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Old 04-09-2013, 07:46 PM
des des is offline
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runs in paint

I am painting my semi truck with single stage urethane. I put the first coat on over a high solid 2k primer and had quite a few runs i let it dry overnight and sanded with 400 then 600 until surface felt level. i put two more lighter coats on and when you look close down the side in the white paint you can see an outline of where those runs were in the first coat. The finish is pretty coarse anyway esp. around the rivets like most semis. do i need to try and sand it again and put on another coat or try and polish it out. thanks for the help.

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Old 04-09-2013, 08:00 PM
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I suspect if you have 4 coats on it you could color sand and buff it. Won't hurt to try. If you go through the paint you can always go back and do 2 more coats.

John L
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:24 PM
des des is offline
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thanks john, How aggressive should i be with the color sanding. I was looking through some other posts and i think i may have sanded too soon with the surrounding paint being to soft what do you think?
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:56 PM
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If the paint is still soft, I need to ask if it's poly urethane that you sprayed or acrylic urethane. If it's poly urethane, it can take a fair amount of time to dry, if it's acrylic urethane you should be able to sand it with in 24 hours and recoat it or polish it depending on temperature during the curing process, if the temperature was cool, you could be looking at several days before you can color sand or recoat it. If you plan on trying to polish it, use a block with 800 grit wet paper to sand the surface smooth, move up to 1000, then 1500 and I like to finish anything that I polish with 2000 or even 2500 grit wet paper. With the surface being finished that fine you should be able to almost hand polish it...(use a machine, it's a semi after all). If you plan on recoating the semi, 400 grit or 600 wet is fine enough. Perhaps check your gun set up, if you have an improper pattern or to much fluid volume, runs are going to happen.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by des View Post
thanks john, How aggressive should i be with the color sanding. I was looking through some other posts and i think i may have sanded too soon with the surrounding paint being to soft what do you think?
Ray's advice is right on.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:20 PM
des des is offline
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I really appreciate the information. I just went out and looked at it again. I finished the last coat at 12pm and the surface looks shiny and good until you turn on the lights and get up close and look at it at an angle where you can see a texture but not really a bad orange peel but the left over outlines from the previous runs can be seen but i did not get any fresh runs in the last two coats. What do you guys think? sand and re shoot or wet sand and polish. The paint is acrylic urethane and when i fixed the original runs after the first coat it sanded fine the next morning. I put the first coat on to heavy, sanded and fixed the next day with two more medium coats 20 minutes in between coats to be sure to let it flash long enough. Do yall think i will get into trouble continuing to sand and recoat this huge 379 peterbilt. Thanks again

Last edited by des; 04-09-2013 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:17 AM
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The old 379 Peterbuilt...I don't even want to tell you how many of those I've painted in Dupont Imron...I think every time I painted one my arm was about 12 inches longer from leaning and stretching.

OK so we have Acrylic Urethane, if the outlines of the runs are not that noticeable, you could wet sand and polish. the problem is that wherever you wet sand and polish, your going to have smooth, shiny paint and the rest of the cab will have a bit of Orange Peel. I will tell you something that I hate saying but, you need to know. The Peterbuilt is white, correct, take the truck outside in the sunlight, look at it there, you know where the runs were. The sunlight will make your paint job look about 50% better. After you've seen it outside, make your decision on recoating or polishing then...you may be surprised. Another thing to take into consideration is that your second color is Orange...that color is going to take peoples eyes away from the White. If it was my truck, I would try and polish it...I'm not trying to be arrogant...but...Having experience in color sanding and polishing makes a difference. Try taking it outside...then make your choice.

As far as sanding and recoating and getting into trouble, it's a Peterbuilt, they where painted with Dupont Imron, depending on the year and the color it originally came with it would probably be Imron 5000 (Single Stage) or Imron 6000 (Base/Clear), either one of these is much thicker than the Acrylic Urethane your putting on it now...you should have 1 or 2 more recoats before you run into any problems, like the rivets disappearing because of to much paint...LOL...I always hated those rivets...not painting them, but prepping them is a PITA>

I hope this helps and would appreciate what your decision is after you see it outside.

Ray
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:25 AM
des des is offline
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ray, thanks for the info i can tell by the way you talk you can feel my pain. those freakin rivets are killing me and they are where i have had so much trouble getting this thing smooth and level w/o build up on or cutting the tops off the rivets. red scratch pads have helped where the paint was ok i just scuffed and primed but so many of these rivets had rust. I sanded the rust off them took a small scotch pad disk and then went around the edges to get all the rust. i then treated each rivet with rust converter then itch primed them and then used 2k heavy build primer. It was terrible trying to get those things smoothed back down but i did not want to leave that rust under there the truck came from michigan. some of the problems with the finish are the rough areas around some of the rivets and then you throw in the outlines of the old runs and it makes for a textured finish to say the least. I said all that to say this. I think you are right and if i do get those run areas nice and smooth the areas around the rivets are not going to match and i did not think about that orange pulling the eyes away from that white. I am going out right now to take your advice and put the truck in the sun i will check back tonight to see if you have any advice and i will start to work on the orange i wish you could see this contraption i have rigged up to hang like a monkey and try to paint this huge unibuilt stand up sleeper. thank you for the help.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:19 AM
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I'm happy to help and yes I do feel your pain. I also owe you an apology, you came here looking for advice, I have painted many a Semi In my day and there is one key piece of advice that I should have given you before you started priming, before you started painting. I not only feel for you, I feel terrible that I didn't give you this important piece of advice sooner. Are you ready....Don't be a hater after I tell you this because when I do, it will make sense and you'll be P.O.ed that I didn't mention it sooner.

