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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
one thing you can do to "completely" remove rust and see just how bad it really is ,is to build an electrolilitic rust tank with a 12v battery charger and some sodium carbonate (wash soda not baking soda)....Its very easy and cost less than 20.00 to build ..."NOTHING" removes rust as well as this...it'll get the inside as well as the outside and in between the folded lips that even media blasting cant get at... in 24 hrs...just fill the tank with the solution ,put the door in the tank, hook up the chargerand walk away,its easy, Ive done this and was very impressed...It'll even get rusted nuts and bolts loose.These are the only pics I have on hand but the process works on anything thats rusty...
Once the rust is taken care of and you have bare (unprotected )metal ,what I do is scrub in some ospho and let it dry then use an epoxy primer (only) to seal it up...
dang. That's a very clean brake rotor. i'll have to try that. How much soda per gallon of water? Are the electrodes just pieces of scrap metal?
thanks.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2010, 07:01 AM
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The ratio is about 1 tbl spoon per gallon but its really not that critical. Also 12v works just as well as 120v My tank only drew around 4amps 15 gallons.I've seen some people use arc welders for power supplies and it dosent work as well..so more power is NOT better...I plan on getting a kiddy pool at walmart next when I'm ready to do my next project. Ive experimented with the tank a little and found some interesting things ...
1) hooking it up backwards isnt disastrous nothing happens (at all) except the part bubbles not the sacrificial electrode (anode)

2 the anode will start bubbling almost instantly (so you'll know its working)

3) set the anodes on one end of the tank and the part on the other....I thought because of gravity it would be better having the anodes on the bottom of the tank,its not it works best side to side

4) keep your charger lead clips out of the solution they'll corode quickly.the copper plating will come off just like the rust does..
5) more anode mass works better.I set one on each side and one at the end oppisite end of the tank
for the best and quickest results clean the anodes every few hours ,I used a electric brush (they get crudy fast (see pics)

6) Even 12v will shock the living sheet out of you... so turn off the power when cleaning the anodes (With 3 anodes I was pulling one out at a time and cleaning them with the power still on and thought it was a great time saver) DONT DO IT !!!!
7) rinse the part off right away that black stuff is very hard to get off once it drys(its easier just to put it back in and do it again

doing this was a lot of fun as well as interesting and I learned a lot ...its nothing new, this process has been around for hundreds of years...
its safe but use in a ventilated area...read up on the subject before doing it theres a few warnings like not using stainless steel for your anodes...
theres a lot of improvements you can make to make it work even better like using carbon insted of steel or iron for the anodes and putting filters on it so you dont have to clean the anodes so often but that all comes to ya as you go.start with the basics...
You'll find yourself looking all over the place for rusty stuff (anything thats rusty) to put in the tank...heres a saw blade I found when I was digging my garden I knew it was around here somewhere...I lost it about four years ago...Very pitted.....Have fun with it...
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-15-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:32 AM
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i wouldn't use 120V for electrolytic rust removal. that could be deadly if you touch the electrodes.

most of the electrolytic rust removal setups you'll find mentioned on the internet are 12V ones. but 24V should be reasonably safe too, many large diesel trucks run their electrical system at this voltage without any special safety precautions.

on some of the newer cars, engineers have been tinkering with charging systems around 40V. in these cars, the charging terminals are usually covered fluorescent orange or fluorescent yellow with big stickers warning of an electrocution hazard. so i'd stay out of the 30+ Volt range for safety reasons.

Last edited by 2vmodular; 07-15-2010 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:36 AM
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if you do play with an arc welder, be aware that the no-load voltage at the welding lead terminals can spike up really high. some of these can get close to 100 volts even though the normal welding voltage is less than half that.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:59 AM
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try this:

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/...d/1078349.html
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:03 PM
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OOps ,2v is right ,although I said my charger was 12v I wasnt thinking right this morning ,its a 24v made for charging a wheel chair ,I have to charge two 12v batteries at a time while connected in series...but its the current that zaps you and the high current of a welder will kill.trust me 24v or 12v will knock you on your butt under the right cercumstances.

Pre made patches can be a good choice too if they are good quality ....most are not even close...see if there are any comments from people that used them first...
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:15 PM
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i'm tempted to play with electrolytic rust removal on a couple steel wheels from a 2000 mercury grand marquis. using phosphoric acid to etch away the rust is taking what seems like an eternity.

how does electrolytic rust removal do with rust "scale" that's just starting to form. the wheel i'm working on now has a few small spots on it where the metal is clean on the surface, but bubbled up a little bit with rust forming underneath a small thin layer of "good metal". the thin layer of "good metal" is attached to the rest of the wheel metal really firmly, with apparently just a few pinholes letting moisture into the rust pocket underneath.
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Old 07-15-2010, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2vmodular
i'm tempted to play with electrolytic rust removal on a couple steel wheels from a 2000 mercury grand marquis. using phosphoric acid to etch away the rust is taking what seems like an eternity.

how does electrolytic rust removal do with rust "scale" that's just starting to form. the wheel i'm working on now has a few small spots on it where the metal is clean on the surface, but bubbled up a little bit with rust forming underneath a small thin layer of "good metal". the thin layer of "good metal" is attached to the rest of the wheel metal really firmly, with apparently just a few pinholes letting moisture into the rust pocket underneath.

What do you suppose the inside of your Door Skin looks like?
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2vmodular
i'm tempted to play with electrolytic rust removal on a couple steel wheels from a 2000 mercury grand marquis. using phosphoric acid to etch away the rust is taking what seems like an eternity.

how does electrolytic rust removal do with rust "scale" that's just starting to form. the wheel i'm working on now has a few small spots on it where the metal is clean on the surface, but bubbled up a little bit with rust forming underneath a small thin layer of "good metal". the thin layer of "good metal" is attached to the rest of the wheel metal really firmly, with apparently just a few pinholes letting moisture into the rust pocket underneath.
If you look close at the saw blade it has big pits and they all have caps on them with ospho I have to knock all those caps off with a pick.I threw that blade in the tank as is I did nothing to it,so any rust at all will be transferd to the anode.I even threw in some rusted pipe the inside was as clean as the outside,so I'd say as long as its steel or iron there will be no rust left at all.
I did have a slight problem getting the wash soda I had to order it from service star hardware,it not something you can just pick up at the laundry soap section at the super market ,I tried....As long as the whole wheel is submerged in the solution it'll work...
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