Hello. I've heard nothing but good things about Royal Purple oils, but a litre here is no better than 6 bucks.

Is the performance of it really that good compared to other synthetics that run half the price?

I can tell you first hand that Royal Purple is the top of the heap.
In my daily driver 02 Neon I picked up 4 miles to a gallon with royal purple and I don't change it for 12,000 miles!

In the race car we picked up 9 hp on the dyno over pennzoils synthetic.

I think there is no better.

Royal Purple is great stuff, but it is no better than any other top line synthetic lubricant. All high grade synthetic lubricants have a much higher degree of protection over conventional lubricants, but that degree of protection among synthetic lubricants is so narrow there is very little difference between them.

Vince

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My project 34
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/34-...ght=34+progress

Royal Purple in everything, engine, trans, and rearend. And worth it

91 mustang 4cyl 5 speed. Picked up almost 2.5 mpg..trans shifts much easier
69 f100 306/c4 truck sits for weeks at a time, never had a lube related failure
46 pickup 306/34 oil change at the beginning of the "season" Truck runs 4-5k a year. No problems.
we used to use RP in the delivery trucks at work...constant abuse, & never lost an engine. To bad we couldnt keep sheetmetal on 'em

Yeah On Synthetic's . We here are of the opinion, or at least some of us are of the opinion, that on Rebuilt motor's , conventional oil, should be used for break in purposes, even up too say around 25k miles then switched out, too Synthetic's. Any opinion's on this train of thought or theory ? Idea being that Syns dont allow for Good Ring seating ETC. Sean

Hey guy's, here's my Royal Purple story.
If you have a high mileage engine that's only seen conventional oils it's whole life, do not start running a synthetic.

My buddy swears by Royal Purple on his 9 second Chevelle. So I figured I try some in my Camaro to gain a couple tenths in the 1/4 mile. (runs 13.49 now)
The rings in my 350 are the only things that haven't been freshened up over the year's and have approx. 70,000 miles.
Almost immediately after I changed the oil with RP Synthetic I noticed a tremendous amount of blow by pumping out of the breather. After about 60 miles of street driving I flushed the Royal Purple out with new conventional oil and filled it back up with conventional straight 30 Valvoline racing oil like I've always ran.
I've put about 125 miles on it since and the blow by is so bad still, smoke pours out around the hood at stoplights.
I'm pretty disappointed to say the least. I never did make it to the track because of it in 2006.
I haven't "CSI"ed the motor yet to see what exactly happened, it's been too cold. But I sure do regret trying the synthetic.

I'm not bashing Royal Purple, like I said my buddy swears by it in fresher engines. Just letting you know what NOT to do.

I have run synthetics for 20+ years. Amsoil and Mobil 1. All the driveline, chassis lubes.

I have changed many old/ higher mileage vehicles to synthetics at 100 % success. Some have even stopped smoking out the tailpipes after a couple thousand miles. Pulled apart an old one 30,000 miles after converting it and it was as clean inside as if it had 2,000 miles on it.

Never have broken in a fresh overhaul with it. I'd do 3-5,000 miles before installing, just to let the rings wear the cylinder walls to where the headbolt distortion is minimized. (You don't actually think that torque plates make them perfect, do you?) Depends a lot on cylinder wall finish. MOST engine shops are stuck in the 70s, so walls need 5-10,000 miles to smooth in.

IMO RP shelf stock is no different than anyother quality shelf stock.

RP racing has several advantages. But cost's nearly twice the price.

Thats my exact car...good to hear.

I think I know what Ill ve putting in when I come across some money, whether its RP or not, It'll be Synthetic. Thanks guys.