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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Good advice as always Ray.

Cole, I don't know if you have ever replaced a roof panel on that body style Camaro, but if you haven't it is a bit of a trick to get off and on. There are several welds on the sides, in the drip rail area. I have found that the easiest way for me to replace the roof panel, is to take a cut off wheel (I personally like using a 4 1/2" grinder and cut off wheel for this step, but careful use of an air chisel would work also), and remove the bulk of the roof, cutting about 2" in from the outside edges. Once you get the bulk of the panel off it is easier (for me anyway) to get the edges where it is spot welded on the car because you are only dealing with small pieces instead of the whole panel. Again, personal preference, but I like to use a piece of sand paper to find the spot welds and grind the spot welded area only (to thin the metal) and then use a hammer and chisel to remove the remaining pieces. Some people prefer using a spot weld cutter to remove them, it is a personal preference thing. I have also found that when fitting the new roof panel, put one side in and then pry the other side in, to get it to "slide" down between the drip rails. Another way is to bend the drip rails down and after you get the new panel on, you can bend them back up.

Also be sure to check the braces under the roof panel when you have it off, we have found that the front brace tends to rust quite a bit as well.

I would also sand blast and epoxy the braces prior to putting the new panel on. Just a few thoughts that may be of help when you get started.


As for the doors, be sure to cut out far enough from the rust to get to good metal. If the hole is the size of a quarter, I would probably cut about a 3" square if the rust is confined to the quarter size described. This is for several reasons, but the main being to repair the rust correctly and for the long term.

Good luck

Kelly
Thank's Kelly, great advice i will need plenty of it. i really do appreciate everything.


Cole

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 07:58 PM
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Cole,

Those lower door corners is a common area to rust out since the water collects in the bottom of the door and runs to that corner. Here's a blog entry of the same repair to one of the doors on my 67 Mustang. Scroll half way down; I was doing a door skin installation too.

I took some cereal box cardboard and made a template of the offending area to remove, and then used the same template to cut the patch. I used my stud welder to put some studs on the patch so I could hold it in place; I've seen people just tape it in to place which seems a lot more practical. I had a random 3 inch steel pipe in the garage, so I used this to form the patch to the same contour of the door. Then I welded it in, ground down the welds, epoxied, and skimmed with fiberglass filler. Kind of embarassed to show my welds. It was a combination of some pretty big gaps to fill as well as it being a few years ago when I couldn't weld like I can now.

1967 Mustang Restoration: door skin and repair, part 2
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Cole,

Those lower door corners is a common area to rust out since the water collects in the bottom of the door and runs to that corner. Here's a blog entry of the same repair to one of the doors on my 67 Mustang. Scroll half way down; I was doing a door skin installation too.

I took some cereal box cardboard and made a template of the offending area to remove, and then used the same template to cut the patch. I used my stud welder to put some studs on the patch so I could hold it in place; I've seen people just tape it in to place which seems a lot more practical. I had a random 3 inch steel pipe in the garage, so I used this to form the patch to the same contour of the door. Then I welded it in, ground down the welds, epoxied, and skimmed with fiberglass filler. Kind of embarassed to show my welds. It was a combination of some pretty big gaps to fill as well as it being a few years ago when I couldn't weld like I can now.

1967 Mustang Restoration: door skin and repair, part 2
Thank's awesome work great info i can really use this info .


Cole
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:38 PM
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I am having trouble loading pics but i did manage to get one of the passenger side upper roof corner in my journal.


Cole
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:42 PM
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Here is the only pic i can get to upload at this time to show you how the roof looks.

Cole
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 06:52 AM
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Cole,heres one thing I've learned over the years...sure you can put a couple patches in the doors weve all done that..but its a better longer lasting repair to replace the WHOLE door bottom on any car...even if it looks like its in good shape replace it...its faster and easier plus theres a lot of other advantages to replacing it ,like say you replace the lower 3" when the outer skin is off you can get in there and get all the rust out of the inner structure and epoxy it Then start the actual repair work of the door bottom outter skin...even if it looks good how long will it be before that middle part starts rusting through??? The rust starts where you cant see it (in the lips) dont screw around, replace the whole bottom once you get it off and look close you'll be glad you did...I havent repaired a hole in a door bottom in over 25 years it always the whole bottom ...
You can make them yourself easy enough with a homemade brake or you can have them made at your local sheetmetal shop (somewhere that makes heating ducts) very ,very cheap....I've done a ton of rusted out door bottoms and its the ONLY way to go,even if its just a hole in front the size of a quarter the whole thing gets replaced...
Too bad your not still in Atlanta I'd drive over and help you.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 02:13 PM
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thank's (ODB) i mean DBM. what did you think about the one pic i got posted of the roof corner ? i got to get the camera out and take some pics , they won't upload from my phone for some reason.

Cole
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2013, 02:27 PM
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Yeah that roof needs a skin for sure, like the man said, the pinch welds at the drip rails can be a little tough But if you use a few pairs of welding clamp vice grips its a lot easier the thin clamp slips right in there...The last roof skin I did fit very nicely...once that old skin is off you'll find a good bit of the inner structure will need replacing mostly where in the center where the roof skin lip welds to the inner lip in the windshield...If your lucky you can just clean it up with some Ospho and weld the new skin on but I've never been that lucky I've always had to fabricate a lot of the inner structure if the roof was bad..its not hard though ...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-28-2013 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:46 PM
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Shame you don't have a good whole roof.. Cut that one off and weld on the new one.. Done deal..
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 05:14 PM
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Shame you don't have a good whole roof.. Cut that one off and weld on the new one.. Done deal..
Hummm!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Randy your on to something i think i know where i can get one.


Cole
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:18 AM
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Hummm!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Randy your on to something i think i know where i can get one.


Cole
Well THAT would definetly be the way to go then...
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:05 AM
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Cole.. It's just something to think about,,, I did a Newer Camaro with the hatch back glass, and was very easy to do,, Much easier then a chop top,,, This guy had t-tops and wanted them gone to race the car,, He wanted me to remove the top and weld on a hard top,,, Done deal...

Now the part that is the most important to do is,, Make ALL four cut's the same... Use poster board to do this.... Again... Just something to think about... Four welds and it's done..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 12:43 PM
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Never cut right through the pillars......what you want to do is drill out the welds and replace everything at the factory seams and joints...having a straight through cut in your pillars is bad even if your chopping something you should cut the inner and outter skin seperately and have staggered joints at least 2-3 inches apart...more if you can...heres how its done.And the best part is theres no measuring no worring if the glass is going to fit and its right everytime...
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-30-2013 at 12:58 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 04:10 PM
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The video is for fun it probably won't see much of this after i'm done with the restoration, another question just wondering if anyone can tell me if there is a better way to strip the jambs and stuff other then doing what i can with a sander and by hand ?
And thank's again everyone for the replies.


Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 07-30-2013 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:13 PM
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You can use a chemical stripper Cole, brush it on, let it sit for about 1/2 an hour and scrape it off, I use aircraft stripper made by marhyde if I correct, that'l make your life easier.

Ray
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