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Old 04-25-2013, 12:25 PM
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Rust in the door cavity... 8(

I've found some rust in the door cavity of my classic mini, it isn't extremely bad were the rust has eaten through the other side. my question is how would I go about resolving the situation, I was thinking about rustproofing it, but thought I should ask you guys first. So any advice would be good to hear, from what brand of products to buy or your technique on how to rustproof, thanks again. The stuff on the side isn't rust, I think it's over spay of adhesive.
The last pic isn't my mini but i didn't take a pic of the entire door so i just found one, so you can get a better idea of what I'm working with, the rust is at the bottom where the two holes are. Thanks.




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Old 04-25-2013, 12:49 PM
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is the flange bulging out on the backside? Hit it with something sharp and it might just crumble on you. The bigger the dimple it leaves the thinner the metal, if it doesn't just break thru on you. If you didn't want to do a door skin/door skin bottom you could always use a rust convertor and rust sealer. On my Mustang, which had very little rust, I sprayed zero rust into the cavity and then poured some into the door bottom and brushed it thoroughly. Expect it to come oozing out of the holes on the bottom of your door. Make sure nothing obstructs those holes.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:26 AM
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is the flange bulging out on the backside? Hit it with something sharp and it might just crumble on you. The bigger the dimple it leaves the thinner the metal, if it doesn't just break thru on you. If you didn't want to do a door skin/door skin bottom you could always use a rust convertor and rust sealer. On my Mustang, which had very little rust, I sprayed zero rust into the cavity and then poured some into the door bottom and brushed it thoroughly. Expect it to come oozing out of the holes on the bottom of your door. Make sure nothing obstructs those holes.
um what is a door skin never heard of them before, could you tell me what it is?
But I think I might go with zero rust paint and aerosol can, only problem is I can barely fit my hand through the lower holes on the door but I'll make it work.
You're taking about the holes where the water drains out, right. Thanks, for your advice by the way. (:
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:37 AM
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a door skin is the outer skin sold as just the skin and not the shell.

you could also use por 15 if you can get the darn lid off of it. It sticks so well you have to use q-tips to clean the lip around the lid and can, and it will still be a pain to open up. It's really good stuff but I've seen it flake right off at times. Can't say I'm sure why but expect bad prepping...and it would be hard to prep a door cavity really well, so I'm hesitant to suggest it. Maybe someone can chime in on silver bullet(?) or silver something??? I hear it's good. There's other options but I like zero rust cause it doesn't stink up the whole place.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
a door skin is the outer skin sold as just the skin and not the shell.

you could also use por 15 if you can get the darn lid off of it. It sticks so well you have to use q-tips to clean the lip around the lid and can, and it will still be a pain to open up. It's really good stuff but I've seen it flake right off at times. Can't say I'm sure why but expect bad prepping...and it would be hard to prep a door cavity really well, so I'm hesitant to suggest it. Maybe someone can chime in on silver bullet(?) or silver something??? I hear it's good. There's other options but I like zero rust cause it doesn't stink up the whole place.
Oh, are door skins any good?
Yea, that's my thought too.. I can't really prep my door cavity like suggested on most products but I did use a wire bush to brush off the flakes of rust and stuff then I vacuumed it up. That's bout it, I gotta get something that doesn't need too much prep.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:11 AM
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door skins vary. The issue is cheap metal and fitment issues. Probably better off just sealing it off from oxygen.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:12 AM
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A trick for keeping Por-15 longer after opening and for keeping the lid from bonding to the can is filling the can with argon befor resealing the can. I just disconnect the argon hose from my tig welder, insert it in the can opening (keeping it out of the POR-15) and turn on the argon for about 20 sec.. The argon displaces the moisture and oxygen, and being that POR-15 is a moisture cured urethane, it does not harden in the can or inner sealing surface. I read that argon is used by many urethane paint manufactures so I tried it about 2 years ago with great results and have not had to throw away any POR-15 that had gone "bad" since.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:05 PM
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If it were me I would spritz some *Rustmort in there through a spray bottle whlie you hash out a plan..
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