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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 03:17 PM
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I should add that it is a little caustic, so wear rubber gloves, you know, the kind sheperds use to tend their flock. It may take more than 1 application but it will get rid of the old paint. After the paints gone, wash the rest off with warm water, followed by Wax and grease remover and rough up the metal for Epoxy primer.

Ray

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 03:20 PM
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I should add that it is a little caustic, so wear rubber gloves, you know, the kind sheperds use to tend their flock. It may take more than 1 application but it will get rid of the old paint. After the paints gone, wash the rest off with warm water, followed by Wax and grease remover and rough up the metal for Epoxy primer.

Ray
Awesome sounds great thank's.


Cole
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 04:28 PM
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chem strip for me too and those little roloc gasket strippers on an angle die grinder work great tooyou can get them in different grits at HF pretty cheap .....jasco is my favorite stripper or aircraft stripper both are from Kleen-strip...30.00 a gal at lowes...55.00 at the bodyshop suppy store..I get mine at lowes
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:46 PM
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Never cut right through the pillars......what you want to do is drill out the welds and replace everything at the factory seams and joints...having a straight through cut in your pillars is bad even if your chopping something you should cut the inner and outter skin seperately and have staggered joints at least 2-3 inches apart...more if you can...heres how its done.And the best part is theres no measuring no worring if the glass is going to fit and its right everytime...
Been working find for years with a straite cut.... Never seen ONE BREAK APART YET...... I would say different if he was building a ship... Yes it's stronger with a off set cut... But not needed one bit..A lot of extra work for very little gain...
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:16 PM
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We always use an offset cut when we replace tops. Our reason being if you just straight cut it and don't remove the inner panel, you are only welding the outside layer together. If you remove the inner panel as DBM showed, you can weld the outside layer, then the inside layer, then weld the inner panel on. Is it necessary? probably not, but I sleep better at night knowing I welded everything, not just the outside.

JMO Kelly
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:20 PM
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What ever makes you sleep better I guess... Funny I was able to weld both of mine when I did it...

Thank god I don't lost sleep over things like that.
Good luck Cole...I guess I said enough.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:39 PM
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What ever makes you sleep better I guess... Funny I was able to weld both of mine when I did it...


Good luck Cole...
I'm not arguing with you, or saying that you are wrong. I'm just saying that most "A" and "B" pillars I've dealt with are double walled (late model cars/trucks, never had to replace the top on an older car, just skins and braces) and the slight gap between the two layers would prevent the inner layer from being welded without removing the inner most panel. A straight cut would also work just as well if you drilled the spot welds out of the inner panel and removed a 6" section prior to cutting the top off. It just gives you access to the second layer of metal so everything can be welded. I guess it is just different ways of doing things, like the never ending butt weld or lap weld argument.......



"Thank god I don't lost sleep over things like that."

Forgive me for being overly concerned about things I guess, but I always over repair and then double and triple check anything that could possibly be life saving or life ending in the event of a crash.


