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I am not certain whose ClearCoat you are using, but recently I painted and Clear coated my Firewall, and had the same thing occur. I was using SPI's Universal Clear, and called BarryK (what a great guy!), asking him what was the problem-
He told me that it was moisture trapped in the Clear, and that there were a few solutions- 1. Sand and re-shoot, hopefully not through the Base- 2. He has ahd some success utilizing an infrared Light, to bake it out, but he told me not to get it above 130-140 degrees- 3. Put it in the Sun for a few DAys and see if it will "bake" out As my Car was on jackstands with no front-end, #3 would not work for me-I tried the baking option, and while I did see a difference, it did not take it all out. I became inpatient, and since I had 4 Coats on it, I started with 600 and carefulluy started sanding (holding my breath)-luckily I used SS- Anyway, it came out great-I would try the sanding option (if you have enough clear on it), as even when the moisture "cooked" out, it left little craters- I was surprised that I got moisture (I'm in Utah, the second driest State in the US), as Barry usually sees it down South-the Dummy in me realized later that I probably got it through my Compressor even though I have a good air system (with drops), a water seperator, a Motor guard M60 Filter, and a Gun Filter- |
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ElCamino
Sorry I didn't reply sooner but I was out of town. When your kid marries and buys a house you become the cheap(free) handyman/remodeler/contractor. Anyway, sanding is your only option. Hopefully you have a panel edge or body line where you can mask off the area. I never could spot repair CC without leaving a noticeable edge line. The pros can but not me. If not I would sand and reshoot the entire panel. I wouldn't worry too much about hitting the basecoat, you'll know when you get to it. Put it out in the sun for a few hours, if possible, before reshooting Ron |
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Thank you for the advise. Im using SPI Universal clear and HOK Shimrin metallic. I definitely cannot cut through the clear as I will be very obvious if I disturbe the metallics.
I ended up re-shooting the top darker side of the fender but my only concern is that the color on the fender will differ from the color on my door and rear panel. So what exactly causes this solvent trap every time Ive shot the and get runs? I was always under the impression that if the clear runs I can just cut if flat and everything would smooth out. |
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Solvent trap or solvent pop occurs when another coat of clear is applied before the previous coat has completely outgassed. When there is a run the CC is extra thick and the normal wait time doesn't apply. When I get a run I generally stop painting and go in the house and watch TV for a while. If you're using SPI Universal Clear Barry gives the best advise.
Ron |
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Quote:
Ive tried explaining to my wife flash times, etc. Ive tried everything even comparing it to make-up. ie; first the primer (consealer), then the base (powder) the the clear coat, etc.. |
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