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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:56 AM
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If you're still seeing the outline of the run, there's a good chance you did not sand far enough to flatten the run. If you're going to use the ruck for work purposes, you may want to live with it. If you have to study the area where the run is I would forget about it unless you just can't live with it. For a first timer, you did good.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 05:06 PM
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I hate painting over rivets or i should say I hate clearing or flowing paint over rivets. When I'm painting over rivets, I have to stop, and then adjust my gun speed so I don't flow the paint too much for the riveted area.
If I use the same gun speed over the rivets that I use on a non rivet area, I'll get runs from the rivets, especially if I am using a slow clear.
I hate them.
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:33 PM
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I'm sure it's safe to say anybody that has worked in a shop where Semi's or anything with rivets needs to be painted, they are universally hated. I've had the misfortune of painting way to many Peterbuilt's and I've had the pleasure of hearing other painters use more verbs to express their feelings towards them, letting me know it wasn't just me that hated rivets. For me I found if I put a mist coat over the rivets before i painted over top I had a much better chance of not getting runs. I imagine adjusting your gun speed or speeding up your speed would help minimize runs.

Ray
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:23 PM
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I really appreciate everybody's advice with this project. I could not stand looking at the side of that sleeper so i broke out the wet sand paper and long board and sanded it back down and as several of you have suggested, I had not went far enough with my sanding. I hit it with 400 and then let it dry and even though it felt smooth, when it dried there they were again, the outline of the old runs. I went back with 400 and then 600 and re-shot the side of the sleeper using rays little trick of pre spraying the rivets and both sides of the sleeper are almost perfect. It would be great if that was the end of the story, but being the newby i am i decided to put another coat on each of the front hood side panels just for good measure and if i'm lying i'm dying, i bumped the tire with my gun air filter and put a huge run on one panel. oh well, sand paper is cheap and i still have plenty of paint. I am an owner operator from north florida near a little town called chipley. Thanks, Daron
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:42 PM
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[QUOTE=des;1665794]I really appreciate everybody's advice with this project. I could not stand looking at the side of that sleeper so i broke out the wet sand paper and long board and sanded it back down and as several of you have suggested, I had not went far enough with my sanding. I hit it with 400 and then let it dry and even though it felt smooth, when it dried there they were again, the outline of the old runs. I went back with 400 and then 600 and re-shot the side of the sleeper using rays little trick of pre spraying the rivets and both sides of the sleeper are almost perfect. It would be great if that was the end of the story, but being the newby i am i decided to put another coat on each of the front hood side panels just for good measure and if i'm lying i'm dying, i bumped the tire with my gun air filter and put a huge run on one panel. oh well, sand paper is cheap and i still have plenty of paint. I am an owner operator from north florida near a little town called chipley. Thanks, Daron[/QUOTE

I'm sorry...but your last little comment about the bump and run...you are now officially a painter...LOL. If you haven't done something that screws up a paint job after it looks good, you aren't a painter, a painter always strives to make it better....My story is way worse that yours.

This isn't one up-man-ship...this is more like one down-man-ship (I'm the down). I had just finished one of the most labor intensive paint jobs I had done to that point in my career, about 20 colors, not exaggerating, at least 20 colors...just finished clearing it and it looked good...I mean I was beaming...so I go to clean my gun, put gunwash in the pot and walked back in the booth to look at my master piece, I start swishing the gunwash around to get all the clear off the the sides of the pot, to damn proud of my paint job to think about putting a lid on the pot and gunwash all over my not so shiny but real runny, messy paint job. The gunwash made landed on the hood, the sides, it was so bad it went through 4 coats of clear and melted the base. So, the next morning I started over. We've all done it...but like you said, sandpaper's cheap and you have lots of paint left.

Glad to hear that the mist coat over the rivets worked for you Daron, by the time you have this truck done your going to be a pro. Just think of all that extra cash your going to make painting your buddy's rigs...LOL. Usually though, after a guy does his own, he realizes why shops charge what they do.