Kelly
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
Been working find for years with a straite cut.... Never seen ONE BREAK APART YET...... I would say different if he was building a ship... Yes it's stronger with a off set cut... But not needed one bit..A lot of extra work for very little gain...
Randy ,I've never seen a boat sink but they do,thats for sure.
I'm a rebuilder.that means I the state of Ga says I'm qualified to buy total wreaks and rebuild them for resale....sometimes Totaled only means the damage exceeds the value of the car so many times we replace roofs that trees fall on or even hail damage for that matter...Once the ins has totaled a car it goes to the auction where we bid on it ...When we repair it we have to follow strict guidelines so they are structurely safe if they ever get in another accident ..we must take pics and document all repairs and cant paint anything untill its inspected and the state puts its stamp of approval on it...Most guys will think heck its only a dang roof I'll just whack it off and throw another one on allit does is keep me dry ...well that used to be true up to the 60's when cars had full frames but they came out with these unibodies and the roof is actually part of a structure and does a lot so it needs to be do right and safe. and if you were to think about it a little you'd realize using the factory seams IS ALWAYS the best way tp do ANY repair even on a costetic 1/4 panel......dont take offense i've done it that way everybody has and most pros wont ever know if they dont deal with heavy collision work THIS is the right way, if an inspector ever saw a repair like straight through cuts on a pillar that car would fail and the shop flagged. The only other way to find out its the wrong way to splice is if the customer got in an accident and it failed then you'd be open to legal action.....But this is easier anyway so why not do it right...Even back in the old days when we whacked a roof off straight through we would sleeve it on the inside and THAT was a stronger repair than original but the arguement is thats why we wont accept it ,cars are designed to bend in certain spots and if you make any spot stronger it wont absorb an impact properly...
Tell the truth every time you cut a roof the way you do how much extra time do you spend measuring out and fitting thefront and rear glass...then you sweat the gaps when you roll up the side windows ...you wouldnt dream of not checking all this before you started welding would you....well in those pics I didnt have to measure anything or check the fit of the windows at all.
and I wouldnt have had to use any bondo at all if they gave me a full roof so I could use the factory seam thats covered with a molding the idiots at the yard cut the roof short so they could save the 1/4...that turned a 5hr job into 15hrs....if the inner pillars have some rot you can splice them but the inner pillar and the outter pillar splices have to be a minimum of 2" apart (staggered) brick layers have known this was the best way centuries ago thats way bricks never have straight through seams they are always staggered....its really not a big deal with a full frame car but a camaro is a unibody.and the roof is part of the whole structure
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:20 AM
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What ever makes you sleep better I guess... Funny I was able to weld both of mine when I did it...

Thank god I don't lost sleep over things like that.
Good luck Cole...I guess I said enough.
what are you going to do when you have three layers leave the middle un welded??? Think about this for a min... its faster and easier anyway, the right way always is...
Look i've seen guys cut a damaged 1/4 in half and just replace the damaged half putting a splice in it then argue its easier and faster until I replace a full 1/4 right in front of them in a fraction of the time .my 1/4 had no bondo time because there was no bondo in it,it was welded where the factory welded it it was cheaper because no bondo sandpaper primer...and it looked better because it was completely original no sand scratches swelling etc... almost anybody can see a lump in a spliced 1/4...some time people work three times as hard tring to do something the EZ way and end up with crap..expensive crap but crap none the less...
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:23 AM
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Randy ,I've never seen a boat sink but they do,thats for sure.
I'm a rebuilder.that means I the state of Ga says I'm qualified to buy total wreaks and rebuild them for resale....sometimes Totaled only means the damage exceeds the value of the car so many times we replace roofs that trees fall on or even hail damage for that matter...Once the ins has totaled a car it goes to the auction where we bid on it ...When we repair it we have to follow strict guidelines so they are structurely safe if they ever get in another accident ..we must take pics and document all repairs and cant paint anything untill its inspected and the state puts its stamp of approval on it...Most guys will think heck its only a dang roof I'll just whack it off and throw another one on allit does is keep me dry ...well that used to be true up to the 60's when cars had full frames but they came out with these unibodies and the roof is actually part of a structure and does a lot so it needs to be do right and safe. and if you were to think about it a little you'd realize using the factory seams IS ALWAYS the best way tp do ANY repair even on a costetic 1/4 panel......dont take offense i've done it that way everybody has and most pros wont ever know if they dont deal with heavy collision work THIS is the right way, if an inspector ever saw a repair like straight through cuts on a pillar that car would fail and the shop flagged. The only other way to find out its the wrong way to splice is if the customer got in an accident and it failed then you'd be open to legal action.....But this is easier anyway so why not do it right...Even back in the old days when we whacked a roof off straight through we would sleeve it on the inside and THAT was a stronger repair than original but the arguement is thats why we wont accept it ,cars are designed to bend in certain spots and if you make any spot stronger it wont absorb an impact properly...
Tell the truth every time you cut a roof the way you do how much extra time do you spend measuring out and fitting thefront and rear glass...then you sweat the gaps when you roll up the side windows ...you wouldnt dream of not checking all this before you started welding would you....well in those pics I didnt have to measure anything or check the fit of the windows at all.
and I wouldnt have had to use any bondo at all if they gave me a full roof so I could use the factory seam thats covered with a molding the idiots at the yard cut the roof short so they could save the 1/4...that turned a 5hr job into 15hrs....if the inner pillars have some rot you can splice them but the inner pillar and the outter pillar splices have to be a minimum of 2" apart (staggered) brick layers have known this was the best way centuries ago thats way bricks never have straight through seams they are always staggered....its really not a big deal with a full frame car but a camaro is a unibody.and the roof is part of the whole structure
Well since he's NOT running a collision repair shop here.. I think his rules can be a little different then your's... We are talking a hobby in his back yard,,,, Now if he can't weld a roof back on and keep it salf,, He shouldn't be doing it in the first place...

