32 orbit DA sander, I have a Dynabrade. Ive never had a redo from the paint shop or heard the painters complain.

An air sander like Ingersoll Rand's 313 7" sander with some 180 will strip a hood in about 10 mins. Ive stripped way too many F150 aluminium hoods to count and several BWM hoods without a sign of warpage.
The key is too move fast and work a large section of area removing one layer of paint at once. Thats my method...Eric

[3D Customs]

We use INTERLUX 3000 epoxy primer; you can brush, spray it or roll it in temps as low as 34 degrees. You won't find it at any auto paint supply but you can get at marine supply. Interlux can be used with any type of paint. When you roll it or brush it will flow but you must by the brushing agent to mix with it. We just finished a custom chopper and we used this primer; this is my web site www.3dcustoms.com if you click on recent button the last few pictures are in interlux epoxy primer.

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

A while ago I thought I would give this a try, figured it would be a great solution to the home hobbiest primering issues.

I got a can of Evercoat G2 and with some of those real nice foam rollers I gave it a try. Didn't worth worth a crap. I only got about 3 mils and sanded thru pretty quick. If I worked hard at getting it smooth, it didn't fill at all.

I also tried a couple of those brush/pad fuzzy things that they sell at the home paint store to do detail work, that worked a little better, but still very poor performance.

I thought for sure polyester would be a cool way to go, being it fills so much. I figured a coat rolled on whould have to have some super fill, no such luck.

We had a demo from S-W where they used the same rollers with a HS urethane primer and it did leave 6 mils, now we're talking. It was pretty smooth and really did work pretty well.

Anyone of you guys rolling on primer?

Brian

[lowROLLERchevy]

Originally Posted by sevt_chevelle

Not to judge anyone but isnt the best method to remove bumper fuzzies is to use the proper grade of sand paper and technique? I would think pounding on primer to bury them is asking for problems
...Eric

agreed, but this was far more fuzzies then the average amount, this bumper was astro turf from end to end, and he insisted that I repair it, and he wanted it done before the end of the day

i tried to talk him into using one of the slightly damaged covers that we had in storage from previous customers cars, his reply was "no, your fixing MY bumper, and your fixing it now, otherwise your fired"

if it had been a customers bumper that he screwed up, i would have thrown it in the dumpster and used a used bumper out of storage,but in this case it was his fault it was screwed up, and his fault i had to do it the way i did

no different then if a customer had dented their own door, filled it, primed it, and said "just paint it for me, and i dont wanna effin hear about the way i did the bondo"

[barthmonster]

Originally Posted by lowROLLERchevy

ive got a bunch of "different" ways to do stuff ..... ask me how i strip a rock chipped hood for repaint

And how is that?? I'm asking because my entire front clip is rock-chipped bad (re-paint & 243,500 miles!!)...

[lowROLLERchevy]

scroll up for how i was forced to do it that day, lol

not that i would suggest doing it that way ..... but if theres alot of paint on the car sometimes a quick pass w/ 40 grit can realy cut down on how long it taks to strip the panels

[shoddy_f-body]

I dont think the Evercoat G2 is all that thick compared to some other brands of poly prime. Maybe the roll on application would work with something else a liilte thicker? I think i would just skim it with metal glaze before i rolled on polyester.