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Old 05-05-2008, 09:26 PM
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Rotating assembly question

Well first of all I would like to say Hi, this is my first post and I have been doing alot of reading. My plan as of now is to build a 450+ horse street motor to put in my 1985 chevy 1/2ton 2wd. Im working with a 1980 350 4 bolt main block, and I plan on buying my rotating assembly this week so I can send it to the machine shop with the block. Anyways I plan on building a 383 and the kit Im looking at is in summit and the part number is ESP-13055030. I just want to make sure that this will withstand the power I want to make. The kit includes a cast steel crank (3.750 stroke), forged 5140 steel rods (I beam), forged srp falt top pistons, plasmamoly rings, rod and main bearings, and the kit comes internally balanced for 840 bucks. I think that all of these parts together should be able to hold 500 horse and that it is a pretty reasonable price. Please tell me if you think poorly or highly of any of these parts and why so, thanks

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Old 05-05-2008, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5004man
Well first of all I would like to say Hi, this is my first post and I have been doing alot of reading. My plan as of now is to build a 450+ horse street motor to put in my 1985 chevy 1/2ton 2wd. Im working with a 1980 350 4 bolt main block, and I plan on buying my rotating assembly this week so I can send it to the machine shop with the block. Anyways I plan on building a 383 and the kit Im looking at is in summit and the part number is ESP-13055030. I just want to make sure that this will withstand the power I want to make. The kit includes a cast steel crank (3.750 stroke), forged 5140 steel rods (I beam), forged srp falt top pistons, plasmamoly rings, rod and main bearings, and the kit comes internally balanced for 840 bucks. I think that all of these parts together should be able to hold 500 horse and that it is a pretty reasonable price. Please tell me if you think poorly or highly of any of these parts and why so, thanks
For 840 bucks its not a bad deal and if the shop your dealing with does balancing I would surly have it check as we have seen problems with production balance jobs over the years, And in these kits the rods are not sized and either is the pin bores in the pistons all those thing need to be checked before installing. If the rods are the 5140 Eagle Sir rods be carefull, loosen the rod bolts and retorque them and have them checked for roundness.

Good luck with your build Carl
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Old 05-06-2008, 07:39 AM
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Better yet, go to the machine shop where you plan on taking the block for machine work and ask them to give you a price on a stroker kit. I know that I am competitive on kits and can usually steer the customer toward a kit that is better suited to his needs than just the cheapest kit around. Plus, if the shop gets your parts, they are in a better position to stand behind their work.

If nothing else, sell the SIR I-Beam rods to sombody you don't like. They are junk.

tom
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:20 AM
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The kits are balanced but not as good a good machine shop can do. The parts may be within a few grams, but a good balance jod will get the parts within a 1/4 gram. To give an example a dollar bill will weigh one gram. Now cut it in 4 pcs and get all the parts that close. That is a good balance job.

Just to note a 5 dollar bill does not weigh 5 grams it still weighs 1 gram, go figure
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:24 AM
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From what I understand 5 grams costs a lot more than 5 dollars anyways, depending on what you are smoking
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:07 PM
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What rods would you guys go with instead of the sir then?
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:12 PM
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You can get some Eagle or Scat 4340 Forged H beam rods for a couple hundred bucks extra. But if you want to stay budget minded go with a scat rod, but make sure they are clearanced before you balance the rotating assembly otherwise you will have to pay to have it balanced twice once before you clearance the rods (so they will stop hitting the cam) and once after.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:14 PM
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You can get some Eagle or Scat 4340 Forged H beam rods for a couple hundred bucks extra. But if you want to stay budget minded go with a scat rod, but make sure they are clearanced before you balance the rotating assembly otherwise you will have to pay to have it balanced twice once before you clearance the rods (so they will stop hitting the cam) and once after.

I have been running the SIR rods in a budget 383 for awhile now and haven't had any problems but it only goes to 5500 rpm or so.
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Old 05-06-2008, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5004man
What rods would you guys go with instead of the sir then?
We have been using the Scat I beam rods for street and strip applications with 7/16 bolts P/N 2-ICR-6000- 7/16 or if your using a 5.7 rod the P/N is 2-ICR-5700-7/16 and they are cam clearanced and when we have our cams cut with a 1.130 base circle and we have them machined on a P-55 core. and we have been using the lifters right from GM in all our hyd. applications.

Here is a link to one we built and the engines with the Vortec heads have had near the same numbers on the dyno.

Good luck with your build.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:44 PM
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well after reading way too much today I think I am going to go with a scat 383 kit instead. Im going to give them a call tomorrow to see what kind of kit they can hook me up with. From what ive been reading it seems that the scat 9000 crank is a decent bit better than the eagle, and that no one is a fan of eagle sir i beams, thanks for your help
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