As far as being safe,,, If you know how to weld right in the first place,, That repair can be made ANYWHERE'S you want it...

If he is going to go through all that trouble to do it your way... Then He** he need's to just go back to changing the roof skin,,

I will say this much.. A lot of people in this Hobby don't realise just how strong just a Half Inch of weld is....(welded right)

Not pointing at anyone here... But if you doing things on a car that is over kill... That only means YOU don't trust your work...

As far as being able to weld it the way I said too... Been done many times in the roof's are still on the cars... NO ONE GOT KILLED,,, As far as you doing it the way you do it..I'm sure you do have to follow the rules,, In your back yard, I don't think so...


I really don't think he will have someone waiting to sign off on it when he's done..


Again Cole... Do what you feel you need to... Sorry about all this crap ON YOUR THREAD.. You know how to find me.. I'm out of this one..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:26 AM
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what are you going to do when you have three layers leave the middle un welded??? Think about this for a min... its faster and easier anyway, the right way always is...
Look i've seen guys cut a damaged 1/4 in half and just replace the damaged half putting a splice in it then argue its easier and faster until I replace a full 1/4 right in front of them in a fraction of the time .my 1/4 had no bondo time because there was no bondo in it,it was welded where the factory welded it it was cheaper because no bondo sandpaper primer...and it looked better because it was completely original no sand scratches swelling etc... almost anybody can see a lump in a spliced 1/4...some time people work three times as hard tring to do something the EZ way and end up with crap..expensive crap but crap none the less...
I didn't go into detail on just how easy it is.,, But I weld all of mine.. Inside in outside.... If you been doing this as long as you said.. You should already know what I'm getting at..Bye..
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:14 AM
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Randy, If you cut a frame, do you straight cut it and butt weld it with no plating or gusseting?

Kelly
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:16 AM
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Randy, If you cut a frame, do you straight cut it and butt weld it with no plating or gusseting?

Kelly

Many times.. I trust my welds enough not to worry about that..
Try again..

Well.. Let me said this... I been butt welding butt's for years with none braking apart yet,,, BUT !!!! Since I been posting here and EVERYONE think's they will fall apart,,, I did start putting gusset's and plating to stop ALL the CRYING ABOUT IT..
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:21 AM
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Many times.. I trust my welds enough not to worry about that..
Try again..

I'm glad you have that much confidence in your abilities. Even the manufacturers don't do that. Each to his own.

Back to the OP question, replacing the whole top (if you can find one that is in good shape), would be the way to go if you have the knowledge of how to do it. Apparently we all have differing opinions on how it should be done, but it is your car so do whatever you feel safe with your family riding in. If you can't find a replacement top, then all of the pieces are available to repair yours, it would just result in a little more work on your part to change the braces if needed and the top skin. Best of luck with the project. I apologize for high jacking your thread.

Kelly
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