If they're not too bad you can take an automotive speck remover tool, available at the auto paint store, and "file" the run down. Then sand with 600, 1000, 1200 paper and water to blend the area.
Runs in the clearcoat are easy to get out, if you haven't waited too long. The longer you wait, the harder it is to sand them out.
Here's what you do.
I'm going to assume you layed down at least 3 clearcoats. Depending on where the run occured, use the hardest board you have. Even a piece of wood is better than using a soft spoonge to avoid sanding around the run.
Close to reveals or style lines, you will have to be creative with the backer board for your paper, but I've used pencils, wood dowels, cardboard rolls, round hard rubber sanding pads from Eastwood, etc.
You can use 1000gr, but I'm patient, so I wetsand with 1200gr. LIGHTLY, sand only the high spot until you feather into the rest of the clearcoat, but no more. Buffing will show a low spot in the sun if you go too low. Buffing also will show high spots if you haven't gone far enough. Take your time, and check often by a light buff with machine glaze now and again just to shine up the coat slightly.
I've used nib files and razor blades, but just plain old sanding works the best for me.
The problem with sanding out runs, is that the run is sooo thick compared to the rest of the panel, that the run skins over and traps solvent. If the run has any little bubbles in it, the chances of rubbing it out to make it invisible are slim. Hopefully you let the clear flash off enough between coats, and the run happened on the final coat. Dan
For best results use a hard block to sand that run off, when the run is gone allow the clear some time to cure and catch up with the rest of the panel-cure time is always slightly delayed where the run was because of the extra material-so after sanding allow it to cure a day in the sun if possible then final sand with 2000 on a block and buff.
If you rush the process and sand the run and buff while the clear is fresh the run will show up again after full cure-(shrinkage)
The problem with sanding out runs, is that the run is sooo thick compared to the rest of the panel, that the run skins over and traps solvent. If the run has any little bubbles in it, the chances of rubbing it out to make it invisible are slim. Hopefully you let the clear flash off enough between coats, and the run happened on the final coat. Dan
Machine glaze is very fine compound, maybe 9000gr that you apply with a buffer and foam pad. I apply at about 1500 to 1800 rpm. 3M makes something even finer (about 10,000gr) than machine glaze called "Ultrafine" that I'm going to try out.
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