rust encapsulator help - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2004, 04:23 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,908
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
rust encapsulator help

If you guys can stand one more about a subject that has already been beat to death I would like to know if eastwoods rust encapsulator can be applied over untreated sand blasted metal. I have some small rust pits in my mustang doors(inside the door) that would not come out with the light sand blasting that I used. I am afraid to blast any more as some minor warpage has already occured but at this point it is easily repairable. Everything I have used in the past requires rust to activate and must be removed from clean metal. If I understand right, por 15 would require a metal prep that would have to then be flushed with water which is not very practical here. What I would like (if there is such a thing)is something that could be used on the light rust and tiny pits without acid pretreatment that would also not adversely affect the clean surrounding metal. Would the encapsulator do this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2004, 04:30 PM
Muscle car fan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 865
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
what i did in a few spots on my car that were too small to justify cutting them out i blasted, then used phosphoric (sp?) acid to treat the rust, then hand sanded then applied chopped fiberglass over them, i'll let you know in 3-10 years how it worked out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2004, 04:35 PM
Restore60s's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Kentucky
Age: 55
Posts: 291
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
eastwood products

What I did was get from Eastwood the Evercoat metal filller and put it in the pitting, sand it down smooth and then apply the rust encapsulator over it then the primer. That's been 18 months ago and I have not seen any problems. Now that's like you said after sandblasting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:31 PM
unstable's Avatar
Murderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Age: 35
Posts: 701
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally posted by Dubz
what i did in a few spots on my car that were too small to justify cutting them out i blasted, then used phosphoric (sp?) acid to treat the rust, then hand sanded then applied chopped fiberglass over them, i'll let you know in 3-10 years how it worked out.
Just FYI, the metal ready solution for Por-15, I'm thinking is indeed Phosphoric acid. And technically, it's supposed to be flushed off of the metal. I don't know if it would cause any long term problems leaving it on, but it does leave a crusty-residue if you just splash it on and let it do its thing.

This all occured to me when I was up at Wray Schelins shop, he had me use some Naval Jelly to scrub some surface rust off of some panels he had formed. Naval Jelly is basically just phosphoric acid in a jelly form.

But rather than just rub it on with the steel wool, I had to work in small areas and use a soapy spritz to clean it off afterwards. The areas I didn't clean well enough were apparent, you could see what looked like dried toothpaste on the areas where the acid was still sitting.

ALL IN ALL,

I don't think there would be anything wrong with using the metal prep or phosphoric acid on an area and then NOT flushing it off. Especially if the area is not going to be visible.

I'm by no means any kind of expert, but I've used POR-15 on the insides of my doors when I had them cut apart. What I would do if I could do it all over is.

-Get a good supply of the metal ready crap.
-Good supply of POR-15 AND thinner.

I'd put on a respirator and load up a paint gun with the metal ready and spray the inside of the door down quite well. Then I'd load up the gun with the POR-15 with thinner and spray the inside, trying to saturate it.

HTH
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.