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-   -   Rust removal and some pitting from metal (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-some-pitting-metal-229515.html)

Jathanw 02-13-2013 04:40 PM

Rust removal and some pitting from metal
 
Hi I have this 1950's texaco metal truck that's been handed down in my family. It's got some rust on it. I have sanded and wire brushed it. After I did that I noticed some pitting. My father passed away and I want to restore this to original. Anyone have any ideas on how to clean it up before I paint it? I can take pictures later if that helps.
Thanks
Jathan:welcome:

69 widetrack 02-13-2013 05:02 PM

Sorry to hear about your loss and I understand how valuable some of these items can be to a family. I do have several questions that would need to be answered so I can give you the best advice possible.

Are we talking about a toy metal truck? Or is it a full sized tanker?

Do you have paint equipment like a gun and compressor or assuming it's a toy truck, where you planning on using rattle can paint?

Is there rust still in the pits? Or where they not that deep and where you able to sand the rust out?

Pictures would help.

Just need a bit more information to give you the best advice.

Ray

69 widetrack 02-13-2013 05:03 PM

And welcome to the forum, will try and help where ever I can.

Ray

kleen56 02-13-2013 05:11 PM

It sounds like the rust etched into the metal and caused the metal to be pitted. Unfortunately, the only way to resolve that would be to use a filler to fill in the rough area, sand and paint, or... if there is enough metal, you could grind the the rusted area as smooth as possible without sanding through the metal, then primer and paint. If you paint it with the pitting, it will mostly likely show throw. You can also try a filler type of primer which is thick and may fill in the imperfections before you paint.

Jathanw 02-13-2013 05:35 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Its a toy truck.
htthttp://imageshack.us/a/img35/3167/20130213174154.jpgp://imageshack.us/a/img35/3167/20130213174154.jpg

69 widetrack 02-13-2013 05:54 PM

OK so we are working on a toy and the pits are fairly deep and filled with rust....If you look in the yellow pages for a sandblaster or media blaster he could remove the rest of the paint and the rust and give your metal an even profile. Because it's a toy they wouldn't charge very much, I'd say between $15 and $30 (not knowing the size of the truck I would say $30 is on the high side. With your metal's profile now being even you would need to prime the metal, i still don't know if you have painting equipment so I'm going to assume that you don't and are going to use aerosol cans of primer and paint. Apply several coats of primer, and sand with a fine grit of paper after it has dried...something like a 320 or 400 grit. If you still have pits after it's been primed and sanded, prime it again, let it dry and sand it again, repeat the process until the surface that you want to paint is smooth....once it's smooth, paint away.

Hope this helps.

Ray

gearheadslife 02-13-2013 05:54 PM

dip it in a bath of molasses.. first

Jathanw 02-13-2013 05:59 PM

Sorry ray. I don't have any spray equipment yet. I plan on purchasing some. Abby suggestions or Any gun can work? I figured id have to get it sandblasted. Just didn't know if there were any other ways, or something I needed to do beforehand
Jathan

69 widetrack 02-13-2013 06:17 PM

If your not in a hurry and you leave it with a sandblaster I think it would be fairly cheap, if he could blast it while he's doing a bigger job.

As far as equipment goes, I hope your planing on painting more than your truck because it can get expensive...you can purchase a paint gun cheap enough from Harbor Freight but a compressor is going to cost a lot of cash no matter how you look at it. Let me know if your still planning on purchasing a paint gun and other equipment and I will try and walk you through what you might need.

What type of paint where you planning on using? This can get quite expensive as well...if memory serves me correctly, Texaco's colors where Red, White and Green so just so you know, if you where thinking of using automotive paints, Red is costly.

But let me know and i'll help you wherever I can.

Best regards

Ray

gearheadslife 02-13-2013 06:21 PM

h/d and lowe rent compressors that would be plenty big enough to spray the toy..
harbor frieght guns are always on sale,
I bought 2 for 24 bucks for both.. for when I paint small stuff..