When I sued to paint Semi's with rivets (like I mentioned earlier, most of the Semi's I painted where Peterbuilt's with rivets). If I was to prime or paint a Semi today, this is the first thing I would do, especially with single stage...Hit the rivets with primer or paint first with a light coat of whatever your painting, primer or paint...let it flash...now you have a surface that is tacky...not like freshly sanded smooth metal or primer...when you spray the paint over these areas it has less chance to move over those protruding rivets and you will minimize getting runs.

In my defense, I haven't painted a Semi in about 10 years and if I was to do one today it would be like riding a bicycle and I wouldn't need to think about it, I would just do it. I woke up at about 4 AM and I thought to myself, Damn, why didn't you give that advice. My bad, I could have saved you a lot of time and I truly do feel bad about it, but, when you spray your Orange, you will see what I mean and if you ever paint anything with rivets again it'll be like your riding that bicycle...LOL

Again, I apologize and hope this helps with your Orange paint.

Ray
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:18 PM
des des is offline
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Boy that hit me right between the eyes. every run i have started at a rivet. That is very logical and practical advice it never crossed my brain, but it makes perfect sense and i painted the very top today so i have several rows of rivets left to do so i really appreciate that little tip. I guess there is nothing like experience. I erected a 12foot make-shift scaffold on either side of the truck in my make-shift paint booth where space is very limited and put a 15 foot walk board across the truck and shimmied out onto it and got two coats of orange on the top of the sleeper and the cab. I now have to take down the scaffolding so i can get to the truck and paint the orange on the sides of the truck I took the orange to the edge of the sleeper and the cab. What are your thoughts on blending the paint on the edge where the new orange i spray tomorrow will meet the orange i sprayed today. I looked at the truck like you said and with the sun on it it really looks pretty good so for now i am going to take your advice and leave it alone because i have no experience with color sanding. i checked my gun and dialed back the paint like you said and found an air leak in the long hose i am using and the orange went on much better than the white. Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:39 PM
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Happy to help you Des, and yes, the putting a light coat over top the riveted area first will make your job a lot easier and a lot fewer runs...I say fewer because any and every painter gets runs...like I've said before the only painter hasn't gotten a run either hasn't painted very much or paints real dry and I'd sooner deal with a painter that gets runs than dry spray.

I'm glad to hear that the white looks better outside, sunlight usually does make paint look better. Blending is an art and it does take a fair bit of experience to get an invisible blend and sometimes if you screw up a bit it looks worse. How about I give you a suggestion that may make this part of your life a little less stressful. You have 2 colors, Orange and White...how about a plastic, on a roll pin stripe to split the two colors up. Hard mask the roof that you just Painted Orange and put a pin stripe on the tape line, the same color as between the Orange and White...that way you won't need to buy a gallon of blending solvent, it will break up the line between the Orange and White, again, take the eyes away from any imperfections and you won't have any chance of a blend not working out.

Pin striping tape comes in many widths and colors, seeing you have a big truck, a 3/8th or even a 1/2 inch stripe wouldn't look out of place. A Black or dark metallic Gray would look good. Most Body Shop Supply places have rolls of pin striping tape...just pick out a color and if you need advice on how to put it on straight...let me know, I'll give you a few tips.

Hope this helps Des.

Ray
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:00 PM
des des is offline
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I have never seen a pin stripe up on the edge of the sleeper. It might work and that would sure simplify painting the side. What do you think about putting a white pin stripe on the edge of the sleeper where the two oranges meet and then an orange one where the white and orange will meet about half way up the side of the truck. Do i just put the pinstripe right on the paint or do i have to sand the area down smooth. Boy, you got me to thinking. You might be right what about that metallic gray. I have got to try and refigure the color scheme. If i put a metallic gray stripe on in both places and then had my vinyl signs made with a combination of colors that might be sharp. Ray now you really have me thinking. Could i mask off a wide stripe that would straddle those problem rivets and shoot a two inch wide orange stripe across those rivets and if i do could i really go back and sand down those rough areas around those rivets.

Last edited by des; 04-10-2013 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:19 PM
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White on Orange would work, and Orange on White and Orange...yeah, it could work as long as the Orange was fairly close to the Orange that you put on the truck. You wouldn't need to sand before you put a pin stripe down, you should however wait a few days to make sure that all of the solvents are out of the paint otherwise it can lift the stripe.

To put on a stripe, chose a tarting point, remove a little part of the backing paper and firmly press it on the truck where you want it to start...peel off more of the backing paper and move to where you want the tripe to end, Keep a little tension on the stripe and attach it to where you want the stripe to end...the tension will keep the stripe straight,,,then press the pinstripe down in the center, half way between both sides and keep going until you are sure the stripe won't move or get crocked on you, press the stripe down all along the stripe and here's a tip...with a razor blade, take off the clear plastic covering that protects the stripe in the package by gently lifting an edge where you either started or ended the stripe.

I hope that was clear enough...if not let me know.

Ray
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:01 PM
des des is offline
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I am glad you got back to me. I am going to play around with these combinations and i will let you know what i come up with thanks for the help.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:14 PM
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Please do...and I'd be interested in what the Semi looks like when you done. If you don't mind me asking where about's are you from?, I've worked with truckers from all over North America doing their trucks with paint and air brush work...maybe we know a few of the same people especially Perterbuilt's...it would be cool if we had common friends out on the road,,,I know it's a long shot but, I had a buddy of mine that ai hadn't talked to in a few years and he emailed me asking if it was in fact me...it turned out it was and he said I recognized you by the way you wrote...LOL.

Yes Please keep me informed.

Ray
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