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Old 06-26-2003, 10:20 AM
Rob the blob's Avatar
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Rust Converter - SEM

Hi All,
I'm new to this Forum, I've checked out a couple of the Treads on this, but i'm not sure that My question was touched upon.

Here goes:
I have an old Dodge, In some places on the outside of the body there is "Surface Rust" Once I grind it down it went back to a metal color, but still have some small pits in it. Heres what my local Body shop supply gave me to solve this problem.

SEM -Rust Converter- The contents include Phosphoric Acid. Now they said to grind down the rust, apply the SEM converter, let sit overnight untill it turns black. Then Using 100 grit paper sand down and apply Etching / Filling Primer. Then using 200 Paper sand again, Use Etching / Filling Primer, then if there are still pits showing, go down to a 300 grit paper and then etch / filler prime again. This should bring back the level to that of the surrounding finish.

What my question is: Can i skip the sem converter, as once the metal is primed, and then topcoated won't air and moisture have no access to the rust, and therefore stop the rusting process?

Also, Isn't there supposed to be a step where i neutralize the Rust Converter? I always thought that products containing acid must be neutralized first.

Rob "Hammer on the Ladder"
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Old 06-26-2003, 09:13 PM
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Hi Im a body tech in Maryland rust is tough you can never get rid of it you may slow it down with rust convertors but it will come back .In cases such as yours if the customer dosen't want to replace the rusted panel we grind the surface and drill out all the rust pin holes and weld them up clean both sides of the panel with acid etch and then epoxy prime.and yet sometimes this will still rusy over years but it will last a good long time.make sure you get both sides free of paint and clean and undercoat the back side when your done
Good luck Jeff
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