Jathanw 02-13-2013 06:23 PM

Thanks. This is all new to me. I want it to be original so red and white. But is it straight red and white, or different shade? What would be best way to make it look like new? Automotive paint? My goal is to get it done and build a cabinet for it. Wood I know about, this metal work and painting I'm learning. I don't plan to go pro and start hot rodding so a decent gun from hf will do. I have 6gal compressor in my shed.

69 widetrack 02-13-2013 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jathanw (Post 1646124)
Thanks. This is all new to me. I want it to be original so red and white. But is it straight red and white, or different shade? What would be best way to make it look like new? Automotive paint? My goal is to get it done and build a cabinet for it. Wood I know about, this metal work and painting I'm learning. I don't plan to go pro and start hot rodding so a decent gun from hf will do. I have 6gal compressor in my shed.

For the size of job your doing a 6 gallon compressor would be fine and as Gearheadslife said, Harbor Freight can probably sell you a touch up gun (that's all you would need for toys for about $20 or less). As far as paint goes, the automotive paint jobbers should have paint codes for Texaco if you plan on going that route. This would be the premium way to go. As I mentioned automotive paint is expensive and if your planning on the exact color be prepared to pay. Pints of red singe stage (and a pint is much more than you would need but probably the smallest size any jobber would mix) could cost over $100...White would be about 1/2 of that...then you need hardner and reducer...You could use a straight enamel but I don't know of too many paint jobbers that still mix it.

This is the best way but unfortunately it's expensive.This is one of those cases that if you want automotive paint on your truck it may be cheaper to bring it to a body shop and have them paint it because they can mix a small amount of paint and you wouldn't need to buy more paint than you need or a paint gun...so unless you can find a place that sells enamel factory pack Texaco colors, it could get expensive.

If you go the automotive paint route, every paint jobber has an economy line of paint, PPG has Omni, Dupont has Nason, this may save you a bit of cash but still costly.

I'm in Canada but I can make a few calls locally to some jobber's I know and see if there is a more economical way to go and get back to you tomorrow. If there is I'm sure that it would be available to you where you live. Or perhaps someone on the forum has a solution.

Let me know if you want me to check it out and I'll get back to tomorrow.

Best regards
Ray

gearheadslife 02-13-2013 07:38 PM

reds gonna be costly anyways as it has gold in it..

here they'll mix a 1/2 pint..
if you can get the texaco red formula you ould mix your own krylon or rustolum as you'd have the amounts and colors added to the base red,

as seen as it mostlikely isn't going to be near other texaco items or sold.. 100% texaco matching colors most likely isn't needed.. as most won't spot the difference.. now if you are going to shows with it.. that be different..
also the white, isn't mostlikely straight white..
best way if going with auto type paint, have other things ready to paint when you spray the red and white, so you don't waste the rest of the product..
to give you an idea.. when I did my engine bay, I sprayed it, then sprayed my steel wheels , as I wasn't sure how much product I'd need, a pro can eyeball it, and know.. but running out midway through sucks..lol
when I spry my engine brackets, my bulkhead doors for the house will get sprayed at the same time.. and I'll waste zero product..

Rebuilder 02-14-2013 04:22 AM

How old is the toy? Is it a collectible?
It's probably too late now but if it's an antique you should of left the toy with it's original patina. A light coat of rust converter would have been the best option along with some gentle cleaning. The converter would have turned the soft red rust to a hard black oxide. Repainting an antique toy kills about half it's value. On the other hand if you'll be keeping it in the family then resale value is not an issue. I'm sure it'll look great after painting.
Would love to see overall pics!

Jathanw 02-14-2013 05:48 AM

Hey sorry for late reply. Wow I didnt know auto paint was that expensive. There is a body shop across from my work. I might try to get quote today. Im not worried about resale, I'm keeping it in the family.


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