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Old 09-07-2010, 11:34 AM
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rundown on setting up valve lash

ok so i just put my new rebuilt motor in the car, but im not 100% the proper way to put the pushrods in and setup valve lash for camshaft breakin. Anybody have a quick rundown for me, i would greatly appreciate it! thanks

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Old 09-07-2010, 02:00 PM
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Do you have hydraulic or solid lifters?
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:28 PM
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Here's the procedure for hydraulics....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...MENT_SBC_/_BBC
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:29 PM
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Assuming they're hydraulic...

Rotate the engine until the exhaust lifter for the #1 piston (front driver's side) rises and falls. Keep rotating the engine until the intake lifter rises and falls. Both lifters for that cylinder will be riding on the flat surface of the cam lobe.

Loosen the rocker arm nut until you can move the pushrod up and down and it spins freely. Now slowly tighten the rocker arm nut while spinning the pushrod back and forth between your index finger and thumb. Tighten it until you feel just a slight resistance. Be sure your socket wrench isn't resting on the rocker arm or you may get a false reading. Try and move the pushrod up and down to be sure their is no play. Recheck the resistance on the pushrod again by spinning it and tighten as necessary to get that slight resistance back. You will now be at zero lash.

Once at zero lash, orientate your socket wrench at the 12 o' clock position. Now give the rocker arm nut one half turn. You handle should now be at 6 o' clock. Do that to both that exhaust and intake rocker arms and you are set for that cylinder.

Move to the next piston in the firing sequence. The exhaust lifter will have already returned and you'll notice the intake lifter will be raised. Slowly turn the engine until the intake fully returns back to it's seated position. You can now adjust the rocker arms for that cylinder. And so on...
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:29 PM
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Solid lifters, 1.6 shaft mount roller rockers. i already took the inner springs out to break the cam in.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:31 PM
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BoxWrenches valve lash adjustment video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5r...eature=related
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65malibuSS
Solid lifters, 1.6 shaft mount roller rockers. i already took the inner springs out to break the cam in.
Intake closes, set the exhaust.........exhaust opens, set the intake.
(just arrives on seat) (just starts to open)

set the lash .002" tighter than the cam card specs.

Limit the engine rpm to 3500 rpm with the inner coil removed.

Run in for 40minutes at 2500-3000 rpm.

check valve lash after its dead cold again. (overnight)
(Remember, dead cold engine, .002" tighter than cam card specs.)

Run it again for another 40minutes, or take it out and drive it, again avoiding low rpm idling or high rpm, Don't let it idle below 1000 rpm while driving at first.

Reinstall the inner valve springs and re-set the lash again dead cold at .002" tighter than cam card specs.

You are good to go.

A couple good full throttle runs will seat the piston rings.

I like to run this stuff in the oil.
www.molyslip.com It works. Leave it in and let it work for the first oil change.

And a high Zinc breakin additve, GM EOS or...
You can leave it in the oil , you can leave the high zinc additive in the oil too.
Draining out the oil after 1 hour running is BS. The engine needs the antiwear additives for much longer than 1 hour running. Leave the additives in and let them work.
There is no harm in leaving these additives in and many benefits.
If you want to do something good for it after the first hour, just change the oil filter.

Avoid extended time low rpm idling for the first week of running. Set the idle at 1000-1200 rpm and put up with it for 1 week of driving.
After a week you can turn the idle down a bit if you want.
This ensures the cam lobes always get lots of oil lube flow.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-07-2010 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:23 AM
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Thanks for all the insight guys, i can say i actually learned a lot and will be taking everyones advice!
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