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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2009, 07:53 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
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I am really enjoying this build. Cole

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:08 PM
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Thought about it a while.... I am going to continue to work on the track nose. The car needs to shrink a little though to pull it all off.

The cowl will need to be pinched a little to get the lines to work out right (who really needs THAT much foot room anyways?). The nose is gonna get a little smaller and a little lower at the front. Those pretty cam covers are actually going to poke through the hood a little at the front. The door openings are also gonna get smaller (shorter front to back and shallower).

I'm going to try and pack everything into a 100" wheelbase.


The Whippet radiator and MG gauges will go towards dad's T rebuild.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:19 PM
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I spent a couple of frustrating days working on roofus. The heat and humidity in Memphis was aweful.

I had a heck of a time trying to make the transition from the boat tail to the track nose.

I started trying to mock up the original roof pieces.









Kinda OK, but I wasn't really feeling it. ...needs more cowbell.

On to plan B.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:20 PM
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...or another ROOF ! ...and a jaguar roof to boot! A 1979 Jaguar XJS to be specific.



Cut down the middle like I did the tail.





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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:20 PM
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Time to cut. And bend up some new angles.









It looks like crap...too square. Does not flow with the rest of the car.

It fits the curve front to back pretty well though.

On to plan C
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:21 PM
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The cowl top need a bigger radius. Time to make more angle pieces.

I dropped the roof panel down. Instead of trying to make the XJS roof make the whole bend, I decided to only make it do part of the bend. I positioned it down lower on the car.







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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:22 PM
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Not 100% sure on the peaks. The flat top dash was definetly wrong though.





The "hood" will butt up to the cowl. Curves actuallly match up pretty good.



(3 of the four firetruck are visible in this pic)



Cowl top will be filled in with cadillac door sheetmetal.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:33 PM
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Its gonna be awesome
I wish progress on my hoodrod was going that fast, Back to nightshift Sunday so there will be 3 months with little to no progress
Shane
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:34 PM
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I think its comming together rather well, i like it. And we all could use alittle more cowbell i think Cole
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 12:33 AM
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I LOVE seeing this thing come together! You and Dewey, you guys are something else. Just build it, that's all you need to do, you want a car, BUILD it! Awesome stuff guys!

Brian
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 06:33 AM
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In the pics, the red panel looks really flat. In real life, it has a decent amount of shape and follows the curve of the framework fairly well.

On the subject of curves, do you guys think that the top of the hood and cowl should be peaked, curved, or flat down the center?

I'm kinda up in the air over this one.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938
......On the subject of curves, do you guys think that the top of the hood and cowl should be peaked, curved, or flat down the center?

I'm kinda up in the air over this one.
I would put a curve in it for two reasons. First a large flat surface will tend to look concave on a car. Second a flat sheet of metal will tend to 'drum' when there is vibration unless you stiffen it on the back. Great work, thanks for posting.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 07:59 AM
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Great build!

As for the hood I would suggest either no hood or one shaped like an MGA where it is rounded in front, radiused slightly over the top and curved forward across the rear.

A two piece butterfly hood set up might be simpler though with a center support going from the cowl forward to the radiator shell support frame. You could use a piano hinge on the tops and slick leather buckles on the side to tie back into the 20-30's style.

Hell you are doing great on your own. Don't listen to anything I say.

Looking forward to more.

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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938
... do you guys think that the top of the hood and cowl should be peaked, curved, or flat down the center?
Scrim is right. Virtually every body panel needs to have some sort of crown or curve to it. Our eyes can play funny tricks on us. An absolutely flat panel will actually appear concave once it is painted...just as Scrim has noted. Also, a panel which might appear absolutely flat to you and me on any factory vehicle, will no doubt have some crown or curve to it. You can test this quite easily be just laying a 3 or 4 foot straight edge over the surface of any panel on a car. There are crowns all over the place that might totally go undetected by the human eye.

And has already been pointed out, curved or crowned panels also resist wind deflection and oil canning better than flat panels as well as being a bit stronger than flat panels. And, well, they just look more "professional" than flat panels. So wherever you can, I would incorporate a crown or curve in your metal work.

Keep up the progress reports. I really appreciate the fact that you are showing us all the "struggle" that goes into building something from scratch like this...and how you have to sort of go in fits and starts. Fabricating one piece only to discover that another completed piece now needs to be altered or totally rebuilt in order make the overall look just right. Or at least just right in the builder's eyes. It can be a frustrating yet exhilarating experience all at the same time and you seem to have the right mental (and metal) attitude for the project.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 09:22 AM
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I quickly took a few shots of mine that might give you a few ideas. I think this is what Houston was thinking about.

Notice I have curved both sides of the hood and put a peak in the middle. There is also a curve front to back that is barely noticeable. To give you an idea of the total length the stainless steel hinge that connects the two sides of the hood is 48 inches long. Both sides of the hood and hinge are removable to give good access to the engine bay by undoing one bolt at the front of the hinge.
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