Ray
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:19 PM
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I've got to say that story makes me feel better. I can not believe how in depth this painting is and how many variables can be involved. You are right a good paint job is definitely worth the money. I had a paint job done at maaco in Dothan Alabama and that is what inspired me to try this one. I back tracked today redoing the white, but if nothing happens i hope to have the rest of the orange on tomorrow. thanks again.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:23 PM
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Hey Dez. Just a thought. As much paint as you have on that rig. Try not to leave any masking tape on longer than necessary. It will prevent the solvents from coming out and can leave permanent imprints.

John
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:36 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I repainted the white today and tomorrow i was going to put a strip of plastic tape on part of the white to split my colors and spray the top half of the truck with orange will i be all right to put that tape on there and when should i take the tape and masking paper back off after i shoot the orange. thanks.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by des View Post
Thanks for the tip. I repainted the white today and tomorrow i was going to put a strip of plastic tape on part of the white to split my colors and spray the top half of the truck with orange will i be all right to put that tape on there and when should i take the tape and masking paper back off after i shoot the orange. thanks.
There are others on here who are more qualified than I am but I would suggest you remove the masking after the paint is good and dry to the touch. If you remove it too soon it will be stringy and won't give you a good crisp line. If you leave it for a day or too it may leave an imprint.

John
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:52 PM
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Well, every time you sand the Semi down, every time you put more paint on, your getting more experience and no doubt it's starting to look better every time.

I'm glad the story of my little mishap made you feel better...this kind of thing has happened to every painter I've ever known, that's why I told you about what happened to me....and yes at the time it seems absolutely terrible and it is but, it's one of those things that you can laugh about as time goes by.

Shoot your Orange tomorrow and let us know how it turned out.

Good luck my friend and only the best wishes.

Ray
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:56 PM
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ray, what do you think about how long i should leave that tape on when i shoot the orange. i sure dont want to leave any marks with the tape. thanks
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by des View Post
Thanks for the tip. I repainted the white today and tomorrow i was going to put a strip of plastic tape on part of the white to split my colors and spray the top half of the truck with orange will i be all right to put that tape on there and when should i take the tape and masking paper back off after i shoot the orange. thanks.

Don't put the pin stripe on until the paint has cured. The solvents are going to try and come out and with the plastic pin stripe on it, the solvents are going to take the stripe along with it. Just mask your colors the way you would normally mask...The pin stripe should be wide enough to cover an imperfection in the masking.

You have your white painted...use masking tape and paper to cover your white. Tape the white of where you want your Orange to start...paint your Orange...unmask it...let it cure...apply your pin stripe.

Very important...if your not clear, let me know, I'll try and make it more clear for you.

Ray
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:12 PM
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Dez, We love pictures if you have a wide angle lense that will capture that Pete.

John
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:17 PM
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all right i will see what i can do about getting some pictures. i need to do it quick because my wife is threatening to set it on fire. thanks again for the help
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by des View Post
ray, what do you think about how long i should leave that tape on when i shoot the orange. i sure dont want to leave any marks with the tape. thanks
You mentioned before that the paint was difficult to sand the next day. Take a piece of masking tape and tape it down on an inconspicuous spot that you painted today. Press it down real hard, let it sit there for 20 minutes...press it down again and peel it off. If it doesn't leave a mark, you can mask the truck for Orange. If it does, you need to wait probably another day, then try the same thing with the masking tape.

If your ready to shoot the Orange tomorrow, get your color on and let it set up a couple of hours, the paint will still be fresh but you can carefully take the masking tape and paper off. When you take the masking tape off, take it off at about a 45 degree angle away from the orange paint...in other words, pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle towards the white you just painted. That way the fresh paint won't peel off of what you just painted. The chemical part of the adhesion process isn't complete until the paint is totally cured. You don't want to wait to long either...if the paint is cured, it can start to chip off, you want it soft enough to easily remove it.

These are things, like painting over top of rivets, that become second nature and I apologize for not explaining it before. If I was there showing instead of trying to give you tips in writing it would probably be easier for both of us.

Again, if you need more of an explanation, let me know and I'll explain further.

Ray
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