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Old 06-22-2006, 01:33 PM
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rust inside cab, how much to paint

hi have a 82 S10 and i recently gutted the interior, and will be sanding the ssurface rust off the floorpan. The truck has original red paint, but i eventually want the inside of the truck to be painted black and the outside to be painted white. However, i do NOT want to paint the exterior of the truck white yet, just coat the inside black and cover the newly sanded metal.

I'm quite a beginner, so i need a little help with what to do. I assume i should buy a DA sander, remove the rust, but after that i dunno what to do.

Do i sand the whole inside of the cab to remove all the original paint even where there is no rust?
I want teh inside to be matte black, so can i just use black epoxy primer for a permanent coat?
Where do i mask off, just the door sill areas?

im pretty confused now as to how to do this, just want the inside to be rust free and the metal to be matte black, without doing the whole exterior too.

thanks,
jerome

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Old 06-22-2006, 02:24 PM
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Usually interior paint is in good condition where there's not much exposure to direct sunlight. I'd remove any rust and sand the rest of the paint with 180 grit scuffing the hard to reach areas with a red scothbrite, then apply two coats of black epoxy primer. Paint the primer with a single stage urethane and it should last for a very long time.

Other things to consider- before you start sanding wash all surfaces with wax and grease remover and seal any floor seams with seamsealer after the epoxy primer is applied. Interiors are sometimes tough to clean if there's been a lot of silicon based interior cleaners used like Armor All so do the wax and grease remover before you start. Bob
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Old 06-22-2006, 05:47 PM
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I don't usually agree with using W&G remover before sanding, except on the interior. You not only have the cleaners used inside, but also the smoking and such. The finish on the interior can actually have more chemicals on it than the exterior paint.

Aaron
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:46 PM
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I remember a little chevette I painted way back in body class days. The kid who owned it was one of the mechanics instructors kids, and was in the autobody night class, so he had limited hours to work on it. He also formed ground effects out of sheetmetal for the little car. Actually kind of cool for a chevette anyways. Anyhow, he had the interior gutted and sanded and I was asked to paint it, talk about fisheye city, first time and only time I added fisheye eliminator and do some filling. Thats the only thing I ever remember painting that really had a lot of fisheyes. Good advice Bob and aaron. Armor all has to be about the worst thing to have on anything you are painting. Never understood how some shops (dealerships) use to have detailing and painting operations close to one another and the detailers using armorall, wheel well dressing and other junk like that, Get a breeze through the shop and I can almost assure you where its heading. If that car has ever been used and sitting on a dealership lot at one time in its life, I can almost assure you its had armor all, trim black and other junk used on it.
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Old 06-23-2006, 03:21 PM
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when you say sand the rest of the paint, does that mean i should remove it, or just rough it up for new paint to adhere to?
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Old 06-23-2006, 09:38 PM
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Exactly, sand/scuff the old paint where it won't be removed. If you don't scuff it you'll have adhesion problems.
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